HELP TM Hi-Capa Build problems

[Drakker]

Yes, but a heavier BB will lose speed slower than a light BB. So at long range an initially slower heavy BB will actually get there faster than a light BB that loses speed really quickly.

[MultipleParadox]

Originally Posted by icemonkey

I just had a light bulb moment
as for the parts ... it was ordered online, and i have learned that the retailers are smart and label it all as toy parts so there is no issues but you have to be smart too and not order it all together so it does not look like a pistol.

i had no problems, but the set was ordered from alpha air soft and only issue from ordering everything was the cost of shipping. which was anything from $15-$25

Then you've been lucky 😉
You can order pretty much everything except for AR lower receivers, and pistol frames (and some others but that's mainly that)
If customs would have opened your packages for inspection... odds are that they'd have seized the frames
(no matter what's written on the customs declaration form)

[Kos-Mos]

Originally Posted by MultipleParadox

Then you've been lucky 😉
You can order pretty much everything except for AR lower receivers, and pistol frames (and some others but that's mainly that)
If customs would have opened your packages for inspection... odds are that they'd have seized the frames
(no matter what's written on the customs declaration form)

Hicapa frames don't look like any firearm frame enough to get seized.
Got 3 in, 2 where opened (because of the slides and mags, the frame box was still sealed).

It's probably the only pistol that you are unlucky to get a frame seized...

[icemonkey]

i read a lot about customs and its really a hit and miss to be honest if you catch a custom agent on a bad day and you do happen to see your package then bye bye, but i read that alot of it has to do with cost and proper documentation

if you shipping lets say a pistol frame and grip together your jsut asking for it, but if you ship them separately and lets say it says you paid $300 pluss shipping and they run it though the scanner they are usually like "it makes sense" they are ok

on the outer side if you ship it and got a good deal and an AR lower or anything that looks dangerous and you paid like $50 then it looks suspicious.

they usually open it when the item vs the price does not match or it looks suspicious then yea.

but in the end luck is a big factor ... if i like the game and love doing pistol only i may take the remainder parts and build a second tactical pistol i basically need 8 parts (1 being a grip ) and i would have a fully operational second pistol

FYI I AM SCARED FOR MY FIRST GAME!! been watching vids on youtube@@ DANG CHEATERS TOO@@

[icemonkey]

i solved 1 problem but encountered another

now it shoots 330-335 and the low fps was due to the valve blocker screw in the loading nozzle keeps getting loose. I have tightened it and use Lock-tite to secure it so hopefully it holds but it kept the consistency up and increase FPS

HOWEVER!!! now when i cock the gun back the loading nozzle does not always go all the way back in the blow back housing. will this be a problem?

when i shoot it there is no problem and its perfectly fine and i get no issues but only when i cock it, it does not go all the way back.

Any ideas anyone? or should i just leave it alone if it still works fine

[MultipleParadox]

Most probably a lubing issue?
It's not really a problem as long it retracts enough to clear the feed lips of the mag

Use silicon oil on the pistol cup (around which the nozzle slides).
Not too lightweight so it would run out, not too heavy so it impairs action; Something like 30wt should be good

[icemonkey]

SMART!!! problem solved!!! i gunked it up way to much ... wiped out all the lube and just put it in the o-rings THANKS!!!

[icemonkey]

I think I spoke to Soon

What is the proper lube / grease to buy or use? something i can get easily would be best.

I have Silicone Oil form my pinball gear and SmartParts Lube but i have a feeling i got this all wrong.

I picked up my pistol to play around and my consistency is suddenly out the window.


Thanks,

[tvw]

When maintaining my GBB'S / AEG's I have used either 30 or 15 weight oil used in RC car shock absorbers. So far I have encountered zero issues with TLR (Team Losi Racing) hobby lubricant. As for grease I have been using a white lithium grease paste( Permeates or Kleen-flo.) For cylinder/ airseal a good bet is to go with a dielectric grease, again I have had success with Permatex in this area. Be sure that the grease you decide to go with does not contain*petroleum distilates or petroleum by-products.

[icemonkey]

Thanks!!!! its fun building and doing fitment but tech issues are annoying!!

[Drakker]

In the case of your hi-capa, lightweight silicon oil inside the loazing nozzle and around the piston head, permatex/superlube for all the other moving parts (slide rails, hammer, etc). You should not use white lithium grease inside a GBB, it is better suited for AEG gearboxes and the outside of spring rifle bolts.

[icemonkey]

thanks i almost got lith grease but settled with "SUPER LUBE" cuz i could not find the good stuff or legit hobby stuff - thanks for the help guys!!!

But i think i am at a stand still.....

1) if i get more FPS i lose consistency if i get more consistency i get less fps (right now i am at a consistent 298 - 301 fps )

2) now when my mag is loaded and i cock the slide back the hammer gets stuck on the underside of the BBU

when i pull the hammer down a bit its all good to go again and the gun operates like normal but it only happens when i cock the hammer using the slide with the mag in.

not a big issue but any quick fixes?

[Drakker]

1) This is normal. The harder the valve is hit, the more gas is released, the more randomness it adds to the equation (cool down, speed of the gas expansion, etc). It is not impossible to make a consistent high FPS setup, but it takes experience. Keep working at it.

2) Sometimes all that's needed is a bit of lube. But more likely you should make sure your BBU is assembled correctly. On some pistols it could be related to the hammer assembly pushing up too hard/too high, though I've personally never had this problem with any of my Hi-capas/1911s. Sometimes it happens because the recoil spring is too weak. It could also be caused by a too tight combination of slide/rails. This can be fixed in many ways, but it would involve polishing the rails and slide to remove excess material, and I don't want you to get any ideas here. This is tricky and I would not recommend you do it on your first build without supervision. But it's unlikely to be the problem, since it worked before. Check what you changed lately and start there.

[icemonkey]

1 ) i guess i ll have to take it one step at a time and take the advice and don't mess whit the consistency

2) i polished my rails and slide already and its supper smooth and snappy but i had the problem before i did it .... lol. one thing i did notice is that it only happens on the first time i cock it with the slide and mag in (if i manually cock it no issues). the only weird part is once i pull the hammer down a bit to release the slide from being stuck, with the mag still in, the problem never comes back up. even when i swaps mags to reload and the hammer is still cocked problem does not come up and i have no issues. so that leaded me to believe your one point of hammer assembly

the only difference between mag being in and mag not being in, that i can think of, is that some pressure is put on the valve knocker causing movement in the whole hammer assembly causing the hammer to push slightly higher, but if that is true then why only that first initial one if i use the slide to cock it only?

one alternative i was thinking was that is was related to the grip safety prong on the leaf spring as i adjusted to try to reengage the grip safety but realized that its pointless to have it, but because of the adjustment, the tail of the grip safety is pushing on something in the assembly causing the issue

[Drakker]

If it happens only the first time it means something happens when you cycle it manually. Are you sure you are pushing the slide as far back as it can go? Its very easy to lock the slide on the hammer when cycling it manually. The recoil spring needs to work a bit to gather enough speed to overcome the hammer. On a perfectly tuned setup this should not happen... But unfortunately this is airsoft. Cheaper pistols do it all the time. Try putting the original TM hammer assembly back in and see if it still happens. Then try the TM BBU and nozzle. Try to find out which upgrade part is causing the problem then focus on that.