help identifying parts in my VSR 10

-Dan- · September 20th, 2006, 16:07

Hello all

I bought a second hand vsr-10 that had been slighty upgraded, the person who sold it me had no idea what upgrades it has had, So tonight i plucked up the courage and opened it up for the first time.

The first thing i noticed was the spring guide was white plastic, im guessing this is stock?

i couldnt open the cylinder, But i managed to pull the piston back a little way, after the metal bit the piston is RED in colour. Is this an upgraded piston, As i thought that the stock piston was white all over?

Im pretty sure the cylinder and cylinder head are both stock, There both bright silver in colour and the cylinder didnt feel particularly strong?

Next i wanted to cheek the sears.

the piston sear was dark black in colour, with little wear marks at all. is this upgraded?

the trigger sear was grey/silver in colour and didnt look as good quality as the piston sear. is this upgraded?

the spring guide stopper looked like the same metal as the trigger sear, grey/silver in colour. is this upgraded?

One other question. To removed the cylinder head, Do i just need to use a pair of needle nose pliers, put them in the two holes in the cylinder head and untwist anti clockwise? I did try this, but it would not budge at all.
Im guessing the pin in the cylinder head has already been drilled out, as it has an uggraded spring in alredy.

Also what are the minimal parts needed to run a 170sp spring. Im hoping just the piston sear, trigger sear, and high pressure piston. Will this be ok?

Cheers.

bean · September 20th, 2006, 16:55

A 170 is far over legal limits int he uk. The spring guide is stock, if the piston is red its upgraded, the cylinder head is upgraded, the cylinder is stock, the black sear is upgraded and the others are stock.

Although it is above legal limits in your country i will explain anyways.
Zero trigger and piston set
the spring
cylinder head and teflon cylinder
spring guide
might want the upgraded bolt handle because its easier to pull.

tsuru · September 20th, 2006, 17:24

To try and shed some more light on your questions:
A red piston sounds like a Laylax/PSS10 piston
A black piston sear sounds like a Laylax/PSS10 or a PDI. The way to tell the difference is to look at the small pin that sticks out of the sear. If it's chrome coloured then it's a PDI. If not you have a PSS10.
If you have two holes in the piston head then you don't have a stock one. If it's a chrome colour then I believe it should be a Laylax/PSS10 as well.
Bean's recommendations are bang on although if you want to tinker some more with the gun you could just buy a trigger sear, spring guide stopper and spring guide instead of the zero trigger since you seem to have an upgraded piston and piston sear already. It will probably end up being cheaper although you will probably run into more problems getting it all to work.
There are a couple of guide for getting the piston head out from the cylinder. The method I've always used was to take a 2.5mm Allen key. Place the short end in one of the holes in the cylinder head and unscrew the cylinder head out by pushing the key against the nozzle. You can destroy your cylinder head using this method but I haven't done any serious damage to my parts using this method. The other method I've seen people use is to wrap the nozzle in electrical tape and then use pliers to turn the piston head to extract.

-Dan- · September 20th, 2006, 17:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by bean

A 170 is far over legal limits int he uk. The spring guide is stock, if the piston is red its upgraded, the cylinder head is upgraded, the cylinder is stock, the black sear is upgraded and the others are stock.

Although it is above legal limits in your country i will explain anyways.
Zero trigger and piston set
the spring
cylinder head and teflon cylinder
spring guide
might want the upgraded bolt handle because its easier to pull.

As i believe single action bolt rifles are allowed up to 500 FPS with .25 BB's, otherwise UK retailers would not be allowed to sell them, right?

Are those upgrades absolutely necessary, or are you just specifying for best performance?

Im on a budget, so need bare minimum.

cheers tsuru your help is much appreciated

bean · September 20th, 2006, 17:50

Well a 170 will get you over 500fps for one. And i believe all rifles have an energy limit do they not? And for a 170 those were pretty much your only options that will get you around 600 fps if memory serves me right.

-Dan- · September 21st, 2006, 12:33

I do agree, Sorry for confusion, I was under the impression that a 170sp spring would give 500FPS using .25 BB's.
thanks for your help.

Because i will only be using the gun for half a day every other week, I am considering just getting a new trigger sear and spring. Then just replacing any parts that break when they do. Is this enough, and how many shots roughly will i get from it. I know its a bit of a "how longs a bit of string question" but all advice is much appreciated

cheers.

tsuru · September 21st, 2006, 15:28

I believe the regulation for the UK is 500FPS w/ 0.20g instead of 0.25g but I digress.
With the upgraded trigger sear, piston sear (you already have the piston sear as discussed above) and cylinder you should be OK for a while. I worry a bit about the spring guide stopper and to a lesser extent the spring guide itself but if either of these parts break it shouldn't affect any other parts. (Meaning you shouldn't loose anything important if they do go.)
The cylinder head (which I think you have an upgraded already) and cylinder are not strictly necessary upgrades. The Teflon cylinder suggested by Bean will make the bolt pull easier although you could just graphite lube the interior cylinder retaining rings to get a similar effect for much less money. The bolt handle is (from what I've heard) a good idea for the 170 spring although again, it's not as if anything major will be affected (except maybe your knuckles :-D ) if the bolt handle decides to go.

bean · September 21st, 2006, 16:08

The only reason the teflon cylinder is recomended for the 170sp is it is slightly stronger. Most people dont buy it for the bolt pull its just built better over the normal one for a high speed system

-Dan- · September 25th, 2006, 16:18

Cheers for all your help guys, ive ordered the necessary parts for the upgrade.

Just another question, i was taking a look at the hop up unit and barrel. The barrel is silver in colour, Is this an upgraded barrel, As i thought stock barrels were made from brass?

Again many thanks.

bean · September 25th, 2006, 16:22

My stock barrel is a dull grey/silver color. The upgraded ones are very shiny

tsuru · September 25th, 2006, 17:18

If your rifle is the G-Spec version the stock barrel will indeed be brass. If your rifle is the Pro Sniper / Real Shock (no silencer w/ iron sights) then the stock barrel will be made of aluminum. The easiest way to tell the difference between stock barrels and the aftermarket upgraded ones is the muzzle end of the barrel. The stock barrels have little to no bevel on them whereas the upgraded ones have a very pronounced bevelled edge on them.

Stock on the left, upgraded on the right. (Picture source: 888's VSR-10 guide)

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September 20th, 2006, 16:07	#1
-Dan- Trader rating Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: UK	help identifying parts in my VSR 10 Hello all I bought a second hand vsr-10 that had been slighty upgraded, the person who sold it me had no idea what upgrades it has had, So tonight i plucked up the courage and opened it up for the first time. The first thing i noticed was the spring guide was white plastic, im guessing this is stock? i couldnt open the cylinder, But i managed to pull the piston back a little way, after the metal bit the piston is RED in colour. Is this an upgraded piston, As i thought that the stock piston was white all over? Im pretty sure the cylinder and cylinder head are both stock, There both bright silver in colour and the cylinder didnt feel particularly strong? Next i wanted to cheek the sears. the piston sear was dark black in colour, with little wear marks at all. is this upgraded? the trigger sear was grey/silver in colour and didnt look as good quality as the piston sear. is this upgraded? the spring guide stopper looked like the same metal as the trigger sear, grey/silver in colour. is this upgraded? One other question. To removed the cylinder head, Do i just need to use a pair of needle nose pliers, put them in the two holes in the cylinder head and untwist anti clockwise? I did try this, but it would not budge at all. Im guessing the pin in the cylinder head has already been drilled out, as it has an uggraded spring in alredy. Also what are the minimal parts needed to run a 170sp spring. Im hoping just the piston sear, trigger sear, and high pressure piston. Will this be ok? Cheers.

September 20th, 2006, 16:55	#2
bean Administrator Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2004	A 170 is far over legal limits int he uk. The spring guide is stock, if the piston is red its upgraded, the cylinder head is upgraded, the cylinder is stock, the black sear is upgraded and the others are stock. Although it is above legal limits in your country i will explain anyways. Zero trigger and piston set the spring cylinder head and teflon cylinder spring guide might want the upgraded bolt handle because its easier to pull.

September 20th, 2006, 17:24	#3
tsuru Trader rating Join Date: May 2004 Location: Winnipeg, MB	To try and shed some more light on your questions: A red piston sounds like a Laylax/PSS10 piston A black piston sear sounds like a Laylax/PSS10 or a PDI. The way to tell the difference is to look at the small pin that sticks out of the sear. If it's chrome coloured then it's a PDI. If not you have a PSS10. If you have two holes in the piston head then you don't have a stock one. If it's a chrome colour then I believe it should be a Laylax/PSS10 as well. Bean's recommendations are bang on although if you want to tinker some more with the gun you could just buy a trigger sear, spring guide stopper and spring guide instead of the zero trigger since you seem to have an upgraded piston and piston sear already. It will probably end up being cheaper although you will probably run into more problems getting it all to work. There are a couple of guide for getting the piston head out from the cylinder. The method I've always used was to take a 2.5mm Allen key. Place the short end in one of the holes in the cylinder head and unscrew the cylinder head out by pushing the key against the nozzle. You can destroy your cylinder head using this method but I haven't done any serious damage to my parts using this method. The other method I've seen people use is to wrap the nozzle in electrical tape and then use pliers to turn the piston head to extract.

September 20th, 2006, 17:50	#5
bean Administrator Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2004	Well a 170 will get you over 500fps for one. And i believe all rifles have an energy limit do they not? And for a 170 those were pretty much your only options that will get you around 600 fps if memory serves me right.

September 21st, 2006, 12:33	#6
-Dan- Trader rating Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: UK	I do agree, Sorry for confusion, I was under the impression that a 170sp spring would give 500FPS using .25 BB's. thanks for your help. Because i will only be using the gun for half a day every other week, I am considering just getting a new trigger sear and spring. Then just replacing any parts that break when they do. Is this enough, and how many shots roughly will i get from it. I know its a bit of a "how longs a bit of string question" but all advice is much appreciated cheers.

September 21st, 2006, 15:28	#7
tsuru Trader rating Join Date: May 2004 Location: Winnipeg, MB	I believe the regulation for the UK is 500FPS w/ 0.20g instead of 0.25g but I digress. With the upgraded trigger sear, piston sear (you already have the piston sear as discussed above) and cylinder you should be OK for a while. I worry a bit about the spring guide stopper and to a lesser extent the spring guide itself but if either of these parts break it shouldn't affect any other parts. (Meaning you shouldn't loose anything important if they do go.) The cylinder head (which I think you have an upgraded already) and cylinder are not strictly necessary upgrades. The Teflon cylinder suggested by Bean will make the bolt pull easier although you could just graphite lube the interior cylinder retaining rings to get a similar effect for much less money. The bolt handle is (from what I've heard) a good idea for the 170 spring although again, it's not as if anything major will be affected (except maybe your knuckles :-D ) if the bolt handle decides to go.

September 21st, 2006, 16:08	#8
bean Administrator Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2004	The only reason the teflon cylinder is recomended for the 170sp is it is slightly stronger. Most people dont buy it for the bolt pull its just built better over the normal one for a high speed system

September 25th, 2006, 16:18	#9
-Dan- Trader rating Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: UK	Cheers for all your help guys, ive ordered the necessary parts for the upgrade. Just another question, i was taking a look at the hop up unit and barrel. The barrel is silver in colour, Is this an upgraded barrel, As i thought stock barrels were made from brass? Again many thanks.

September 25th, 2006, 16:22	#10
bean Administrator Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2004	My stock barrel is a dull grey/silver color. The upgraded ones are very shiny

September 25th, 2006, 17:18	#11
tsuru Trader rating Join Date: May 2004 Location: Winnipeg, MB	If your rifle is the G-Spec version the stock barrel will indeed be brass. If your rifle is the Pro Sniper / Real Shock (no silencer w/ iron sights) then the stock barrel will be made of aluminum. The easiest way to tell the difference between stock barrels and the aftermarket upgraded ones is the muzzle end of the barrel. The stock barrels have little to no bevel on them whereas the upgraded ones have a very pronounced bevelled edge on them. Stock on the left, upgraded on the right. (Picture source: 888's VSR-10 guide)

help identifying parts in my VSR 10

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