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Old November 29th, 2009, 22:50   #1
d.j
 
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Outdoor Gearbox.

Alright, i've got a G&G m4 and i was looking at upgrading it for outdoor play. The stock gearbox is great, all reinforced and such so i don't want to fiddle with it. The only thing is it's shooting pretty low at 320 fps with .2's and i want more along the lines of 370 with .25's. Converting it into an spr, anyway i was online looking for a new gearbox that i can swap for outdoor play and i've come across a lot but i found one on velocityarms.ca. I think it's a custom built gearbox that is chrono'd at 400 fps for $70. The only thing is the parts are jg, now if i have to i will buy a systema gearbox but that alone with be $300 us, plus $100 for the motor and however much for shipping. What do you guys think/ suggestions? But i will say i'm not cracking the gearbox open to touch it, i want a new one.
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Old November 29th, 2009, 23:11   #2
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G&P Gearboxes are wicked good... I put one in an M14 and it was great! wasn't too expensive either
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Old November 29th, 2009, 23:13   #3
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G&P okay great, i'll look around for one of those.
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Old November 29th, 2009, 23:15   #4
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You don't need to get a new gear box to get the higher FPS for outdoor play. Just upgrade a few things ie. spring, etc. If your worried about your V2 gearbox breaking from the heavier spring then upgrade it with this....http://www.tacticalairsoftsupply.com...er-system.html. Guess it also depends on the kind of gearbox you already have in there to begin with. If it's not reinforced or has smaller bearings (like 6mm) it might be worth it. I'm just new to AEGs so that's all I've figured out so far. Might want to wait for some more experienced advice....
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Old November 29th, 2009, 23:18   #5
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http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol...l?prodID=25806

Here's one. It's deans wired but there's Tamiya wired ones as well
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Old November 29th, 2009, 23:26   #6
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If you plan on upgrading, you'll want to switch to deans anyhow


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http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol...l?prodID=25806

Here's one. It's deans wired but there's Tamiya wired ones as well
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Old November 29th, 2009, 23:36   #7
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haha okay thanks alot guys, i'll definitely check out those links.
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Old November 29th, 2009, 23:38   #8
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With outdoors you really have to compensate for things like wind and brush, that G&P from redwolf looks good. You wanna get some heavier ammo like .25 or .28 although a buddy of mine has had a mag of .4 and two .36 at the last five games with great success.
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Old November 29th, 2009, 23:41   #9
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G&P mechboxes were horrible for me...
I had a V2, every single part in it broke over 2 years except for the trigger, shell, and cutoff lever (I had the earlier 7mm version).
There isn't much option to go in the truly "work free" mechbox area. Even systema has the notorious piston shattering program.
If you are just using it intermittently, I would say... Buy a DBoys or JG complete off of ebaybanned, when it breaks, buy another one, and so on. They're cheap, like the $50-60 USD area. It should shoot ~380-400, probably will last a year or so... and just use your G&G motor, it should be okay.
(by the way, 400 with .20s usually is the limit. with 375 with .25s is like 420 with .20s)
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Old November 29th, 2009, 23:43   #10
d.j
 
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Originally Posted by yuhaoyang View Post
G&P mechboxes were horrible for me...
I had a V2, every single part in it broke over 2 years except for the trigger, shell, and cutoff lever (I had the earlier 7mm version).
There isn't much option to go in the truly "work free" mechbox area. Even systema has the notorious piston shattering program.
If you are just using it intermittently, I would say... Buy a DBoys or JG complete off of ebaybanned, when it breaks, buy another one, and so on. They're cheap, like the $50-60 USD area. It should shoot ~380-400, probably will last a year or so... and just use your G&G motor, it should be okay.
(by the way, 400 with .20s usually is the limit. with 375 with .25s is like 420 with .20s)
Oh okay i didn't know that, i just want enough power behind the bb to use the .25's so i guess it's 350 with .25's
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Old November 29th, 2009, 23:52   #11
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Actually, take that 1 year back. Depends on how often you play ect ect.. but actually, I would say stick to that VA mechbox.
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Old November 30th, 2009, 01:19   #12
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I thought G&P gearboxes were crap because of the gears stripping easily or something.

Anyways. OP, keep in mind that if you're shooting 370 on .25's you'll likely be considered a "sniper" and as a result will either have to shoot semi only or pin your gun to semi somehow (either using a MOSFET, or physically blocking automatic fire). Also the MED will be stricter, around 25 or 30 feet.

It's much better to be shooting 395 on .2's and using .25's (you'll be getting ~355-360 on the .25's) that way you won't be considered a sniper and you'll be allowed automatic fire if you need it and your MED will be around 15-20 feet.

I don't know how much mechanical knowledge you have but the other option could be to assemble the gearbox yourself (unlikely since you said you're wary of cracking open the gearbox). Just get a shell and stick with one aftermarket company for parts.

The drop in mechbox you should be getting is probably the SystemA Complete Mechabox (includes motor, $260 USD + free shipping from RedWolf).

Don't bother with the Energy or Revolution gearboxes cause they're way over your budget (with the energy it's $260 USD however doesn't come with a motor).
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Old November 30th, 2009, 01:23   #13
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I built a custom mechbox using modify parts...
It totaled to $400 just in parts inside the mechbox+motor, if I count that I paid for that fucked up G&P complete, and how it fried my CA motor, it would be $700.
Anyways, G&P gear shafts snap, the bevel gear shaft falls out, the piston is brittle, the spring guide coating flakes, the trigger contacts corrode easily, the selector plate snaps, the nozzle doesn't seal against BBs, and it isn't shimmed or lubed properly, ect ect.
It depends on what you want out of it. If you just want 400fps, then the JG one is cheap, and it'll do the job. When it breaks, throw it out and buy another.
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Old November 30th, 2009, 10:32   #14
m102404
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Outdoors in the cold...I'd stick with sub 350fps (better yet, 300fps) with 0.20's..

Outdoors in the regular season...I'd just buy a new G&P complete mechbox. I've seen issues with every mechbox....custom built cheap, customs built expensive, factory cheap, factory expensive, etc....

Bang for buck...it's cheapest if you figure out how to reshim and swap the spring on your existing mechbox. You're looking at about $30 worth of parts (if you need to buy a new spring and a new baggie of shims).

The out of pocket cost is one thing...and the JG/cheapo mechboxes are definitely attractive for that. But consider the "down-time" factor. The time it'll take to have a gun down and wait for a new mechbox, then the time/hassle to install it, fingers crossed that it works with out issues, etc... Not to mention how much it absolutely sucks-a&& to go to a game just to have your rifle barf on you.

In general...you do pay for quality. Either in the quality of the parts and/or the quality of the assembly/tweaking of it. Bang for buck I've found the G&P complete mechboxes to be a good deal. Makes me sick to spend $300+ on a systema...can't stomach the builds of the JG/cheapos. I have seen the various gear/piston/etc...issues, but I've seen the same on lots of others too...

Also keep in mind that your rifle is not just a single part. When you change the mechbox (either in FPS/Joule power or in ROF) you need to think of what else is required with your motor and battery as well. If your motor is going to be stressed pulling a much higher load at a different torque ratio...it's not going to last long. If your battery is mismatched for your setup, you're going to starving the other parts of power. If you goose a motor with a big battery and push it beyond it's optimal capacity...you'll have a dead motor sooner than you'd think.

Fortunately there's some pretty simple guidelines to those parts as well...a good motor (G&P M120, Guarder Infinite Torque Up, TM EG1000/700) and a good 8.4v/9.6v battery (Intellect, GP, Sanyo) are easy to find.

I cannot tell you how many guns I've seen that "don't work" but it's really just a matter of an insufficient battery or cheapo motor that's been killed by being pushed too hard.

Best of luck,

Tys
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Old November 30th, 2009, 14:33   #15
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+1 on G&P, they're tanks
G&P gears are notorious for breaking shafts, that's why I stress everyone to get the gears shimmed before even using it in one game.
Unshimmed, G&P gears last 1-3 games before breaking depending how you shoot.
Shimmed, the best I've seen is well over 120,000 rounds and they still weren't broken. The barrel was bent, the piston head was on the verge of catastrophic failure, and the piston was heavily worn.
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