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January 19th, 2011, 19:47 | #16 |
Iskaryot
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http://www.realsword.com.hk/produc_hj.htm
Just throwing this out there for those who will find it useful. ^^; |
April 27th, 2011, 09:48 | #17 |
Great Job
I must say, this was a very well written thread. Your explanation is exactly what I've been working on with one of my AEG's.
Thumbs up Boss! Share the knowledge..... |
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September 3rd, 2012, 21:51 | #18 |
formerly moogy
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Hello guys
I have a very interesting problem that I have spent HOURS trying to figure it out. I have the new machined aluminum gearbox shell that I have been working on for days. I shoot in semi and it cycles only once then it's stuck and I can not fire in semi or full. If I hit the gearbox I can fire again. I just put the gearbox back together with the gears, trigger, trigger switch, selector plate and the cut off lever. Like this I can see from where the piston would be. I noticed that the trigger block does the cycle but get stuck somehow. If i nudge it I hear a click and it falls back into place and I can fire again but it stays suck until i nudge it. Any ideas or suggestions?
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September 7th, 2012, 11:24 | #19 |
"bb bukakke" KING!
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pry the copper trigger prongs a little farther part... the shuttle is getting stuck between them and not resetting.
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September 7th, 2012, 12:02 | #20 |
formerly moogy
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I figured it out after... a good night sleep. I put a spacer on the pine where the spring attaches to the trigger block. This forces the trigger block to roll back down sooner and not get stuck...
What a mod...
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November 16th, 2013, 21:40 | #21 |
willing to perform services in a dark alley that may or may not leave you satisfied for a title. GFE = 1, looks = 2, BBFS for an extra $50.
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I am working on a gearbox for a friend and I am having this exact problem. Are there any techs who have found a way to eliminate or minimize this problem? should I suggest to him running a slightly more powerful battery?
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November 16th, 2013, 21:42 | #22 |
formerly moogy
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Have you tried me solution.
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November 16th, 2013, 22:14 | #23 |
willing to perform services in a dark alley that may or may not leave you satisfied for a title. GFE = 1, looks = 2, BBFS for an extra $50.
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I am a bit of a visual learner, a photo or ms paint description might help
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November 16th, 2013, 22:20 | #24 |
formerly moogy
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Send me a picture of your open gearbox and will draw the part on it.
Info@taktikairsoft.com
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November 16th, 2013, 22:50 | #25 |
willing to perform services in a dark alley that may or may not leave you satisfied for a title. GFE = 1, looks = 2, BBFS for an extra $50.
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I just got it back together lol
could you show me on a generic photo of a V.II gearbox I have a vague idea of what your talking about. increasing the return force of the trigger contacts? |
November 17th, 2013, 06:45 | #26 |
formerly moogy
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Just email me the picture
Thanks
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November 17th, 2013, 13:58 | #27 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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Cycle overlap is when you shoot semi and the gear train has so much momentum it brings the piston back part ways before coming to a stop.
If you have really bad cycle overlap, what you actually need is a neo magnet motor. The increased magnet strength REALLY helps the mechbox come to a stop faster. If you have bad cycle overlap with a neo magnet motor, you may need a lighter gearset or a different gear ratio. And never, under any circumstances, should you ever over-shim the gears to provide more resistance to the gear train. |
November 17th, 2013, 15:52 | #28 |
willing to perform services in a dark alley that may or may not leave you satisfied for a title. GFE = 1, looks = 2, BBFS for an extra $50.
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normal cycle is (zipp...pop)
when I have lock up I've found it was caused by a light/incomplete trigger pull (zipp...nada) after it locks up, the trigger has a slight clicking noise when depressed but does not engage the electric switch. I've found that switching to full auto solves the problem but I would like to eliminate it all together if possible. Is it possible I've installed this piece upside down? it is the part that engages the trigger when you switch the safety http://airsoftdepot.ca/catalog/produ...oducts_id=2218 as far as shimming, it is flawless as far as I can tell. I used modify shims and got the gears to float in the gearbox without rubbing against themselves or the gearbox shell. They are as tight as I can get them while still having a very slight amount of play. compression is 90% to 100% and fps deviation is 1-2fps its the most consistent shooting gearbox I've built thus far but the trigger lockup is driving me nuts! |
November 17th, 2013, 17:29 | #29 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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If the safety switch was upsidedown, you'd be able to shoot in safe
If your only issue is incomplete trigger pulls, you just need to learn how to shoot the gun lol You can't look at fixing the mechbox if the problem is the operator, right? The only other solution is installing an SW-comp that features complete cycling on semi so it finishes the shot even after you let go of the trigger. You should really only be encountering semi-lock after using full auto and the cycle stops at a weird spot. |
November 17th, 2013, 22:02 | #30 |
willing to perform services in a dark alley that may or may not leave you satisfied for a title. GFE = 1, looks = 2, BBFS for an extra $50.
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well you've guys have set my mind at ease a bit. Thanks for all the help.
The gearbox is working as it should. I'll tell him to lay off the twitchy finger. Last edited by localfreerider; November 17th, 2013 at 22:05.. |
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