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Old July 26th, 2012, 16:28   #1
Ricochet
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Sniper gear and BB weights

I've been playing for quite awhile, and have decided to double duty with a support role. Generally I run a heavy loadout, with a Systema PTW M16A3; and everything one could ever need for a twenty-four hour game.

I want to build a "serious" sharp shooter loadout. I'm looking for concealment, and speed; but I still want to be sustainable for twenty-four hours. I'm looking for advice from any experienced Airsoft snipers about what I should be looking for. Or even just clever ideas.

Also, I'm interested in BB weights for sniping. I'm building two different platforms, for two different game styles. ThunderCactus has already been extremely helpful with his advice, and one of my platforms will be based off of his and Amos' ideals. Thank you by the way guys. The second though is going to be a little more heavy duty. I'm looking to make it something special and would appreciate some advice.

Here are the two builds:

1: Tokyo Marui L96 AWS (Spring system)
- Laylax 6.03 precision inner barrel
- Laylax V-trigger
- PDI Precision cylinder set
- Firefly hop-up
- ETC
Target FPS: 440
BB Weight: 0.30g
This is a light weight platform based off a very successful/effective sniping build I've seen.

2: Ares AW .338 (Gas system)
- Prometheus 6.03 inner barrel
- Madbull hard rubber
- Advice on the bucking or hop-up?
- Advice on a FPS control? (Like a MPAS)
Target FPS: 485 (I still want to be able to run it at most games)
BB weight: Advice?

I want this gun to be a terror on the field. I'm looking for maximum BB stability. Has anyone used one of these guns? Is a 0.46g round too much? Is there some sort of FPS control for this model, so it will chrono in adverse weather? Any advice will be great, thanks.
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Last edited by Ricochet; July 26th, 2012 at 16:30..
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Old July 26th, 2012, 16:33   #2
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er-hop and an lrb. hpa conversion if you go gas.
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Old July 31st, 2012, 16:34   #3
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For BB weight it depends on what your gun is shooting. If you're shooting between 425-485 fps then use .3s. In my opinion I'd go with a 0.43 if you're on the upper scale (485 > x > 500 fps). Just my 0.02. I'd like to hear others opinions. FPS is overrated anyways. ;p

Last edited by Snipetek; July 31st, 2012 at 16:36..
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Old July 31st, 2012, 20:30   #4
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WOW!!!!

Okay you measure the FPS with .2s and FPS does matter! The heavier bbs are used to fly straighter, less wind missdirection.
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Old July 31st, 2012, 21:00   #5
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Originally Posted by jomor View Post
Okay you measure the FPS with .2s and FPS does matter! The heavier bbs are used to fly straighter, less wind missdirection.
No one said it didn't matter. You're correct about wind missdirection. But you don't want a BB too heavy that it drops off or a BB too light that it curves.

@Ricochet As I said earlier I would stick with 0.3/.36g for what your shooting.

Here's a BB FPS to BB W/R Chart I have saved from a veteran player.
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Last edited by Snipetek; July 31st, 2012 at 21:04..
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Old July 31st, 2012, 21:10   #6
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Get on asm and learn about er-hops and lrb like wind_comm said
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Old August 1st, 2012, 13:15   #7
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397fps (0.20g) and 0.36g had been my sweet point in my M24 the last few years I played, never did I have such accuracy (and quite good range, gotta adjust for elevation though like in real steel), and I shot everything from 440-585fps for a couple years before the switch, totally unpredicatable ballistics (higher velocity = faster spin on the BB from the hop up, means it'll be more likely to veer off easier due to air density variations) and lousy accuracy.
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Old August 1st, 2012, 14:18   #8
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Ricochet, who was that guy I was hearing about with the sick VSR, I think his name was Toastmaster or something? Maybe try asking him.

Also I'd say use .36's. Don't you guys already use .30's in your PTW's anyways? (I'm still using .28's in my AEG though).

I don't think ER hops are totally necessary but you could do it anyways if you want the best but I think all you need is a standard R hop patch from Stealth (Airsoftstore.ca).
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Old August 1st, 2012, 17:39   #9
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The best thing to do is get your hands on various bbs and weights, my buddy and I have been running different bbs under different conditions. Decided it might be best to hold onto different bbs and change weights according to the field we were playing at. It involves zeroing scope more often but, you get good at it after a while.
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Old August 1st, 2012, 17:47   #10
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matters

Snipetek you said its over rated. I think its pretty important, just my opinion. Your right about the too heavy bbs for sure. Thanks for the chart thats a keeper for sure!

Last edited by jomor; August 1st, 2012 at 17:49.. Reason: typo
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Old August 2nd, 2012, 00:35   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jomor View Post
Snipetek you said its over rated. I think its pretty important, just my opinion. Your right about the too heavy bbs for sure. Thanks for the chart thats a keeper for sure!
Lol. I was being sarcastic with my winkie face.
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Old August 2nd, 2012, 00:43   #12
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laylax v-trigger? I swear it's supposed to be PDI...
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Old August 2nd, 2012, 01:00   #13
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Boren is right, it's Laylax Zero Trigger and PDI V trigger. Small change but it can be a big deal depending on if you decide to go with and then the upgrade path since IIRC Laylax and PDI cylinder systems don't like each other or something. V Trigger is a harder trigger pull but more robust while the Zero trigger is light as a feather but not as robust (but should be able to survive sub 500 FPS no problem).
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Old August 2nd, 2012, 02:47   #14
Ricochet
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I'm going to stick with the 0.30g for the Tokyo Marui, with a lower FPS. I will need a full compliment of upgrade parts and tweaking, but it'll be good. I've already seen this build in action, and it's solid.

I've now received the Ares AW .338, and bone stock it shoots 550 FPS with 0.20g BBs. I've disassembled it, cleaned, re-greased everything, and added a couple new upgrades; a Madbull H-bucking (hard), a Madbull rubber with stabilizer (hard), and a Prometheus stainless steel 6.03mm, 650mm tightbore barrel. The gun has a one piece hop-up that takes AEG parts, which is nice. The only pain, is getting the rubber to seat, as it's such a tight fit. Not like Rob's mom at all.

Since the parts change, the FPS actually dropped a bit to between 480-510 FPS. That's strange, you'd think a hard hop-up and a tighter bore would increase velocity (but I'm not complaining). I may make a custom pressure control valve if needed, as I cannot find an after market one. I'd need to make sure I can aquire a replacement bolt first in case I screw it up. On that note, anyone know who in Canada is an "official" Ares retailer?

Before upgrading the gun shot easily over two-hundred feet, but was inconsistent. I couldn't stabilize the hop-up, and obviously couldn't dial in my sites due to inconsistencies. I will hopefully be able to put this gun through it's paces soon.

I have to say, that i'm impressed with the Ares build. It's a very simple system. It would seem if anything wore out or broke, it would be easy to have a part machined. The bolt, and trigger are the only semi complicated pieces.
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Last edited by Ricochet; August 2nd, 2012 at 02:49..
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Old August 2nd, 2012, 17:54   #15
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It was Toast's VSR, I don't think he plays anymore, and anyway it was never as good as my VSR lol

Amos learned that increasing hop can actually increase FPS on a bolt action, depending on your barrel length, sometimes the higher initial pressure caused with lots of hop will increase initial and subsequent acceleration down the barrel.
He was at 475 or something, increased hop to get to 470 and it actually went to about 490

What people mean by "FPS doesn't matter" is that compression and consistency are MORE important than FPS by a LOT.
I used to have a 360fps G3-SG1 that could easily outrange many chinese 470fps sniper rifles, simply because it had a far superior hopup and air seal.

And I'm gonna +1 with Stalker on the higher fps being bad bit. In my experience .3s are only fully effective till about 450fps, then you really need .36s.
Then .43s once you get above 400, but at 585 you're looking at something like .6s
What I've learned in my years is that BB's have a relative velocity that they love to be at, and it's 330-360fps. Everything just seems to perform better in that speed range, too fast and it seems like the air around the BB starts to spoil or something causing it to veer off.
Anyone got a wind tunnel? We'll test the optimal relative velocity for maintaining the stable flight of 6mm spheroids with backspin lol
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