FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

RacingManiac · December 15th, 2011, 14:05

I know the machining property of brass, I just wonder if there were any practical reason they used brass aside from that. I think a lot of legacy WA pistol upgrades are brass also....brass typically is not something I'd pick for anything structural, but since it has some self lubricating properties it is popular for a bearing/bushing use....

Maybe you can see the shiny brass in the loaded chamber indicator? like there is one in the chamber? lol....

Shirley · December 15th, 2011, 14:21

If only they can make brass slides, I'd take one right away.
Bling bling! And I'll lie it's gold.

RacingManiac · December 15th, 2011, 15:22

They do for WA.....lol

TaroBear · January 8th, 2012, 04:32

So I took my 1911 out to a game for the first time since I've put new parts in. After a few shots, it developed some weird issues.

First, the holster I've always used for it (Huang BH CQC) won't fold the gun in "lock" anymore. I suspect this has something to do with the safety on the right side of the gun, as it won't move anymore (likely has something to do with the square piece that fell out).

Second, after a few double taps, the gun locked back like I was out of ammo. There were still BBs and gas in the mag. Upon inspection, the slide was locked back WITHOUT the slide catch release holding it back. After a while, the slide would suddenly slam back into battery for no apparent reason.

Any ideas, gurus?

Fong242 · January 8th, 2012, 09:36

Once, the (too) big NB oring of the piston head slipped out of its groove and jamed into the loading nozzle, locking the slide back. I switched back to a "regular" oring since.

BTW, when do you need the big NB oring?

Fong

Freeze · January 8th, 2012, 09:36

Taro, that happened to my Hi-Capa when my frame was cracked and my hammer was askew. As in crooked. You might want to check and make sure your frame isn't cracked.

Styrak · January 8th, 2012, 15:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by Freeze

Taro, that happened to my Hi-Capa when my frame was cracked and my hammer was askew. As in crooked. You might want to check and make sure your frame isn't cracked.

Regular Hicapas have metal frames.

TaroBear · January 8th, 2012, 15:18

The frame looks fine. I think it might have something to do with the recoil spring being overly compressed, but it's just a guess.

Edit: My barrel bushing and recoil spring cap are now flush...I have no idea how it happened, since it was physically impossible yesterday.

Double edit: Okay, I THINK the problem is that the Guarder slide and the Nova catch aren't playing nice. The reason the gun appear to slam forward for no reason is, I believe the slide just grinds against the Nova until it can pass. I'm still not sure.

ILLusion · January 8th, 2012, 18:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by TaroBear

So I took my 1911 out to a game for the first time since I've put new parts in. After a few shots, it developed some weird issues.

First, the holster I've always used for it (Huang BH CQC) won't fold the gun in "lock" anymore. I suspect this has something to do with the safety on the right side of the gun, as it won't move anymore (likely has something to do with the square piece that fell out).

This... I can't help you with, unless I see it in my hands.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TaroBear

Second, after a few double taps, the gun locked back like I was out of ammo. There were still BBs and gas in the mag. Upon inspection, the slide was locked back WITHOUT the slide catch release holding it back. After a while, the slide would suddenly slam back into battery for no apparent reason.

Any ideas, gurus?

There are a number of reasons for this. Best thing to do, is put your gun in to the hands of someone who knows what they're looking at to figure it out for you. But I would hunt down the source of the restriction. I'd start by seeing WHERE the slide is hanging. Is it stuck at full back stroke? Part way? Is the blowback unit hanging on the hammer? Is the corner of the blowback unit hanging on the disconnect lever? Is the slide locking up to the chamber? Is the slide hanging on the slide lock? (common problem for users who don't properly modify Nova slide locks and don't realize the slide lock isn't properly seated.)

TaroBear · January 8th, 2012, 20:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by ILLusion

This... I can't help you with, unless I see it in my hands.

There are a number of reasons for this. Best thing to do, is put your gun in to the hands of someone who knows what they're looking at to figure it out for you. But I would hunt down the source of the restriction. I'd start by seeing WHERE the slide is hanging. Is it stuck at full back stroke? Part way? Is the blowback unit hanging on the hammer? Is the corner of the blowback unit hanging on the disconnect lever? Is the slide locking up to the chamber? Is the slide hanging on the slide lock? (common problem for users who don't properly modify Nova slide locks and don't realize the slide lock isn't properly seated.)

I believe your last suggestion is the most likely. I'm going to take it apart and examine each moving component to see if I can figure out what's wrong. if nothing else, I'll drop it off with you when I pick up my rifle.

TaroBear · January 8th, 2012, 21:52

I believe picture one shows the problem.

StrikeFreedom · January 8th, 2012, 22:39

Doesn't seem like the slide is caught on the slide catch to me. You can isolate this by removing the slide catch and insert only the pin portion to secure the hop up unit.

Since you get this problem after a few quick shots, it's possible that the piston head oring is wedged with the loading nozzle. Check that.

RacingManiac · January 9th, 2012, 00:04

What other parts is on the gun?

TaroBear · January 9th, 2012, 02:31

Inner and outer barrel, recoil spring, spring cap, grips, the slide catch, and trigger. I also had to sand down the grip weights a bit for the grips. Oh, and a metal slide/frame.

juicy · January 9th, 2012, 14:15

Hey all,

I've run into a brick wall with a like new cansoft KJW KP-08. Loading nozzle + floating valve + valve blocker (well, the pin that replaces the function of the valve blocker in the red "CO2 ready" KJW loading nozzle assemblies) are all intact. KJW magazines have wear on them right above the valve button itself, as if the valve knocker is hitting there instead of on the valve where it should be to open the valve correctly. Valve knocker spring seems to be installed correctly.

From a fully loaded and gassed up magazine, I rack the slide to chamber a BB and cock the hammer and I get one full cycle. The second time I pull the trigger, I get a small puff of gas exiting the magazine, but no recoil action (and thus the hammer remains fully down). Sometimes, putting upward force on the baseplate of the magazine gets it to cycle correctly.

A possibility that crossed my mind is that the KJW magazine catch is out of spec, allowing the magazine to slightly loosen itself during the initial shot. This would explain the odd wear/dents in the magazine valve, though wouldn't quite explain why the valve gets partially opened when I pull the trigger for the second time. At least, that doesn't quite make sense in my head.

Another possibility that has crossed my mind is that the valve knocker is out of spec, though if it was truly out of spec, I'm thinking that it shouldn't be able to open the valve as much as it does during the first trigger pull.

Hammer seems to have enough force to open the valves on the first strike with a fully gassed up magazine, so I figure that it isn't the hammer spring.

I have no Hi-Capa of my own at this time, so I'm having trouble figuring out exactly which part is giving me trouble. Seeing as how I sold most of my spare parts along with my Hi-Capa, I'm hoping that someone here can give me suggestions on what I should be looking for.

Thanks in advance.

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December 15th, 2011, 14:05	#1381
RacingManiac Trader rating Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Canada/US	I know the machining property of brass, I just wonder if there were any practical reason they used brass aside from that. I think a lot of legacy WA pistol upgrades are brass also....brass typically is not something I'd pick for anything structural, but since it has some self lubricating properties it is popular for a bearing/bushing use.... Maybe you can see the shiny brass in the loaded chamber indicator? like there is one in the chamber? lol.... __________________ My Arnies' Album My PBase Album Custom Pistol Whore...

December 15th, 2011, 14:21	#1382
Shirley A-56 aka Mr.Hitman Trader rating Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Toronto, ON	If only they can make brass slides, I'd take one right away. Bling bling! And I'll lie it's gold. __________________ CANADIAN AIRSOFT PRACTICAL SHOOTING (CAPS) CAPS DIRECTOR # 0047

December 15th, 2011, 15:22	#1383
RacingManiac Trader rating Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Canada/US	They do for WA.....lol __________________ My Arnies' Album My PBase Album Custom Pistol Whore...

January 8th, 2012, 04:32	#1384
TaroBear Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Markham/Toronto	So I took my 1911 out to a game for the first time since I've put new parts in. After a few shots, it developed some weird issues. First, the holster I've always used for it (Huang BH CQC) won't fold the gun in "lock" anymore. I suspect this has something to do with the safety on the right side of the gun, as it won't move anymore (likely has something to do with the square piece that fell out). Second, after a few double taps, the gun locked back like I was out of ammo. There were still BBs and gas in the mag. Upon inspection, the slide was locked back WITHOUT the slide catch release holding it back. After a while, the slide would suddenly slam back into battery for no apparent reason. Any ideas, gurus? __________________ This message was brought to you by Umbrella Inc.

January 8th, 2012, 09:36	#1385
Fong242 Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Sainte-Julie	Once, the (too) big NB oring of the piston head slipped out of its groove and jamed into the loading nozzle, locking the slide back. I switched back to a "regular" oring since. BTW, when do you need the big NB oring? Fong __________________ Valar Morghulis

January 8th, 2012, 09:36	#1386
Freeze Trader rating Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Mississauga	Taro, that happened to my Hi-Capa when my frame was cracked and my hammer was askew. As in crooked. You might want to check and make sure your frame isn't cracked. __________________ VFC HK416C Crushed Orchid - VFC SR16 BCM ZTW TM G17 Loki Tactical Pink - TM G19 TTI Combat Master

January 8th, 2012, 15:18	#1388
TaroBear Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Markham/Toronto	The frame looks fine. I think it might have something to do with the recoil spring being overly compressed, but it's just a guess. Edit: My barrel bushing and recoil spring cap are now flush...I have no idea how it happened, since it was physically impossible yesterday. Double edit: Okay, I THINK the problem is that the Guarder slide and the Nova catch aren't playing nice. The reason the gun appear to slam forward for no reason is, I believe the slide just grinds against the Nova until it can pass. I'm still not sure. __________________ This message was brought to you by Umbrella Inc. Last edited by TaroBear; January 8th, 2012 at 17:47..

January 8th, 2012, 21:52	#1391
TaroBear Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Markham/Toronto	I believe picture one shows the problem. __________________ This message was brought to you by Umbrella Inc.

January 8th, 2012, 22:39	#1392
StrikeFreedom Trader rating Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Markham	Doesn't seem like the slide is caught on the slide catch to me. You can isolate this by removing the slide catch and insert only the pin portion to secure the hop up unit. Since you get this problem after a few quick shots, it's possible that the piston head oring is wedged with the loading nozzle. Check that.

January 9th, 2012, 00:04	#1393
RacingManiac Trader rating Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Canada/US	What other parts is on the gun? __________________ My Arnies' Album My PBase Album Custom Pistol Whore...

January 9th, 2012, 02:31	#1394
TaroBear Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Markham/Toronto	Inner and outer barrel, recoil spring, spring cap, grips, the slide catch, and trigger. I also had to sand down the grip weights a bit for the grips. Oh, and a metal slide/frame. __________________ This message was brought to you by Umbrella Inc.

January 9th, 2012, 14:15	#1395
juicy Trader rating Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Richmond, BC	Hey all, I've run into a brick wall with a like new cansoft KJW KP-08. Loading nozzle + floating valve + valve blocker (well, the pin that replaces the function of the valve blocker in the red "CO2 ready" KJW loading nozzle assemblies) are all intact. KJW magazines have wear on them right above the valve button itself, as if the valve knocker is hitting there instead of on the valve where it should be to open the valve correctly. Valve knocker spring seems to be installed correctly. From a fully loaded and gassed up magazine, I rack the slide to chamber a BB and cock the hammer and I get one full cycle. The second time I pull the trigger, I get a small puff of gas exiting the magazine, but no recoil action (and thus the hammer remains fully down). Sometimes, putting upward force on the baseplate of the magazine gets it to cycle correctly. A possibility that crossed my mind is that the KJW magazine catch is out of spec, allowing the magazine to slightly loosen itself during the initial shot. This would explain the odd wear/dents in the magazine valve, though wouldn't quite explain why the valve gets partially opened when I pull the trigger for the second time. At least, that doesn't quite make sense in my head. Another possibility that has crossed my mind is that the valve knocker is out of spec, though if it was truly out of spec, I'm thinking that it shouldn't be able to open the valve as much as it does during the first trigger pull. Hammer seems to have enough force to open the valves on the first strike with a fully gassed up magazine, so I figure that it isn't the hammer spring. I have no Hi-Capa of my own at this time, so I'm having trouble figuring out exactly which part is giving me trouble. Seeing as how I sold most of my spare parts along with my Hi-Capa, I'm hoping that someone here can give me suggestions on what I should be looking for. Thanks in advance.

FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

Upgrades & Modifications