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lost a pin on rear sight hi-capa

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Old April 24th, 2017, 15:29   #1
devbro
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Thornhill, ON, Canada, North America, Earth
lost a pin on rear sight hi-capa

you know the mini pin at the front part of rear sight, the part that acts like a hinge yep I lost when I opened up my gun for cleaning.

Any ideas where I can get a replacement without buying the whole rear sight?

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I did some work on mine, and I can say a few things regarding the L1A1 from ARES (bought from B2Airsoft. Good guy to deal with. Three out of Three Hearts). If you want an L1A1, get an ARES.

To start, the L1A1 has upgraded two of their parts from the old iterations of the L1A1. I had an old ARES box for comparison (from an M4, if the parts are that different from one another).

1) They changed the piston to a sturdier full metal tooth piston, so no need to change it out for anything, unless you really, really want to.
2) A relatively high torque motor has been added to the build, which is pretty neat
3) I think they changed out the gears to a sturdier built set (much like the LCT gear sets they started making when the 9mm Gearbox came out). Nothing to write home about, but I thought it was cool (replaced them with a set of 16:1 King Arms Gears, cause I had them lying around)
4) Some high connectivity wires have been added in one or two places, though a friend of mine put a MOSFET into the box to prevent Micro Trigger burn out so I can't tell you if it was the entire wire harness, or otherwise (seen it happen on a few Masada Micro Switches, and didn't want to go through the trouble of replacing it)

Spent a pretty penny on the L1A1, but I love the ARES iteration of the L1A1. If built correctly, you can effectively, with .3's, get out to 220 feet effectively. If you want to learn more about what I threw it, I can probably do a follow up post. But I do want to say something about the L1A1, which amounts to a few problems.

1) The gearbox is a complete pain to work on. While it isn't the spring that happens to be the issue, it's the trolley for the micro switch trigger that actuates the switch. It can be misaligned constantly, and when you add in the fact that the trigger is held in by a pin that is housed inside the gearbox, that too can be misaligned adds +10 to headache if you aren't prepared for the work. Thank god everything is V3 compatible, and not ARES proprietary

2) Maybe I did something wrong, or something was going on, but the trigger, after I took out the gearbox, serviced it, and wanted to throw it back into the receiver, the trigger consistently didn't want to actuate the microswitch (ie. it didn't fire, and was essentially having to depress the trigger very harder, harder than I was comfortable with, to deal with it). Modded it by putting a plastic shim on the side of the gear box so that the trigger trolley consistently activated the switch itself.

3) Fuck that loose trigger. I lost hairs dealing with it.
4) Loose ARL spring means it can be knocked out of alignment constantly. Thank god I had new age music playing in the background, or I would've been an unpleasant fella to deal with.

5) The stock air nozzle works, but replacement is always welcomed. Though you only have ARES nozzles to work with (their CSR isn't great, but they put me in touch with the right people eventually, so I got the nozzle). The replacement is full metal, but no O-Ring for some god awful reason.

6) The upper and lower receiver come stock, loose. There is a quick fix (by torquing down the hex key screw that pushes down the take down lever), but still, it's annoying if you don't have the tools on hand.

7) Mags are a pain to find. Luckily WGC had a restock, so I scooped up 7 of them so I can be ready for any milsim coming my way.

8) More of a comment, but I can't find the SUIT Scope for it. That's super minor, but it'd be nice to have one, just for collective purposes

9) The hop up wheel is far looser than I'm comfortable with. You may loose hop up adjustment with aggressive fire, but your mileage may vary (I may have not noticed it because of the sorbo pad taking in most of the gear box energy, but I'm not sure).

10) Did I mention how much I hate that trigger?

Those are a lot of problems that I listed. But honestly, you can't replace the look, and the feel of this rifle. It's deceivingly long, but the antiquated look of the rifle has a certain charm to it that I feel can't be replaced with anything out there. Again, if built correctly, much like the Magpul Masada, it is a long shooting beast that can't be bested by anything out there. Just like the Masada, it needs some love and care, but once you're finish, oh holy hell, you are in for a treat.

Just to add to Disco_Dante's question. No, it's just a standard Microswitch in there right now. Shit shame too, was looking forward to playing around with the FCU, too.
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Current Arsenal:
AW Hi-Capa 5.1 X 2
EMG DD MK18 Cerakote
VFC M4 MK18
CYMA AK47
TM MP5 First gen Rare find
TM MP5A5 with swordfish 2004

Last edited by devbro; April 24th, 2017 at 15:41..
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Old April 24th, 2017, 15:39   #2
devbro
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Thornhill, ON, Canada, North America, Earth
Ok that is definitely NOT what I typed!!!!

I have lost the pin that is located in the front part of rear sight on Hi-Capa. It happened when I opened it up for cleaning. Now I am curious to know where I can find just the pin without buying the whole rear sight. Any chance of making a new one or canadian tire having it?
__________________
Current Arsenal:
AW Hi-Capa 5.1 X 2
EMG DD MK18 Cerakote
VFC M4 MK18
CYMA AK47
TM MP5 First gen Rare find
TM MP5A5 with swordfish 2004
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Old April 24th, 2017, 16:11   #3
RainyEyes
 
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Scarbororororough
Two recommendations if it's a standard pin:
1. Buy it. Shop around. Worst case scenario import it from japan from impulse101 send them a pm and tell them the part #.

2. DIY project. Go to dollarama and buy a set of phillips/flathead mini screw drivers. Use calipers to get approximate dimension of the hole and then choose the appropriate screw to act as the pin. Get a grinder and cut to size. File down with heavy grit sandpaper for texture so that it fits snug and won't get out. It's made with pot metal so it should be fine but ugly shiny if you want it a certain colour.

Last edited by RainyEyes; April 24th, 2017 at 16:17..
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