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Old January 17th, 2008, 17:33   #31
Amos
 
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Choose something that'll have a good long-term life, Something that find tectonically pleasing, and something that wont give you a disadvantage (like a MP5-K or a Pistol as a primary)
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Old January 17th, 2008, 17:38   #32
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Originally Posted by kullwarrior View Post
The only reason I have second thought right now about CA G36 is the following
*Bad Wiring & Motor(need to be replaced by TM motor to improve, and I DONT WANT TO UPGRADE yet)
I have had my CA36 for just over a year now. I have used it in about 20-25 games. The wiring had issues the 2nd game. Come to find out it was caused by the fuse box that CA loves to install in their guns. I removed the fuse box, electric taped the wires, and has been working perfect since. The only upgrade I've made is a new piston and spring.
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Old January 17th, 2008, 17:38   #33
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ahem, what else do you suggest? Im not using MP5, AK, or M4 for sure.
So far Im looking at mostly G36 or P90

EDIT: Gamble, that does not sound wise thing to do in my opinion... either they use fuse too weak or they made motor use to much amps. Either or I wouldnt want to get rid of the fuse box x.x
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Old January 17th, 2008, 18:04   #34
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EDIT: Gamble, that does not sound wise thing to do in my opinion... either they use fuse too weak or they made motor use to much amps. Either or I wouldnt want to get rid of the fuse box x.x
Good for you Kullwarrior. Better to err on the side of caution.

I just wanted to let you know that I haven't has any issues since. Besides, a little education on how DC power works will go a long way with Airsoft. DC motors spin only as fast as the amp output and voltage of the battery allows. I use a 9.6v 2000mAH 40AMP battery. CA recommends 8.4v 30AMP, thus blowing the fuse when I use something higher than the fuse allows.

What does this mean? It means that my motor and gears spin a little faster than recommeded causing wear and tear. Mainly to the piston. If you stick with an 8.4v battery, you should be fine.
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Old January 17th, 2008, 18:19   #35
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Good for you Kullwarrior. Better to err on the side of caution.

I just wanted to let you know that I haven't has any issues since. Besides, a little education on how DC power works will go a long way with Airsoft. DC motors spin only as fast as the amp output and voltage of the battery allows. I use a 9.6v 2000mAH 40AMP battery. CA recommends 8.4v 30AMP, thus blowing the fuse when I use something higher than the fuse allows.

What does this mean? It means that my motor and gears spin a little faster than recommeded causing wear and tear. Mainly to the piston. If you stick with an 8.4v battery, you should be fine.
oh okay good I was worried about the original battery will cause it burnt. Now thats clear my excuse for CA G36 is just one less now...
Exactly how bad is the eye relief for the Ca G36 G36K? Is it usable or just decoration
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Old January 17th, 2008, 18:31   #36
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Originally Posted by kullwarrior View Post
ahem, what else do you suggest? Im not using MP5, AK, or M4 for sure.
So far Im looking at mostly G36 or P90

EDIT: Gamble, that does not sound wise thing to do in my opinion... either they use fuse too weak or they made motor use to much amps. Either or I wouldnt want to get rid of the fuse box x.x
Isn't as bas as it sounds, I've worked on guns that shredded their internals and the stock 15A fuse still remained ok for use. Personally for my guns I don't bother with the fuse. Most others do as well. False sense of security they provide.

Listen, want my advice on an AEG, get a TM G36, it's rugged, shoots great, and is reliable. That's my take on all you ask for, and it's all there. Want it the size of a CA G36K, then get a longer inner barrel and the K front end, and you are laughing. CA G36K isn't all it's cracked up to be. Besides, with the G36C (the TM one) you get much better internals (with CA G36K, you don't get a metal body, and to make it reliable for cheap, you have to at least install a better pistonhead and piston), and you can buy a larger foregrip (for around $60 I think) that you can easily fit a larger battery in.

And I'm wondering how "eye relief" can be considered a "decoration". That's like saying a BB is a tree, or how dry firing causes global warming.
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Old January 17th, 2008, 19:00   #37
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And I'm wondering how "eye relief" can be considered a "decoration". That's like saying a BB is a tree, or how dry firing causes global warming.
umm Im asking how bad is the eye relief not saying those analogy you made up...
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Old January 17th, 2008, 19:18   #38
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The eye relief of the CA G36 carry handle scope is less than 1", IIRC. That's less than the distance between the lens of most PB goggles and your eyes. They might have changed the scope internals since my batch, though.

Having owned a CA G36, I'd say hold it and a TM in person and then decide. CA internals might be inferior, but externally CA feels much nicer than TM. It depends what you think it's more important/harder to remedy at a later date.
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Old January 17th, 2008, 19:23   #39
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I'm going to have to say that if you get a P90, get the TR version. As much as I hate the way the TR looks compared to the RDS, the RDS on the P90 is hard to tune, and can get shot through easily, apparently. From what I can tell, the right iron sight on a lot of the RDS models also snap with use. Mine did.
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Old January 17th, 2008, 19:45   #40
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I haven't had any issues with the internals in my CA36. I've upgraded the spring and spring guide only, and it's seen somewhere around 15,000 rounds. I re-greased the mechbox last time I had it open (about 1,000 or 2,000 rounds ago), and there was no wearing on the gears, bushings, or piston. I don't get why everyone says CA36 internals suck. I have yet to have this mechbox fail on me in any way.

As for the wiring, it's not the greatest. IMO the biggest issue is they give you 6 inches of wire when you need 2. It's a bit of a pain to get the battery in.

The eye relief on the export sight is bad. Actually, it's really bad. That's why I replaced the rail. And I'm not 100% sure but I believe the CA36 comes with Classic Army's equivalent of the EG1000. The externals on the gun are better than the externals on any stock TM gun I've seen, save maybe the AUG for which I would say they are on par. You can also lock back the bolt on the CA36, though I have no idea why you would want to.
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Old January 17th, 2008, 20:47   #41
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......RDS models also snap with use. Mine did.
what do you mean by that? I'm planning to get RDS and I found theres a upgrader than can replace it when I want to spent more money on it.

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http://www.007airsoft.com/products/htm/optics.htm
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Old January 17th, 2008, 21:01   #42
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Or if you get one of those, you could give me 12 dollars and measurements and I'll ship you a protector to make sure they do not get shot out.
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Old January 17th, 2008, 21:12   #43
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Originally Posted by kullwarrior View Post
umm Im asking how bad is the eye relief not saying those analogy you made up...
Eye relief applies to magnified scopes, not iron sights. And eye relief is the distance between the rear of the scope and your eye, to get the best sight picture without any shadowing on the image.

Could just be you got the term mixed up with something else.
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Old January 17th, 2008, 21:22   #44
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maybe he's talking about the eye relief on the G36?? CA models have small scopes.
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Old January 17th, 2008, 22:41   #45
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maybe he's talking about the eye relief on the G36?? CA models have small scopes.
After all the posts regarding eye relief it was said he's talking about an aftermarket rail with a built in scope. I haven't seen any CA G36 yet (in person) that has one stock. Regarding the top rail with built in scope, I dealt with one once, it was shit, and not only that, the crosshairs were seriously crooked.
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