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Old May 20th, 2010, 20:16   #346
juicy
 
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Originally Posted by ILLusion View Post
That's not what I said. I said that if the first (several) shot(s) is WEAK, then it means the hammer spring isn't strong enough.

If your first shot is stronger than others, then it's operating completely fine.
Ahhhhh, THAT makes sense, lol. Yeah, that's what I thought was normal. You nearly turned my world upside-down, ILLusion.

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Double negative?

Yes, attribute it to differing brands.
Affirmative to the double negative. lolwut.

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Originally Posted by ILLusion View Post
Steel? Doubt it. The weight your feeling is lead filler in the aluminum casting mixture. Wash your hands after using. LOL.

Seriously though... I'm not sure specifically what KJW puts in their castings, but generally, when zinc/aluminum is cast, LEAD is the element used to add weight.
Steel - internals with magnetic properties? I'm pretty sure that means that they have some degree of steel in there... Just those internals though, everything else appears to be pot metal (well the slide is likely not - it's too light).

I suck at determining mass by comparing things without a scale... lol, so I did the best I could to determine why my sear hadn't worn down at all when I first took my KJW apart.

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Originally Posted by ILLusion View Post
This actually sounds like the sear disconnector isn't properly slipping behind the sear. That is, the hammer is cocked back, but you required 2 or more pulls before it releases. If your hammer is down after the slide closes, well... that's another issue altogether, and this would usually be followed by uncontrolled full auto fire until the sear catches the hammer again. This would be represented by the hammer being cocked back (unless you ran out of gas)
Beyond that, I can't comment much.. I've fixed several KJW's and hated every one of them. They're so chock full of problems.... sorry, got derailed there. Anyways, you know how much I dislike clones.
Yes, that's right. The first thing about the sear disconnector. So... since it's KJW and the parts aren't really all that TM compatible, should I just buy a new hammer and disconnector kit? Or would the disconnector kit alone get the job done?

Hey, be nice to my KJW, Brian. This one is actually pretty decent (the rest... not as great - sort of like how the M9 I got was basically falling apart before I started dropping some of the new KJW M9 parts in there). There's a reason why I kept this over the TM 5.1 I had. It took some work to get it running pretty good (damn "reinforced" loading nozzle/piston design was retarded, etc), but hey - it had many decent internals to start off with, IMO. Yeah... I know that won't change the way you feel about clones. Well, if it's any consolation, my Army MEU's barrel bushing disappeared on me. If I had just gotten a TM in the first place, the barrel bushing would have fit so tight in there that it wouldn't have been lost. There, a case of TM vs clone and TM definitely winning. You happy? lol
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Old May 20th, 2010, 22:13   #347
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FINALLY...I got the gun shooting properly, at least for now...Problems after problems after problems...

However here comes another problem: I can't aim with it lol.
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Old May 21st, 2010, 10:26   #348
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Originally Posted by juicy View Post
Steel - internals with magnetic properties? I'm pretty sure that means that they have some degree of steel in there... Just those internals though, everything else appears to be pot metal (well the slide is likely not - it's too light).
Hmm... if it's magnetic, then yes, there's definitely ferric content in it. Surprised it uses it, but at the same time, I guess that explains why they say it's CO2-ready.

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Originally Posted by juicy View Post
Yes, that's right. The first thing about the sear disconnector. So... since it's KJW and the parts aren't really all that TM compatible, should I just buy a new hammer and disconnector kit? Or would the disconnector kit alone get the job done?
TM disconnector kits will not work on a KJW. On quick and easy way to solve that is by filing a ramp behind the sear, so that enough room is given to allow the disconnector arm to slip behind.
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Old May 21st, 2010, 14:21   #349
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Some photos from HKShooters in HK on May 20th shoot.



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Old May 21st, 2010, 16:15   #350
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Brian... I don't get that. So file the sear down, so that the disconnector is able to more freely slip past when the trigger is pulled? Is that the idea?

OMFG, that's a lot of guns. I want all of them.
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Old May 21st, 2010, 16:54   #351
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When the gun is pointed away from you, the order should be like this (right side): trigger stirrup, disconnector "tab", sear, disconnector, right leaf spring. If the "tab" fails to get in between the stirrup and the sear, nothing will happen when you pull the trigger because the sear isn't moved at all. You may try filing a ramp at the bottom of the sear so that disconnector "tab" can slip up there easier.

Another cause maybe because the stirrup is positioned too far back. This pushes the disconnector back making it difficult/impossible for that "tab" to get to the right spot. If you have an adjustable stirrup you can set how far it sits. Else, try pushing in the stirrup a little.
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Old May 21st, 2010, 17:29   #352
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StrikeFreedom View Post
When the gun is pointed away from you, the order should be like this (right side): trigger stirrup, disconnector "tab", sear, disconnector, right leaf spring. If the "tab" fails to get in between the stirrup and the sear, nothing will happen when you pull the trigger because the sear isn't moved at all. You may try filing a ramp at the bottom of the sear so that disconnector "tab" can slip up there easier.

Another cause maybe because the stirrup is positioned too far back. This pushes the disconnector back making it difficult/impossible for that "tab" to get to the right spot. If you have an adjustable stirrup you can set how far it sits. Else, try pushing in the stirrup a little.
Hmm, okay. That makes a little more sense... but I'm still not getting it, lol. I'll take a peek sometime over the weekend and figure that out.
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Old May 23rd, 2010, 11:42   #353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juicy View Post
Brian... I don't get that. So file the sear down, so that the disconnector is able to more freely slip past when the trigger is pulled? Is that the idea?
Apparently you got the idea just right.

You can watch the action by removing the beavertail safety and watching it.
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Old May 23rd, 2010, 20:03   #354
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Yup, still haven't done that yet, lol.

Damn KJW was firing the occassional burst of full auto yesterday... at least the trigger is actually doing something now, though. Thinking that these problems (in addition to the fact that it's a clone and thus the sear/disconnector fit being retarded.) may be a result of me messing around with the TM leaf spring an excess of 50 times. Might it be time for me to get a new one? Or is the unhealthy looking hump in it okay?
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Old May 23rd, 2010, 20:15   #355
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If it fires bursts occasionally, and that you have only messed with the leaf spring, try bending the middle spring forward (towards muzzle). This will put more pressure on the sear so it won't disengage the hammer so easily.
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Old May 24th, 2010, 02:33   #356
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Originally Posted by StrikeFreedom View Post
If it fires bursts occasionally, and that you have only messed with the leaf spring, try bending the middle spring forward (towards muzzle). This will put more pressure on the sear so it won't disengage the hammer so easily.
Ah... perhaps when I was bending the left? the right? prong back to back off the disconnector slippage a bit... that affected the middle prong's tension on the sear. Oh well. Time to crack 'er open and take a look-see (finally).

Thanks. Just realized that this is the Race Gun Thread, not the Hi-Capa FAQ thread, lol. No wonder why I couldn't find any information pertaining to this when I was flipping through the pages...
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Old May 25th, 2010, 08:56   #357
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Originally Posted by juicy View Post
Damn KJW was firing the occassional burst of full auto yesterday... at least the trigger is actually doing something now, though. Thinking that these problems (in addition to the fact that it's a clone and thus the sear/disconnector fit being retarded.) may be a result of me messing around with the TM leaf spring an excess of 50 times. Might it be time for me to get a new one? Or is the unhealthy looking hump in it okay?
If it's firing in full auto, then the sear isn't engaging the hammer. This is usually caused by the middle prong of the leaf spring not applying enough pressure to the sear.
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Old May 27th, 2010, 22:15   #358
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Best pistol evar!!!!

Indeed! All pistols need EOtechs!!
maybe my Elcan would work better O.o

IK kimber upper with straight barrel and bushing, and TK kimber frame and TK grip, and some random scope mount I just got and a crappy ACM EOtech ;p

cant remember whats inside, the list is too long
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Old June 5th, 2010, 04:05   #359
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Anyways more from HKshooters sponsered by prohandgun.


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Old June 16th, 2010, 21:56   #360
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AS has a scope mount that replaces the slide stop. Since you don't have to pull the slide back to insert this, does that mean you can further short stroke the slide so it moves just enough (ie. 1cm) to chamber a BB?
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