Marui Hi-Capa 5.1 Gold Match

[N_Force]

First off, this 5.1 Gold Match may not compatible with old version 4.3 & 5.1 since Marui has changed the design on the slide and mid-frame. I don't know when did they start to change it, I have my 4.3 is 6-7 year old and I don't even have any Marui 5.1 to compare with. Will show pictures soon for reference.

Still a very nice built and smooth as usual, Japanese engineering. Internal, look like similar with my old 4.3. But the gold finish, just like what Sequential said?!? "dipped in gold paint" LOL.

[N_Force]

This page is just for use as reference only!

The reason I take this Gold Match is just I need to replace my 4.3 while ago and this Gold Match just caught my eyes. Over all it's just like a regular 5.1 to me in gold color and the performance is as good as what a Marui should be.


Top TM 5.1 gold match(mag well installed),
middle TM 4.3,
bottom Limcat slide


Top is gold match slide with new metal piece installed, the thickness of the wall is thicker. **Just took a deep look, this extra piece is reinforced for slide stop use. Means the slide stop is holding on this metal instead of the plastic slide. Improved design!**
bottom is 4,3 original slide


right is gold match midframe and the green circle is slimmer(thinner). left is the 4.3 midframe


top view of the gold match midframe, the rail for left hand slide(wrong side typed on picture) is slimmer, shows between two red arrows.


right hand side of the midframe, NO CHANGE


new design on the left hand side of the midframe, back half is original thickness, but front half is slimmer(thinner)


7,4.3 slide with 5.1 gold match midframe, it fits in and shoots well


8, Limcat slide with 5.1 gold match midframe, it fits in too, but not yet install for test


9, 5.1 slide does not fit in all the way with 4.3 midframe, that's the point it stops and stays there, not silding in anymore


10, 5.1 gold match slide


11, top is 4.3 barrel and the bottom is gold match.
Right hand side both slide stops are different design since the the new design on a little piece of metal slide holding(Black one is for gold match)


12, top is 4.3 spring rod and bottom is gold match



Done

[N_Force]

1, Gold Match rear sight is plastic, regular 5.1 rear sight is metal.
2, Slide moving smoother than the regular 5.1.
3, Nozzle is sitting a bit too far after push bb in chamber, bb may fall out from barrel when muzzle tip down during cocking the slide. You may have to adjust the hop up and file shorten the front of the nozzle a bit will fix this issue. Same problem I had on my old 4.3 version.


5.1 Gold Match - New Parts












The little screw holding a metal piece for reinforced slide stop, tie it up or add small amount of glue to hold it in place. That could be loose and miss the catch.

Further more, after awhile you may find the slide loose a bit too. It is because this metal piece is starting to wear and off track. That also effect the trigger pull not function properly. I applied thin layer of blue glue to increase the thickness and fill the gap, now it works great. But how long can it last? Duno yet.
This is the Marui 5.1 latest regular slide, it shows the empty space without the reinforced slide part


Red arrows are the area apply glue, blue arrow is the screw holding the metal piece. When the screw is loose, also the metal piece too, then the slide stop may not lock when mag is empty, even the trigger for firing may not work properly too.

[N_Force]

Original inner barrel 6.05mm vs Raven 01 inner barrel 6.01mm

compare FPS & grouping

Only I did was placed a piece of electrical tape inside the front of slide, between the contact with outer barrel, to minimize the outer barrel wobble and increase the accuracy.

Since the original inner barrel is already 6.05mm, the grouping in 15ft range with 0.20gm bb, compare to Raven 01 6.01mm inner barrel, both are pretty close tight grouping.
Seems the only aventage for the 6.01mm tighter barrel is from original shooting at 312.20fps increase to 331.80fps. If using 7" 6.01mm inner barrel(original is around 5" in length), it will be 355.50fps.

left target - shot by Raven 6.01mm(without adjust rear sight), that's why the grouping fell low to right a bit, right target - shot by original 6.05mm (adjust rear sight and zero).


top is original Marui inner barrel and the new parts desigh, bottom is Raven 01 barrel, been cut short and modified to fit in to new design.
PS, without the modify to fit in new parts is also working.

after cut short the barrel, file round and smooth the front, gun blue it

[N_Force]

AAfter found out another problem, fixed and did more tune up, tested 10 shots in 15' again, improved.

[Sequential]

Good findings n-force!

The slimmer frame means only 1 thing. Easier to break and does not support after-market slides as good.

The original frame is always too soft, using a steel metal slide or even hardened aluminium slide always puts a lot of wear on the rails.

If the rails are this skinny now, one might want to get a matching slide and frame set instead of having to just upgrade the slide like what most do with the old 5.1/4.3 design.

The gun looks great out of the box, for those wanting something out of the box and "ready to go" this might be a good choice, but for people who are looking to build a full custom race-gun its always best to start with something else.

[e-luder]

So they finally migrated that spring loaded inner barrel to the 5.1. FINALLY!

lol.

It's nothing new. That inner barrel system is what they use on the Marui Detonics. What it does is "...push the [outer] barrel back to it's natural state. This ensures the chamber is always lowered and clear of the slide. When the slide returns to battery, it will push the barrel back in to battery. As the slide moves backwards, the barrel will follow the slide back. With this method, even if your lugs are completely smoked, it's still functional ". -iLLusion.

I've replicated that design for years. It's pretty cool.
THis is a 4.3 set up:

The slimmer frame means only 1 thing. Easier to break and does not support after-market slides as good.

The original frame is always too soft, using a steel metal slide or even hardened aluminium slide always puts a lot of wear on the rails.

How do you figure that?

Even if the pot metal is too soft, that still wouldn't suffice to say that it can't handle aftermarket slides. N-Force was already successful in putting a Limcat slide on unto that frame and that's an aftermarket slide, is it not?

How "long" it'll last is entirely dependant on the operator and what kind of mileage they put onto the gun.

You'll get wear regardless of whatever slide you put on there. It's metal to metal. The key is lubrication to minimize it.

If one is too worried about slide rails getting worn, then they have no business being in airsoft and putting together a "custom" gun. THere are far better things to worry about than worn frame rails...

The gun looks great out of the box, for those wanting something out of the box and "ready to go" this might be a good choice, but for people who are looking to build a full custom race-gun its always best to start with something else.

If you're building a "custom" race gun and do it properly, you wouldn't likely use the stock frame anyways (or anything else for that matter). Weight reduction counts!

In all likelihood, you'd end up replacing almost everything on the gun anyways. Just look at your *EPIC* Custom Infinity/2011 Build, for example.

THe most important parts are really just the pins and springs if they are the same as the old 5.1. Everything else can be bought separately....

I can't see why you discard this gun so easily to work from. You'd actually be downgrading if you use the old 5.1 since it doesn't have that inner barrel system that prevents the inevitable slide self-destruction. THat's a big plus to this gun....

[N_Force]

After around 250 rounds went through, I've found the trigger pull sometimes not moving freely. Then notice the piece of metal for new slide stop gone loose since only tighten in one litter screw on plastic frame, so it wobbling. And also that piece of metal so slim and the rail would be very slim to fit into the slide of the frame, and as you all know the original slide is so soft and create more space causing the slide pop up a bit and off track. Less than 500 rounds and having problem. I placed some glue and created tiny thickness and keep both Raul in place. Now the blow back is even more stable and increase the accuracy as the last picture I posted.

To e-luder, since you've been replicated this spring loaded inner barrel for a while, have you noticed any aventage for the accuracy? This pistol I didn't upgrade any reinforced parts but just the tight barrel. Of cause, as my usual habit, I don't replace parts but just heavily tune up to make things work the best. How long can it last? As what you said , depends on how the user preferences. Anyway, thanks for clearing up the info since I don't know and I only own Marui 4.3 and this Gold Match. And illusion was my gun tech while ago.

[Sequential]

Originally Posted by e-luder

How do you figure that?

Even if the pot metal is too soft, that still wouldn't suffice to say that it can't handle aftermarket slides. N-Force was already successful in putting a Limcat slide on unto that frame and that's an aftermarket slide, is it not?

How "long" it'll last is entirely dependant on the operator and what kind of mileage they put onto the gun.

You'll get wear regardless of whatever slide you put on there. It's metal to metal. The key is lubrication to minimize it.

If one is too worried about slide rails getting worn, then they have no business being in airsoft and putting together a "custom" gun. THere are far better things to worry about than worn frame rails...

If you're building a "custom" race gun and do it properly, you wouldn't likely use the stock frame anyways (or anything else for that matter). Weight reduction counts!

In all likelihood, you'd end up replacing almost everything on the gun anyways. Just look at your *EPIC* Custom Infinity/2011 Build, for example.

THe most important parts are really just the pins and springs if they are the same as the old 5.1. Everything else can be bought separately....

I can't see why you discard this gun so easily to work from. You'd actually be downgrading if you use the old 5.1 since it doesn't have that inner barrel system that prevents the inevitable slide self-destruction. THat's a big plus to this gun....

First off, the Tokyo Marui pot metal after installing an after-market frame will slowly create lots of fine dust/dirty particles with an aftermarket slide. This creates excess dirt and might contribute to excess unnecessary wear.

Lubrication is key, but having a loose/gapped slide is the worst thing you can do when building a Hi-Capa. Not only does the slide rattle sideways or lift up, it makes the gun less gas efficient and more likely to be inaccurate.

There is a reason why everyone building custom Hi-Capas stress the importance of replacing the lower frame completely. If you read the sentence correctly. I did not say that the gold match would is not support aftermarket slides, I said it might not fit as well as the previous version of the 5.1 Hi-Capa.

"If one is too worried about slide rails getting worn, then they have no business being in airsoft and putting together a "custom" gun."

This is an ignorant statement. I can tell you this, my Airsoft Surgeon GRP has 0 wear after thousands of rounds. This is all because a properly gapped and fitted/meshed upper slide and frame.

Originally Posted by N_Force

And also that piece of metal so slim and the rail would be very slim to fit into the slide of the frame, and as you all know the original slide is so soft and create more space causing the slide pop up a bit and off track. Less than 500 rounds and having problem.

This is exactly what I am talking about, the slimmer the frame the more issues you are going to run into with an after-market slide. Not only does the slide ride up, it also makes the gun inaccurate and less efficient.

[8bitninja]

I'm getting slide lift pretty often on the slide release side from normal shooting. I haven't tried if my other one is the same.

[e-luder]

Oooh. A debate!!
I like where this is going...

Originally Posted by Sequential

First off, the Tokyo Marui pot metal after installing an after-market frame will slowly create lots of fine dust/dirty particles with an aftermarket slide. This creates excess dirt and might contribute to excess unnecessary wear.

Isn't this what I was just saying but worded differently?

In the case of pistols, there's no such thing as "unnecessary wear" as it pertains to the slide to frame rails. It's just the nature of machines to create such wear.

In fact, my most preferred way of fitting a slide onto a frame is essentially, racking a slide a million times to wear each other out so they smoothen each other out. But that's just me...

Lubrication is key, but having a loose/gapped slide is the worst thing you can do when building a Hi-Capa. Not only does the slide rattle sideways or lift up, it makes the gun less gas efficient and more likely to be inaccurate.

A "rattling slide" has very little to do with gas efficiency. What makes an airsoft pistol "gas efficient" is the internal mechanisms and how they react to the power source. That is, does the blowback unit trip the disconnector too late? does the piston head seal properly? DOes the recoil spring have too much tension? Doesn't the floating valve close too late? Things like that.

You can see an example of this is found here with this gun of mine:
http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=172777

Admittedly, this gun does have a "rattling slide". This is because of the particular 1911 frame assembly set up and how the chosen 2011 slide interacts with it. THe slide spacer that I needed to put in there to make the two compatible is identical to the 5.1 Gold's frame rails.

However, the hammer mech and blowback unit that i put together targeted the goal of emptying a 40rd single stack stack mag. There's a video of the gun in action somewhere in that thread that demonstrates it clearing that 40rds mag with ease (well, there was actually only 34 BBs in that mag but I dry fired the shit out of it afterwards).

At it's very core, the most after effect a "rattling slide" will impede is the action of the slide and how smooth it is. That is, is the slide moving in parallel the rails or it is coming in crooked such that it makes the action...terrible (for lack of a better term).

On the point of accuracy, if you can't shoot a 50feet target, then it's likely that it has more to do with the hop up unit and barrel assembly than the actual slide. Up until the BB exits the muzzle, everything external is stationary with the exception of the hammer. That means that the barrel has not yet moved or began to move to it's tilting position until the BB has left the barrel. Which means, everything else that occurs after that (the action) is completely irrelevant to the accuracy output.

Continuing on with that 1911 of mine mentioned above, even with that rattling slide, the point of aim and point of impact remained true to each other. THe groupings that came out of that gun were the same as N-Force's results with the 5.1 Gold at 45ft. THis is because even though the gun sports a "rattling slide", the slide always came back to it's natural resting place after it was shaken, drawn out, fired repeatedly and what not. The point is, the inner barrel's point of aim never shifted up, down, left, right, diagonal regardless of the position of the slide.

Now let's say that my inner barrel was shifting all over the place somehow inside my outerbarrel but my slide was like the tightest virgin ever. Guess what happens to my shots?

The rattling slide shouldn't worry you. The rattling of the Inner barrel inside the outer barrel should (in terms of accuracy).

And if the slide REMAINS on one side of the gun, not rattling but just stuck so that the frame and slide are no longer parallel, then that is a broken pistol and have no business being on the field. lol.

There is a reason why everyone building custom Hi-Capas stress the importance of replacing the lower frame completely.

...again. Isn't this what I just said?

If you read the sentence correctly. I did not say that the gold match would is not support aftermarket slides, I said it might not fit as well as the previous version of the 5.1 Hi-Capa.

I am sorry that I misunderstood this.

This is an ignorant statement. I can tell you this, my Airsoft Surgeon GRP has 0 wear after thousands of rounds. This is all because a properly gapped and fitted/meshed upper slide and frame.

You know what an ignorant statement is?

When a guy who owns an Airsoft Surgeon GRP tells me that his STEEL frame has 0 (ZERO) wear on his frame after thousands of rounds.

I'm not knocking your work, Seq.
But don't forget what your frame is made out of...

[N_Force]

Question: for those competition use without hop up, how is it going to hold the bb in place inside the chamber before it fires but not rolling out from the barrel?
For the hop up, as far as I know, also use for holding the bb in chamber before it's fired.

[Sequential]

Originally Posted by e-luder

Oooh. A debate!!
I like where this is going...

In the case of pistols, there's no such thing as "unnecessary wear" as it pertains to the slide to frame rails. It's just the nature of machines to create such wear.

In fact, my most preferred way of fitting a slide onto a frame is essentially, racking a slide a million times to wear each other out so they smoothen each other out. But that's just me...

A "rattling slide" has very little to do with gas efficiency. What makes an airsoft pistol "gas efficient" is the internal mechanisms and how they react to the power source. That is, does the blowback unit trip the disconnector too late? does the piston head seal properly? DOes the recoil spring have too much tension? Doesn't the floating valve close too late? Things like that.

You can see an example of this is found here with this gun of mine:
http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=172777

Admittedly, this gun does have a "rattling slide". This is because of the particular 1911 frame assembly set up and how the chosen 2011 slide interacts with it. THe slide spacer that I needed to put in there to make the two compatible is identical to the 5.1 Gold's frame rails.

However, the hammer mech and blowback unit that i put together targeted the goal of emptying a 40rd single stack stack mag. There's a video of the gun in action somewhere in that thread that demonstrates it clearing that 40rds mag with ease (well, there was actually only 34 BBs in that mag but I dry fired the shit out of it afterwards).

At it's very core, the most after effect a "rattling slide" will impede is the action of the slide and how smooth it is. That is, is the slide moving in parallel the rails or it is coming in crooked such that it makes the action...terrible (for lack of a better term).

On the point of accuracy, if you can't shoot a 50feet target, then it's likely that it has more to do with the hop up unit and barrel assembly than the actual slide. Up until the BB exits the muzzle, everything external is stationary with the exception of the hammer. That means that the barrel has not yet moved or began to move to it's tilting position until the BB has left the barrel. Which means, everything else that occurs after that (the action) is completely irrelevant to the accuracy output.

Continuing on with that 1911 of mine mentioned above, even with that rattling slide, the point of aim and point of impact remained true to each other. THe groupings that came out of that gun were the same as N-Force's results with the 5.1 Gold at 45ft. THis is because even though the gun sports a "rattling slide", the slide always came back to it's natural resting place after it was shaken, drawn out, fired repeatedly and what not. The point is, the inner barrel's point of aim never shifted up, down, left, right, diagonal regardless of the position of the slide.

Now let's say that my inner barrel was shifting all over the place somehow inside my outerbarrel but my slide was like the tightest virgin ever. Guess what happens to my shots?

The rattling slide shouldn't worry you. The rattling of the Inner barrel inside the outer barrel should (in terms of accuracy).

And if the slide REMAINS on one side of the gun, not rattling but just stuck so that the frame and slide are no longer parallel, then that is a broken pistol and have no business being on the field. lol.

...again. Isn't this what I just said?

I am sorry that I misunderstood this.

You know what an ignorant statement is?

When a guy who owns an Airsoft Surgeon GRP tells me that his STEEL frame has 0 (ZERO) wear on his frame after thousands of rounds.

I'm not knocking your work, Seq.
But don't forget what your frame is made out of...

I'm not here to debate about another beaten to death topic. Nor am I here to compare who does better work on building a Custom Hi-Capa as I know what works for me and your level of acceptance to tolerances might not be the same as mine.

Of course you rack a slide a million times with the frame to wear each other out but that is only if you have a similar brand lower frame and slide. Most slides from other companies outside of the premium grade brands (Surgeon/NOVA/PROG4) like Shooters Design, 5KU, Creation tend to fit loose and rise up. Sometimes the slides don't even fit at all and require some serious modifications.

My original point was if someone wanted to slap on an after-market slide from those brands aside from the premium grade brands you are going to run into more problems since they slimmed down the frame on the Gold Match version.

If you start with the 5.1 with the regular made frame, you are more likely able to run into less problems (since most after-market slides are modelled on the original 5.1 design) and at least get some good use out of the original frame before it goes kaput. That being said, I did say that the original frames are no good for building a "race-gun".

When building a custom race gun I would say every piece plays an important role, you can't have a loose slide and say just cause the barrel is bone solid your accuracy wouldn't be affected. The inner barrel shifting issue can be addressed easily like you pointed out (you even made that make shift spring and o-ring to guide it), you don't need to buy a gold match just for the sake of a inner barrel support.

You make a good argument about gas efficiency by asking questions like "blowback unit trip the disconnector too late? does the piston head seal properly? Does the recoil spring have too much tension? Doesn't the floating valve close too late?" surely enough these are all good questions to ask, but the most important thing is keeping the weight of the upper frame light. Meaning using a lightweight BBU, plastic loading nozzle, plastic floating valve etc. Then after you can ask the questions you had mentioned.

I would say a loose slide/frame is more important than that of a inner barrel guide. A overly lubricated hop-up rubber, regardless of how rock solid your inner barrel will throw your aim off completely. Or minor calibrations on your hop-up, or the dial coming loose upon the initial blowback action.

In your Marui 1911A1, I wouldn't have gone with Creation. But that's just me. I'm not knocking your work either E. But I like to tend to stay far away from Creation.

This debate is going no-where. I am done replying to this. As, if anyone were to build a custom "race-gun" / Hi-Capa they would already know the key points we have both pointed out. We could talk about this for months back and forth and still have no outcome. You do you, and I'mma do me.

Cheers.

[e-luder]

LOL.

I didn't realize you were in that kind of train of thought.
I'm not comparing anyone to anyone.
Comparing dick sizes isn't my thing...

Of course you rack a slide a million times with the frame to wear each other out but that is only if you have a similar brand lower frame and slide. Most slides from other companies outside of the premium grade brands (Surgeon/NOVA/PROG4) like Shooters Design, 5KU, Creation tend to fit loose and rise up. Sometimes the slides don't even fit at all and require some serious modifications.

Disagree completely.

Loose or not, racking the slide a million times is one the only few ways to fuse the slide to the frame properly regardless of their make and model to naturally smoothen the surface area and thereby minimizing the forthcoming wear that occurs from future combat use.

My original point was if someone wanted to slap on an after-market slide from those brands aside from the premium grade brands you are going to run into more problems since they slimmed down the frame on the Gold Match version.

If you start with the 5.1 with the regular made frame, you are more likely able to run into less problems (since most after-market slides are modelled on the original 5.1 design) and at least get some good use out of the original frame before it goes kaput. That being said, I did say that the original frames are no good for building a "race-gun".

I don't completely find this statement to be valid.

Mainly because if you're making this kind of distinction between the two platforms, you can't simply say that putting on a slide tailored for one gun will react the same way in the other gun with different a point-of-interaction.

When building a custom race gun I would say every piece plays an important role, you can't have a loose slide and say just cause the barrel is bone solid your accuracy wouldn't be affected. The inner barrel shifting issue can be addressed easily like you pointed out (you even made that make shift spring and o-ring to guide it), you don't need to buy a gold match just for the sake of a inner barrel support.

While I agree with you that "every piece plays an important role", yes I can say because "...the barrel is bone solid, your [my] accuracy wouldn't be affected."

If we're talking purely and simply about race guns, there's no real point in tuning hop ups because of the engagement distance. And even then, if you need to go further, you'd likely just switch out your BB weights anyways.

So the only thing that can point your BBs in the unintended direction is the actual barrel....

The purpose of that support structure is not to stabilize the inner barrel. It's purpose is to reduce the likelihood of your barrel chewing up the lugs on your slide thereby reducing the chance of your slide and barrel locking up.

Again here's what it does:

What it does is "...push the [outer] barrel back to it's natural state. This ensures the chamber is always lowered and clear of the slide. When the slide returns to battery, it will push the barrel back in to battery. As the slide moves backwards, the barrel will follow the slide back. With this method, even if your lugs are completely smoked, it's still functional ". -iLLusion.

and here's what I said:

I can't see why you discard this gun so easily to work from. You'd actually be downgrading if you use the old 5.1 since it doesn't have that inner barrel system that prevents the inevitable slide self-destruction. THat's a big plus to this gun....

To me the self destruction of a $1500 hardware is just...uncalled for. So why not invest in something that has the potential of minimizing this occurance right from the get go!?

You make a good argument about gas efficiency by asking questions like "blowback unit trip the disconnector too late? does the piston head seal properly? Does the recoil spring have too much tension? Doesn't the floating valve close too late?" surely enough these are all good questions to ask, but the most important thing is keeping the weight of the upper frame light. Meaning using a lightweight BBU, plastic loading nozzle, plastic floating valve etc. Then after you can ask the questions you had mentioned.

Dont dont do that.
Dont piggy back on an idea or a point that i've already made to you.
Stay and defend your original argument. That's what i want to see. Dont just cower behind mine. Dont just expand on my contentional argument to make a point that I've already pointed out to try and sweep your original argument under the rug. You've done it twice now. If that's the way you're going to proceed then you're right to end things right here and now.

Weight can play a role in gas efficiency, but again, I disagree with how important your making it out to be.

Every Glock that I built thus far, is always able to spit out the same amount (and sometimes more) of BBs regardless of slide weight. The Stock PLASTIC Glock slide (w/ stock plastic guts) was always a match with a heavier slide set up similar to the 1911 I built. And even those guns, had stock BBUs. i even put a STEEL Slide and it still matched the amount of BBs to spit out with the Stock. THe guy I was with found it "blasphemic..." (- Jon C.)

My point is this (...and I know I'm going to get a lot of flack for saying this and many, MANY people will disagree with me):

The level of importance of the internal components and understanding how to manipulate them far exceeds the importance of things trivial like weight reduction (as it pertains to gas efficiency and gas consumption).

I'm not going to use the 1911 video again for reference since it doesn't 100% match yours and mine's testing conditions but it's somewhat conducive (...like 5%). lol.

I would say a loose slide/frame is more important than that of a inner barrel guide. A overly lubricated hop-up rubber, regardless of how rock solid your inner barrel will throw your aim off completely. Or minor calibrations on your hop-up, or the dial coming loose upon the initial blowback action.

Again, the purpose of the inner barrel assembly is not for stabilizing the inner barrel as I stated above.

When I say that your inner barrel is rocking inside your outerbarrel, what I mean is that the hop up unit is not being supported properly by the frame and that the outerbarrel can not support the directional shifts it undergoes.

(...or you just forgot to tighten to those screws properly.)

On the point of lubricated hop up rubbers and such, those are all user error. And could be avoided with proper care.

Again, at 50ft engagement, you're unlikely to have any use of a hop up.

If you're talking about a swelled bucking due to the lube, then you're BB wont even fly out of your gun. Thus, the efficacy of the so called accuracy test would be inconclusive because of mechanical failure. And this would be the opposite if you bucking was "freshly" soaked. And whether the whatever component rattles or not (slide or barrel) would effectively be rendered excused as it pertains to accuracy.

In your Marui 1911A1, I wouldn't have gone with Creation. But that's just me. I'm not knocking your work either E. But I like to tend to stay far away from Creation.

TO be honest, I'm in completely agreence. But the inner frame that I wanted doesn't seem to exist anymore. And Brian isn't here to bug answers for regarding availability. I couldn't really find anything else for the 1911 frame. I purely just wanted it because the frame that I got with the gun was damaged (it was used).

This debate is going no-where. I am done replying to this. As, if anyone were to build a custom "race-gun" / Hi-Capa they would already know the key points we have both pointed out. We could talk about this for months back and forth and still have no outcome. You do you, and I'mma do me.

We both don't need each other's validation (or anyone else's).
I wasn't "e-liciting" (...see what I did there?) some sort of outcome from our conversation.

I was merely hoping to illicit some well thought out answers in order to further my knowledge in putting a gun together. you know...Maybe learning something new, for once in my old age??

...And who knows, maybe even change my perspective altogether.

But Agreed.
To each his own, I guess and we'll leave it at that.

[Sticksquad]

Does this roller on Slide Stop supposed to spin?


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