M3 Shell Carrier?

baker_Jeff · January 7th, 2009, 01:02

I use this sling with my S34P...

http://capitalairsoft.ca/store/index...products_id=89

Styrak · January 7th, 2009, 15:49

I was looking at one of these at the local store, but it was for a Winchester or something. Looked very similar. Do you think it would matter?

I mean, on a real one you would need the right mounting points but if you're just going to velcro it or epoxy it on, does it matter what version you get?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roughneck

I have a real steel one for a Benelli M3 on my TM M3. It attatches to the real shotgun by removing a pin from the reciever and replacing it with the one that comes with the saddle. This does NOT work for the airsoft version, I used epoxy to mount mine.. holds 6 shells and is on there solid. Any hunting store should have them for about $25.

Roughneck · January 7th, 2009, 16:05

From pictures that I see, I'd assume that the recievers are all roughly the same size on each shotgun.. like you said.. the body pins would be the difference. After thinking about it, I think you'd be safe with the Remington one.

Styrak · January 7th, 2009, 21:54

Well I went to the outdoor store today and I ended up buying a TacStar side saddle.
First pic is what it looks like, probably not much different than your except for mount/pin points.

The only thing is, its not for a Benelli (Winchester) so it interferes where I circled in red with the pistol grip. This causes the rest of it to be titlted slight to the side and does not contact the receiver. I'll have to cut somewhere close to the yellow line so that I can epoxy/JB Weld it, which isn't a problem cause that part doesn't do anything for airsoft purposes.

Nice part is that it hooks into edge of the shell compartment and the curved edge on the top contacts the receiver without issue! I just hope (and I think it is) that the metal slab I have to cut is aluminum or something. Hacksaw to the rescue!

Oh, and the shells are WAY too tight, not just a little like you said? Any techniques for removing material inside the holders?

Roughneck · January 7th, 2009, 22:15

Ah.. I forgot that you're using the TM original pistol grip.. the saddle will over lap that one. I have the G&P stock on mine which comes with a new pistol grip.. it doesnt flair out like the TM one does. You can cut that off with a saw.. but you'll want to epoxy the saddle to that backing plate as it keeps everything flat.. without it, the saddle will bend and you'll have a hard time getting shells in and out.. even after modding it.

As for the shells being tight, you'll have to use a file or dremel to open up the holes a bit. As I stated before, you'll want to remove a bit of the lips to open the gap in the holes (guestamate about 2-3mm on each side of the gap, keep testing the shells as you go). If you look at my pic, you'll see how much material I've cut out.

Styrak · January 7th, 2009, 22:23

I'll want to epoxy the shell holder part to the metal slab? You sure? It seems pretty damn solid with the 6 screws.
And is cutting off the lips/fingers the only thing you did, or you do have to file inside as well?

Roughneck · January 7th, 2009, 22:30

If you're cutting the back end off of the plate and saddle so it doesnt overlap the flair on the pistol grip.. you'll be removing two of the screws.. this is the only reason I mention using epoxy there.

I filed inside the shell holders as well, use a fine grid sandpaper to smooth everything out when you're done.. or it'll tear the stickers off the shells.. which isnt something that I really worry about.. but you might.

PS.. sorry about being pretty foggy on all this.. it's been 6 or 7 months since I went thought it.

EDIT: You're losing only one screw hole.. never mind the epoxy part.. I just took a closer look at the picture.

Styrak · January 7th, 2009, 22:31

Oh no man, it's all good information.

And nooooooo, I'd just be cutting at the yellow line, all screws would be intact as you can see

Roughneck · January 7th, 2009, 22:39

Bottom line, the whole thing is trial and error.. just keep checking with a shell.

Styrak · January 7th, 2009, 22:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roughneck

EDIT: You're losing only one screw hole.. never mind the epoxy part.. I just took a closer look at the picture.

Which is only used on the real steel, so I'm good

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January 7th, 2009, 01:02	#16
baker_Jeff Trader rating Join Date: May 2008 Location: Edmonton, AB	I use this sling with my S34P... http://capitalairsoft.ca/store/index...products_id=89 __________________ Founder of Capital Airsoft in Edmonton Out of the Game 04/22/16

January 7th, 2009, 16:05	#18
Roughneck used to be Spencer aka Sue Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Halifax, NS	From pictures that I see, I'd assume that the recievers are all roughly the same size on each shotgun.. like you said.. the body pins would be the difference. After thinking about it, I think you'd be safe with the Remington one. __________________ Tpr. Spencer, DF RCD C Sqn - CFB Gagetown Please save for me, some gallantry That will echo when I'm gone

January 7th, 2009, 21:54	#19
Styrak Trader rating Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Saskatoon, SK	Well I went to the outdoor store today and I ended up buying a TacStar side saddle. First pic is what it looks like, probably not much different than your except for mount/pin points. The only thing is, its not for a Benelli (Winchester) so it interferes where I circled in red with the pistol grip. This causes the rest of it to be titlted slight to the side and does not contact the receiver. I'll have to cut somewhere close to the yellow line so that I can epoxy/JB Weld it, which isn't a problem cause that part doesn't do anything for airsoft purposes. Nice part is that it hooks into edge of the shell compartment and the curved edge on the top contacts the receiver without issue! I just hope (and I think it is) that the metal slab I have to cut is aluminum or something. Hacksaw to the rescue! Oh, and the shells are WAY too tight, not just a little like you said? Any techniques for removing material inside the holders? __________________ Airsoft Sales and Repair/Upgrade Services Last edited by Styrak; January 7th, 2009 at 22:03..

January 7th, 2009, 22:15	#20
Roughneck used to be Spencer aka Sue Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Halifax, NS	Ah.. I forgot that you're using the TM original pistol grip.. the saddle will over lap that one. I have the G&P stock on mine which comes with a new pistol grip.. it doesnt flair out like the TM one does. You can cut that off with a saw.. but you'll want to epoxy the saddle to that backing plate as it keeps everything flat.. without it, the saddle will bend and you'll have a hard time getting shells in and out.. even after modding it. As for the shells being tight, you'll have to use a file or dremel to open up the holes a bit. As I stated before, you'll want to remove a bit of the lips to open the gap in the holes (guestamate about 2-3mm on each side of the gap, keep testing the shells as you go). If you look at my pic, you'll see how much material I've cut out. __________________ Tpr. Spencer, DF RCD C Sqn - CFB Gagetown Please save for me, some gallantry That will echo when I'm gone

January 7th, 2009, 22:23	#21
Styrak Trader rating Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Saskatoon, SK	I'll want to epoxy the shell holder part to the metal slab? You sure? It seems pretty damn solid with the 6 screws. And is cutting off the lips/fingers the only thing you did, or you do have to file inside as well? __________________ Airsoft Sales and Repair/Upgrade Services

January 7th, 2009, 22:30	#22
Roughneck used to be Spencer aka Sue Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Halifax, NS	If you're cutting the back end off of the plate and saddle so it doesnt overlap the flair on the pistol grip.. you'll be removing two of the screws.. this is the only reason I mention using epoxy there. I filed inside the shell holders as well, use a fine grid sandpaper to smooth everything out when you're done.. or it'll tear the stickers off the shells.. which isnt something that I really worry about.. but you might. PS.. sorry about being pretty foggy on all this.. it's been 6 or 7 months since I went thought it. EDIT: You're losing only one screw hole.. never mind the epoxy part.. I just took a closer look at the picture. __________________ Tpr. Spencer, DF RCD C Sqn - CFB Gagetown Please save for me, some gallantry That will echo when I'm gone

January 7th, 2009, 22:31	#23
Styrak Trader rating Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Saskatoon, SK	Oh no man, it's all good information. And nooooooo, I'd just be cutting at the yellow line, all screws would be intact as you can see __________________ Airsoft Sales and Repair/Upgrade Services

January 7th, 2009, 22:39	#24
Roughneck used to be Spencer aka Sue Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Halifax, NS	Bottom line, the whole thing is trial and error.. just keep checking with a shell. __________________ Tpr. Spencer, DF RCD C Sqn - CFB Gagetown Please save for me, some gallantry That will echo when I'm gone

M3 Shell Carrier?

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