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How does a zero trigger work?


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Old November 14th, 2009, 13:27   #1
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How does a zero trigger work?

i was looking around but couldn't find it. What does the zero trigger do and why would anyone buy it? Im looking for my gspec vsr10 parts and came across that.

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Old November 14th, 2009, 13:36   #2
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First off, please title your thread better next time

It has been edited.

The zero trigger system grants the user a lighter trigger pull but also adds higher internal efficiency when using a strong spring. When you put an extremely strong spring into a bolt action it creates an extreme amount of force when cocked, a force you have to somewhat fight through when pulling the trigger. The zero trigger mechanism relieves the user of this issue.

This is how I understand zero triggers at least, maybe someone else can add something.

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Last edited by TokyoSeven; November 14th, 2009 at 13:56..
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Old November 14th, 2009, 13:40   #3
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Not to mention the zero trigger system also eliminates your saftey which in my opinion is a negative. but hey i like to be safe.....

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Old November 14th, 2009, 14:23   #4
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Aftermarket high end trigger sets do the following:
1. Increase Durability
- they are usually made out of steel, brass (bushings) and precision cut parts
- high powered spring guns put a lot of stress on the trigger set...and stock pot metal just can't hold up to it

2. Improve feel
- the machined angles and precision surfaces typically result in smooth, predictable trigger pull
- imagine dragging a bag on the sidewalk...rough and jumpy. Now polish that concrete until it's mirror smooth...there's a lot less drag and an nice smooth pull

3. Adjustability
- some stock triggers are adjustable...others are not. High end triggers allow for precise, fine tuning of your trigger pull.

Mostly...they're for durability. Pop a 450fps spring into your gspec and start cranking off shots...the stock TM sear won't last long before it's basically sheared off by the force of the piston being pushed forward.

"Target" triggers are often built with the safety omitted...not a big deal for target shooting. Not having a safety on a "field" rifle is stupid.
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Old November 14th, 2009, 15:46   #5
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Safety must be removed to install upgrades in the rifle anyway.

On my M24, the trigger pull is so heavy, there is no need for a safety.
On my L96, I have a zero trigger and no safety. The trigger pull is light, but since it's a bolt action rifle, I chamber a round only when I get ready to engage and clear the rifle after a fight to remove tention in the spring. So again, no need for a trigger safety, as I very rearely walk with a loaded, ready to fire rifle.

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Old November 14th, 2009, 16:24   #6
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To answer your question:

A stock trigger unit will usually rely on a direct mechanical hold between the trigger and first sear.

The common practice for L96/APS-2 it to have a lever hold the piston at 90deg.
That lever is pivoting on an axis that is in the middle of the arm. The other end it held in place by a long lever that moves up-down. Moving it up puts it in the path of the first sear. Moving it down let the first sear pivot and release the piston.

In the stock unit, the safety is preventing that lever from moving down when engaged. The trigger pushes on the other tip of the lever to push it up, which makes the lever pivot on the pin and pushes the other end down (and firing).

In the upgraded unit, the safety is not present because the point where the trigger apply force on the second lever is moved in the place the safety was. This makes the force required to move the second lever a lot less (and making the trigger pull lighter). The size and ratio of the levers is also changed a little to make the force from the spring easier to hold. The trigger box is also made from two metal or fiberglass plates, making it a lot sturdier in a front-back axis (reason why stock boxes break).

VSR-10 stock triggers work a bit different because the first sear pivot point is attached to the second sear, moving the whole first sear down when the trigger is pulled. This makes a lighter stock pull, but the sear has to be angled back because of that. The joint between the piston and sear is at 45deg and uses the piston a lot faster because the sear has to slide on the piston at every shot.

The upgraded VSR-10 trigger works in the exact same way as L96/APS-2 triggers. That is the reason why it comes with a special piston to replace the stock one, the joint is made at 90deg and thus very sturdy.
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Old November 14th, 2009, 18:45   #7
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Zero triggers are lame... V-triggers are much better (They correct the piston-mis-alignemnt and increase your consistency quite a bit more)
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Old November 15th, 2009, 13:10   #8
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Amos I plan to aid a teammate with Type 96 upgrades where can I locate a V-trigger?
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Old November 15th, 2009, 17:59   #9
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Originally Posted by Con Murder View Post
Amos I plan to aid a teammate with Type 96 upgrades where can I locate a V-trigger?
PDI did not make V-trigger for Type 96 only APS2 series.

For PDI parts visit
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Old November 15th, 2009, 18:06   #10
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I never was bothered by my CA M24 not having a safety (the stock one is pathetic anyways), I have a firm trigger pull (Fox_111's M24 is about the same, not as heavy as he says since I worked on it) on it, even when shooting 500fps, and never worried about it going off, because it never has when cocked. There are numerous times I'll load a round and aim at a guy, only to have him move away and I gotta get going, I'll just sling it as is and move on.

My KJW M700 on the other hand, I used it one game, had it slung, cocked and locked with safety on, at one point I think a small branch got in the trigger guard while the rifle was on my back, it fired. I pulled it off to find the safety was still on. Baffling at the max since I was unable to fire it with the safety on later. Is like the branch tapped the safety off, fired the gun, then put the safety back on.
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