Umarex M416 pesky problems.

EscapisT · May 25th, 2011, 22:25

Hey guys, my new Umarex HK416 CQB elite has killed my hands.

I wanted to look into the gearbox because i planned on ordering upgrades for it today. But the stupid screw at the bottom in the buffer tube is so tight even my brother, who is a bodybuilder, could not even get it out. It's almost stripped, I'd say there is about 1/3 of the head left.

Furthermore, the lower receiver pin does not want to go back in. It was in fine when I bought it, but it stops about 3/4 of the way in because it's not going in straight. It goes through the right receiver and gearbox holes fine, but then it hits against the inner wall of the gearbox on it's way out. I checked the pin, it's straight as an arrow.

I was thinking about taking the whole gearbox out and re-seating it, but -oh wait- my effing buffer tube seems to be have been screwed on by chuck effing norris. I'm fuming.

HKGhost · May 25th, 2011, 23:11

Why would you fuck around with it if nothing is wrong? Hope you've learned a lesson here. If it ain't broken, don't fuck with it. Did you try loosening the castle nut on the buffer tube. That could be the reason why the screw is so tight.

EscapisT · May 26th, 2011, 00:10

hey ghost,

I'm opening it up to familiarize myself with it, because i ordered a shim set and new spring (gun shoots at 335, and I play outdoors in the woods so i'd like a little extra oomph).

No, i did not loosen the castle nut... I'm guessing it's the ring over the buffer tube where it meets the receiver. Do I need a special tool to loosen it?

sushicake · May 26th, 2011, 00:39

Are you sure that's even a screw... If it's a Umarex it could be an ARES rebrand and their buffer tubes screw off like the real steel one atleast from the ones I've seen.

Nevermind it's a VFC rebrand VFC usually tends to over tighten their screws.

Donster · May 26th, 2011, 00:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by sushicake

Are you sure that's even a screw... If it's a Umarex it could be an ARES rebrand and their buffer tubes screw off like the real steel one atleast from the ones I've seen.

last i heard, Umarex is actually made by VFC under license. They had issues in the past due to trade infringement, but they now make the 416 for Umarex. It is still a VFC though. He has one of the best airsoft guns in the industry.

EscapisT · May 26th, 2011, 00:50

Well thing is, I also own a javelin m4 RIS, and have never taken it apart. However, in this video, NCman talks about the tube and doesnt even mention anything about the castle nut.... He just takes the screw out. I though all m4/ar15 stocks were similar.... so what would you guys do if you were in my shoes right now?

YouTube - ‪Javelin Airsoft Works M4A1 Internal Review‬&rlm; Go to 4:45

sushicake · May 26th, 2011, 00:52

Wait if it is a VFC the buffer tube screw doesn't even go into the gearbox it screws into the body itself. There's a separate screw that holds the spring guide in place (normally the buffer tube screw screws into the spring guide to secure it)

So you could technically just take off the pistol grip and all the securing pieces and pull the gearbox out while keeping the wire in the buffer tube.

And the reason for the pin not going back in is because the rear pin is secured by a C-clip and that gets in the way sometimes when you're trying to put the rear pin back in.

HKGhost · May 26th, 2011, 01:06

Sushicake is right. If your gun is built like other VFC m4, then the screw in the buffer tube doesn't screw into the gearbox but the lower receiver. If this is the case, you should be able to take off the grip, body pins (don't forget the one above the trigger), bolt catch and mag release to remove the gearbox. Also, the rear body pin might be a bit long so it won't clear the gearbox for you to remove it. Pop off the retaining clip on the body pin and remove the body pin completely off. Then the gearbox should come out easily.

EscapisT · May 26th, 2011, 01:25

Ok, so I removed the large receiver pin and one of the small pins. The gearbox now wobbles so it is indeed not held in place by the buffer.. I've got 2 more pins to go, the small one above above the fire selector at the semi position and the medium one by the bolt catch..... having trouble punching them out.

HKGhost · May 26th, 2011, 01:46

those two do not come out. They are fake pins. Only remove the parts that I've listed.

sushicake · May 26th, 2011, 11:39

Only remove these parts!

And in this order

Pistol Grip
Body pin above trigger
Bolt catch pin
Bolt catch
Mag Release

And your gearbox should come right out

Danke · May 26th, 2011, 11:54

If that AEG has the catch to hold the bolt open you need to remove it from the front of the mechbox too. That lets you rock the box forward far enough to remove it.

THe_Silencer · May 26th, 2011, 12:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danke

If that AEG has the catch to hold the bolt open you need to remove it from the front of the mechbox too. That lets you rock the box forward far enough to remove it.

You don't need to remove that. Just make sure its not engaged.

Danke · May 26th, 2011, 14:53

On my first gen VFC you have to pop it off.

EscapisT · May 26th, 2011, 15:04

Ok, thanks for the help guys but i have a few more little problems..

Im using those A.C.M. 120rnd plastic midcaps from torontoairsoft.com . Once inserted in the magwell, they feed about 3 rounds fine, then I have to tilt the mag forward for it to feed again. The mags dont work in my javelin m4 either. However, they work just fine in my friends g&g m4 commando....

I recieved a few parts in the mail.... A madbull 6.01mm ultimate TB and a king arms enhanced hopup chamber. I got the hopup chamber in hopes it would solve my midcap feeding problems.... Installed the barrel this morning with the metal kingarms hopup chamber, i am still experiencing the same issue, no changes.

Also, you guys said I have one of the best aegs in the industry, but somehow it shoots at 335 fps only... im not sure if the stock internals will handle an m120 spring.. Im going to shim the gears and replace the metal piston head with a G&G bearing polycarb to minimize stress on the gearbox.

Also, the new barrel is like 4 inches too long.. should I get a silencer or cut it.. personally, i prefer a shorter, more maneuverable firearm, but ive read around that extra inner barrel length can only give a little more accuracy and only under certain circumstances. Would you cut or extend/suppress :P

Appreciate the help guys!

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May 25th, 2011, 22:25	#1
EscapisT Trader rating Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Montreal, QC	Umarex M416 pesky problems. Hey guys, my new Umarex HK416 CQB elite has killed my hands. I wanted to look into the gearbox because i planned on ordering upgrades for it today. But the stupid screw at the bottom in the buffer tube is so tight even my brother, who is a bodybuilder, could not even get it out. It's almost stripped, I'd say there is about 1/3 of the head left. Furthermore, the lower receiver pin does not want to go back in. It was in fine when I bought it, but it stops about 3/4 of the way in because it's not going in straight. It goes through the right receiver and gearbox holes fine, but then it hits against the inner wall of the gearbox on it's way out. I checked the pin, it's straight as an arrow. I was thinking about taking the whole gearbox out and re-seating it, but -oh wait- my effing buffer tube seems to be have been screwed on by chuck effing norris. I'm fuming.

May 25th, 2011, 23:11	#2
HKGhost Trader rating Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Mississauga, ON	Why would you fuck around with it if nothing is wrong? Hope you've learned a lesson here. If it ain't broken, don't fuck with it. Did you try loosening the castle nut on the buffer tube. That could be the reason why the screw is so tight. __________________ Please email me as I'm not on ASC too often. Custom Build \| Upgrades \| Repairs \| Maintenance Contact: ghostgunwork@gmail.com / Private Message

May 26th, 2011, 00:39	#4
sushicake Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Markham, ON	Are you sure that's even a screw... If it's a Umarex it could be an ARES rebrand and their buffer tubes screw off like the real steel one atleast from the ones I've seen. Nevermind it's a VFC rebrand VFC usually tends to over tighten their screws. __________________ "Don't you know the first law of physics? Anything fun costs atleast $8" Last edited by sushicake; May 26th, 2011 at 00:43..

May 26th, 2011, 00:10	#3
EscapisT Trader rating Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Montreal, QC	hey ghost, I'm opening it up to familiarize myself with it, because i ordered a shim set and new spring (gun shoots at 335, and I play outdoors in the woods so i'd like a little extra oomph). No, i did not loosen the castle nut... I'm guessing it's the ring over the buffer tube where it meets the receiver. Do I need a special tool to loosen it?

May 26th, 2011, 00:50	#6
EscapisT Trader rating Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Montreal, QC	Well thing is, I also own a javelin m4 RIS, and have never taken it apart. However, in this video, NCman talks about the tube and doesnt even mention anything about the castle nut.... He just takes the screw out. I though all m4/ar15 stocks were similar.... so what would you guys do if you were in my shoes right now? YouTube - ‪Javelin Airsoft Works M4A1 Internal Review‬&rlm; Go to 4:45

May 26th, 2011, 00:52	#7
sushicake Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Markham, ON	Wait if it is a VFC the buffer tube screw doesn't even go into the gearbox it screws into the body itself. There's a separate screw that holds the spring guide in place (normally the buffer tube screw screws into the spring guide to secure it) So you could technically just take off the pistol grip and all the securing pieces and pull the gearbox out while keeping the wire in the buffer tube. And the reason for the pin not going back in is because the rear pin is secured by a C-clip and that gets in the way sometimes when you're trying to put the rear pin back in. __________________ "Don't you know the first law of physics? Anything fun costs atleast $8"

May 26th, 2011, 01:06	#8
HKGhost Trader rating Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Mississauga, ON	Sushicake is right. If your gun is built like other VFC m4, then the screw in the buffer tube doesn't screw into the gearbox but the lower receiver. If this is the case, you should be able to take off the grip, body pins (don't forget the one above the trigger), bolt catch and mag release to remove the gearbox. Also, the rear body pin might be a bit long so it won't clear the gearbox for you to remove it. Pop off the retaining clip on the body pin and remove the body pin completely off. Then the gearbox should come out easily. __________________ Please email me as I'm not on ASC too often. Custom Build \| Upgrades \| Repairs \| Maintenance Contact: ghostgunwork@gmail.com / Private Message Last edited by HKGhost; May 26th, 2011 at 01:09..

May 26th, 2011, 01:25	#9
EscapisT Trader rating Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Montreal, QC	Ok, so I removed the large receiver pin and one of the small pins. The gearbox now wobbles so it is indeed not held in place by the buffer.. I've got 2 more pins to go, the small one above above the fire selector at the semi position and the medium one by the bolt catch..... having trouble punching them out.

May 26th, 2011, 01:46	#10
HKGhost Trader rating Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Mississauga, ON	those two do not come out. They are fake pins. Only remove the parts that I've listed. __________________ Please email me as I'm not on ASC too often. Custom Build \| Upgrades \| Repairs \| Maintenance Contact: ghostgunwork@gmail.com / Private Message

May 26th, 2011, 11:39	#11
sushicake Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Markham, ON	Only remove these parts! And in this order Pistol Grip Body pin above trigger Bolt catch pin Bolt catch Mag Release And your gearbox should come right out __________________ "Don't you know the first law of physics? Anything fun costs atleast $8"

May 26th, 2011, 11:54	#12
Danke Prancercise Guru Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Danger Zone	If that AEG has the catch to hold the bolt open you need to remove it from the front of the mechbox too. That lets you rock the box forward far enough to remove it. __________________ Airsoft, where nothing is hurt but feelings.

May 26th, 2011, 14:53	#14
Danke Prancercise Guru Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Danger Zone	On my first gen VFC you have to pop it off. __________________ Airsoft, where nothing is hurt but feelings.

May 26th, 2011, 15:04	#15
EscapisT Trader rating Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Montreal, QC	Ok, thanks for the help guys but i have a few more little problems.. Im using those A.C.M. 120rnd plastic midcaps from torontoairsoft.com . Once inserted in the magwell, they feed about 3 rounds fine, then I have to tilt the mag forward for it to feed again. The mags dont work in my javelin m4 either. However, they work just fine in my friends g&g m4 commando.... I recieved a few parts in the mail.... A madbull 6.01mm ultimate TB and a king arms enhanced hopup chamber. I got the hopup chamber in hopes it would solve my midcap feeding problems.... Installed the barrel this morning with the metal kingarms hopup chamber, i am still experiencing the same issue, no changes. Also, you guys said I have one of the best aegs in the industry, but somehow it shoots at 335 fps only... im not sure if the stock internals will handle an m120 spring.. Im going to shim the gears and replace the metal piston head with a G&G bearing polycarb to minimize stress on the gearbox. Also, the new barrel is like 4 inches too long.. should I get a silencer or cut it.. personally, i prefer a shorter, more maneuverable firearm, but ive read around that extra inner barrel length can only give a little more accuracy and only under certain circumstances. Would you cut or extend/suppress :P Appreciate the help guys! Last edited by EscapisT; May 26th, 2011 at 16:59..

Umarex M416 pesky problems.

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