Stripped Hex Screw

ujiro · January 8th, 2009, 10:36

Hey, so I'm trying to open my Systema mechbox, and it uses hex screws (ie, screws that require hex or allen keys to open).

One is stripped so that the right size doesn't get enough friction and will sleep at each attempt to rotate it, but the next largest size doesn't fit.

Trying to get it off, so does anyone have some creative insight in to getting this thing off?

ex · January 8th, 2009, 10:39

Take your dremel and cut a slot in it..use a flat head screwdriver to pull it out.

m102404 · January 8th, 2009, 10:48

Lowes (or maybe Home Depot) has a small "stripped screw remover". It's saved my sanity more than once.

One side is a tapered drill that profiles the hole in the head to a set angle...setting it up for the other end, which is a reverse drill bit. Jam it in and run your drill in reverse...it'll grab (not designed to remove material but rather to dig in and catch) and spin the screw out.

The only hard part is finding the small set...there's lots of larger ones.

Takes about 5 seconds from start to finish.

It will not grab a screw shank if you snap the head off...it needs enough material left in the head for the reverse drill teeth to catch and hold.

ujiro · January 8th, 2009, 11:00

Thanks for the advice guys, was about to leave to go pick up that piece or go borrow a friends dremel if possible (I'm at school, don't have my dremel here), but a torx bit ended up working to get it off.

m102404 · January 8th, 2009, 11:04

Good stuff M...

Don't use that screw again! It'll just be worse for next time.

Styrak · January 8th, 2009, 11:05

I was just gonna say use a flathead or try a torx.

ujiro · January 8th, 2009, 11:10

Haha yeah, thanks Tys.

Next question; why does it seem that the piston head is not coming any looser despite countless turning of the screw in the centre of the front of it?

m102404 · January 8th, 2009, 11:12

You have to hold/jam the nut that's holding it in...the nut that's inside the piston.

Some nuts have a nub on it that indexes into the end of the piston (there's sometimes a slot for the nub). Others don't and it's a pain.

ujiro · January 8th, 2009, 11:13

Fair enough. Thanks for the help. First time I've ever changed out a piston head.

m102404 · January 8th, 2009, 11:19

What make is the piston/head?

ujiro · January 8th, 2009, 11:21

Original: Systema.

New: MASK (the sorbo one from Jugglez).

And on that note: is there a guide for the MASK piston head? The packaging comes with simply a piece of paper that says the name and what it is.

m102404 · January 8th, 2009, 11:34

I hope you bought the complete bearing kit...the other one is just the head and may not work with your nut.

Referencing the picture on Airsoftparts.ca

You take the white cylinder thing (right side of pic) and place the following, in this order onto it (wide end of cylinder down).
1. flat washer
2. thrust bearing
3. flat washer

* if one of the washers is wider than the other...put the wider one on first.
** if they have a grove on them...the groove should fit the bearings of the thrust bearing...so they sandwitch it.
*** put some grease on your fingers and give the thrust bearing a good rub...don't get any on the screw threads or the threads in the piston head

Place the screw up into the cylinder (from the bottom).

The whole assembly should now slide up into the piston...get it started and then push it in with a screw driver until the screw pokes out of the piston end.

Put one drop (or half a drop...don't need much) blue loc-tite on the screw threads.

Start screwing on the piston head...don't cross thread it (turn it counter clockwise until it "skips" the start of the threads and then start to screw it on clockwise).

Tighten it up...don't over tighten...on some it possible to crush/crack the cylinder or over stress the piston end.

Let it dry before firing it. Loc-tite needs the absence of air to dry...blobs just sitting on the surface take a long time to dry up.

Best of luck with your world beater!

ujiro · January 8th, 2009, 11:48

Having some issues, it seems like the washers are getting hung up on something on the way through the piston, and it seems like it is the first tooth of the piston (metal insert) that is just making a small obstacle. Any suggestions as to how to get past this?

m102404 · January 8th, 2009, 11:59

Use a different piston...

You could try just giving it a good tap to pop it past...but you don't want anything hanging up the assembly anyways. Or the piston walls either..if the bearing plates aren't freely rotating...it's not doing what it's supposed to be doing.

You could try to remove the tooth/rack, insert the bearing assembly and then reinstall the tooth/rack...

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January 8th, 2009, 10:36	#1
ujiro Trader rating Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Burlington, ON	Stripped Hex Screw Hey, so I'm trying to open my Systema mechbox, and it uses hex screws (ie, screws that require hex or allen keys to open). One is stripped so that the right size doesn't get enough friction and will sleep at each attempt to rotate it, but the next largest size doesn't fit. Trying to get it off, so does anyone have some creative insight in to getting this thing off? __________________ I love freedom and consequently America

January 8th, 2009, 10:39	#2
ex Wanna buy some Nod's? #StolenValour Trader rating Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Ottawa	Take your dremel and cut a slot in it..use a flat head screwdriver to pull it out. __________________ ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

January 8th, 2009, 11:00	#4
ujiro Trader rating Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Burlington, ON	Thanks for the advice guys, was about to leave to go pick up that piece or go borrow a friends dremel if possible (I'm at school, don't have my dremel here), but a torx bit ended up working to get it off. __________________ I love freedom and consequently America

January 8th, 2009, 10:48	#3
m102404 Tys Trader rating Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Toronto	Lowes (or maybe Home Depot) has a small "stripped screw remover". It's saved my sanity more than once. One side is a tapered drill that profiles the hole in the head to a set angle...setting it up for the other end, which is a reverse drill bit. Jam it in and run your drill in reverse...it'll grab (not designed to remove material but rather to dig in and catch) and spin the screw out. The only hard part is finding the small set...there's lots of larger ones. Takes about 5 seconds from start to finish. It will not grab a screw shank if you snap the head off...it needs enough material left in the head for the reverse drill teeth to catch and hold.

January 8th, 2009, 11:04	#5
m102404 Tys Trader rating Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Toronto	Good stuff M... Don't use that screw again! It'll just be worse for next time.

January 8th, 2009, 11:05	#6
Styrak Trader rating Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Saskatoon, SK	I was just gonna say use a flathead or try a torx. __________________ Airsoft Sales and Repair/Upgrade Services

January 8th, 2009, 11:10	#7
ujiro Trader rating Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Burlington, ON	Haha yeah, thanks Tys. Next question; why does it seem that the piston head is not coming any looser despite countless turning of the screw in the centre of the front of it? __________________ I love freedom and consequently America

January 8th, 2009, 11:12	#8
m102404 Tys Trader rating Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Toronto	You have to hold/jam the nut that's holding it in...the nut that's inside the piston. Some nuts have a nub on it that indexes into the end of the piston (there's sometimes a slot for the nub). Others don't and it's a pain.

January 8th, 2009, 11:13	#9
ujiro Trader rating Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Burlington, ON	Fair enough. Thanks for the help. First time I've ever changed out a piston head. __________________ I love freedom and consequently America

January 8th, 2009, 11:19	#10
m102404 Tys Trader rating Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Toronto	What make is the piston/head?

January 8th, 2009, 11:21	#11
ujiro Trader rating Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Burlington, ON	Original: Systema. New: MASK (the sorbo one from Jugglez). And on that note: is there a guide for the MASK piston head? The packaging comes with simply a piece of paper that says the name and what it is. __________________ I love freedom and consequently America

January 8th, 2009, 11:34	#12
m102404 Tys Trader rating Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Toronto	I hope you bought the complete bearing kit...the other one is just the head and may not work with your nut. Referencing the picture on Airsoftparts.ca You take the white cylinder thing (right side of pic) and place the following, in this order onto it (wide end of cylinder down). 1. flat washer 2. thrust bearing 3. flat washer * if one of the washers is wider than the other...put the wider one on first. if they have a grove on them...the groove should fit the bearings of the thrust bearing...so they sandwitch it. * put some grease on your fingers and give the thrust bearing a good rub...don't get any on the screw threads or the threads in the piston head Place the screw up into the cylinder (from the bottom). The whole assembly should now slide up into the piston...get it started and then push it in with a screw driver until the screw pokes out of the piston end. Put one drop (or half a drop...don't need much) blue loc-tite on the screw threads. Start screwing on the piston head...don't cross thread it (turn it counter clockwise until it "skips" the start of the threads and then start to screw it on clockwise). Tighten it up...don't over tighten...on some it possible to crush/crack the cylinder or over stress the piston end. Let it dry before firing it. Loc-tite needs the absence of air to dry...blobs just sitting on the surface take a long time to dry up. Best of luck with your world beater!

January 8th, 2009, 11:48	#13
ujiro Trader rating Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Burlington, ON	Having some issues, it seems like the washers are getting hung up on something on the way through the piston, and it seems like it is the first tooth of the piston (metal insert) that is just making a small obstacle. Any suggestions as to how to get past this? __________________ I love freedom and consequently America

January 8th, 2009, 11:59	#14
m102404 Tys Trader rating Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Toronto	Use a different piston... You could try just giving it a good tap to pop it past...but you don't want anything hanging up the assembly anyways. Or the piston walls either..if the bearing plates aren't freely rotating...it's not doing what it's supposed to be doing. You could try to remove the tooth/rack, insert the bearing assembly and then reinstall the tooth/rack...

Stripped Hex Screw

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