KSC Glock 18C Problem

[Vassili_Zaitsev]

i've got 2 problems with this gun. after a year of it laying in a gun case, i took it out today to use. it has the metal slide and barrel and the hi-flow valve and spring upgrades...the works. it worked fine before i put it in the case, but after i lubed up everything today and started shooting, the gun started having trouble with cycling.

it would shoot a couple of rounds and then the trigger won't reset to the firing position...it would get stuck at the "depressed" stage. i have to manually cock the slide back, let the 6mm round in the chamber fall out and try again. this seems to solve it most of the time, but still, what's going on?

also, a peice of small plastic flew out of the slide during one shot after the recoil and now, it keeps flying out after sustained shooting. after this, the selector switch started sticking and i have problems moving it unless the slide is completey slid back.

it looks like the switch has somehow come out of the socket a little bit and not engaging properly. the piece that flys out is #258 in the diagram (middle of the right hand side in the pic). what can i do???

http://home.cogeco.ca/~zaitsev/glockpartslist.gif

[Vassili_Zaitsev]

was just field stripping and inspecting and it looks like the guy who upgraded my gun forgot to part 18, the screw that screws up into the middle of the back slide. is there a good substitute for this? is this really gonna help me fix my problem?

[Daiviet]

my glock is actually missing the same screw too, i dont find that it hinders performance at all. Same thing with the fire selector switch being a bit loose, thats just normal and happens with the 18c. however, if part #258 is flying out, thats not a good thing. Slide out the rear sight, and underneath there should be 2 holes (1 with your missing part 18 screw) and a small one on the left. There should be a small screw there that you tighten with a tiny allen key, and thats what keeps part #258 in place. If thats missing, uh, i highly suggest you get a new one right away. hope this helps.

[mirage13]

(Hello all, I have been away for quite some time!)

...Speaking of loose selector switches, I'm praying that this is the reason as to why this 23F isn't firing full-auto...? Is this possible?

Regardless, how does one properly go about snugging up said switch?

Thanks in advance!

[Qlong]

If your selector lever is being bumped back to the 'safe' position, then yes, depress the lever alignment pin, which is part #258 of THIS MANUAL and then tighten the selector set screw. You might have to play around with this.

[mirage13]

Here... I don't know what to do, and don't want to take this thing apart without knowing what, why and how.

If you could take 3 mins and watch the video, it explains everything.
[See the underside of the slide at the 2 min mark.]

YouTube - g23f prob

DESCRIPTION:
Just purchased this KSC G23F from member "Master Blaster"
Supposedly it "works perfect, no problems," however I have noticed otherwise...

1 - full auto setting doesnt work at all
2 - safety doesn't work consistantly (more times than not, it will fire a shot...)
3 - doesn't properly field strip (back end of slide gets stuck on the hammer piece (the piece that looks like a hammer on the back of a real gun, except on the glock it's internal) if you want to get the slide off, u gotta use a thin object (eyeglasses screwdriver for instance) to press down on the internal hammer piece to allow the back piece of the slide to pass over and be removed)

I don't really care about the other problems, but how do i get full auto working??

thanks in advance to anyone with anything helpful to say,

chris

[Daiviet]

its quite possible that a small piece inside the blowback unit may have been damaged, not causing the selector bar to be pushed down all the way. when you move the selector switch and look underneath, you'll see a piece move up and down, maybe its not moving down enough?

that might be what's affecting the safety as well.

for the field strip, i think its normal, happened on my glock 18c, i've seen numerous video reviews where people need to push it down just a tad in order to move the slide off.

[lokisama]

Difficult to know exactly what the problem is with that gun. I've had 3 of these come by me in the past all with different problems. That gun's mechanics are very finicky and fragile when used in full auto mode constantly.

I do have parts 92, 267, 266, 263 left over if you find them to be a problem in your case. Let me know.

[mirage13]

http://www.airsplat.com/Manuals/GP-KSC-G18C-MET-1.jpg - Exploded diagram in reference

I removed parts 260, 261 and 262 so that part 92 doesn't get pushed down.

Test firing resulted in a quick 3 shot burst, and then a blowback chamber jam. :banghead:

After unjamming piece 22, I test fired it again, resulting in one shot and the same jam.

Re-removed blowback assembly, and pulled part 22 (which brings part 23 [x2] with it).
Both 23's are a little bent up, and one end has been cut off, although it's still long enough... Are the condition of these springs very important?

Anyways, when I pulled 22, I notcied that part 27 was coming loose from the brass nub on part 250. I cleaned the oil off, and superglued 27 back to 250, and reinstalled.

Test firing resulted in a jam the first shot... (when I removed the assmebly again, part 27 was still snuggly attatched to part 250..., so I can't figure out what's jamming it..., maybe the mis-shapen springs (23 x2)...?)

I have a replacement blowback assembly (part 250 and it's connecting pieces, ie. part 27, 253, etc) however part 253 is a completely different shape than the one that's in the gun...,

Fits on lower frame:
Doesn't fit on lower frame:

when I try to use it instead, the slide refuses to go onto the frame, as the part 253 is sticking too far out, so much that it interferes with part 265 when trying to put the slide on the frame... (impossible to put on without breaking one of the two pieces...) What's the deal with this? (I don't know what model gun the replaceent assembly is from, but I'm pretty sure that the 18c/23f and 26c are all internally identical, which is why I'm so confused by the differing parts...)

Additionally, with the slide removed, I seem to get inconsistant action when "manually" (with my fingers) using the hammer assembly. What I mean by this:

If I cock part 263, push down part 81 and then push forward part 265, the hammer assembly is "ready to fire." If I press and hold the trigger, part 92 pushes on part 268, which releases the hammer. Here is where the inconsistancies begin:
If I recock 263 and push down 81, with the trigger still pulled, when I push forward on 265, -sometimes, randomly-, part 263 swings forward again (as it should), but other times, for some reason, part 92 slips off (under) part 268, meaning that 268 is being held down by 92, requiring me to release the trigger, )which pulls part 92 out from under 268, allowing it to pop back up, so when the trigger is puled again, 92 makes contact with 268, and pushes it back, allowing the hammer to swing again.

I'm thinking about removing the pin in the assembly (250) which holds parts 253, 254 and 251, and swapping those three parts into the replacement assembly in hopes of preventing the blowback chamber jams wich are interfereing with my problem determination of the lack of full auto mode...

- Can anyone give some insight into why my two blowback assmbleys feature different part 253's?
- Why is part 92 slipping underneith of part 268, despite the removal of the pieces that enforce semi-auto?
- And what are the common causes of blowback chamber jams in ksc glocks?

Thanks for reading,
Chris

[mirage13]

I'll answer my own questions:

In regards to the two different part 253's, the one that doesn't fit is completely bent out of shape, plain and simple.

I've confirmed that the blowback chamber jams are caused by the internal hammer-like piece (which I already mentioned, is sticking up about a millimeter too high) getting caught on the back end of the plastic blowback chamber. This problem is solved simply by adding an enhanced recoil spring, which gives it the added strength required to pull the back end of the chamber over and past the obtrusive hammer piece... (which is where the jam occurs). However, this is not the proper solution to this problem, as the hammer will eventually wear through the the cheap plastic chamber.

The problem of the hammer sitting too high when cocked is caused by wear on the part of the hammer where the left sear (part 266) makes contact.

I'm sure this is caused by excessive use of full auto (or just lots and lots of shooting on semi), in conjunction with the greatly increased tension of the enhanced hammer spring (which the internal pieces where not engineered to withstand).

That problem aside, the reason that full-auto doesn't work is simple enough as well: Ridiculous amounts of wear on the part of the right sear that makes contact with the trigger bar.

When a shot is fired, the impact of the slide blowing back vibrates the internals just slightly, which is enough to cause the trigger bar to slip underneeth the right sear, (which is exactly what parts 260, 261 & 262 [which I removed] are there to do: enforce semi-automatic function).

So it seems these problems are solved by replacing the hammer and the right sear, but I'm too broke to spend the money and not exactly excited about having to dive back into the inner workings of the auto-glock hammer assembly (which I think I already mentioned, is an absolute fucking nightmare in my opinion).

I'm considering trying to bend the part of the trigger bar the contacts the sear. Just a little bit upwards and to the inside of the gun, so that it will make contact with the part of the sear that is less worn, and hopefully be able to stay latched when firing shots.