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Old October 12th, 2009, 17:08   #16
MoreToasties
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L473ncy View Post
EDIT: Wow.... that's probably one of the longest posts I've ever made.
Ouch, my eyes.
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Old October 12th, 2009, 18:03   #17
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Lolyup, as soon as I saw the bit about being interested in g&g I thought it was Adam west/no username, but the mods haven't done anyhing yet so I guess he's legit?

I logged in Friday night and saw all the idiotic posts that user had made and decided he was my new target and by Saturday he was gone heheh another one bites the dust!
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Old October 12th, 2009, 19:09   #18
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As everyone has said, GBB tends to be unreliable and inconsistent in cold weather

@pusangani, what's wrong with G&G? I know this is something off tangent so I apologize. I think I only saw that user's posts about biodegradable bb's and I got nervous when he mentioned "shooting in my backyard"
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Old October 12th, 2009, 19:48   #19
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@pusangani, what's wrong with G&G?
I dont think he is saying there is anything wrong with G&Gs, only that AdamWest/nousername was interested in them as well.
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Old October 12th, 2009, 23:51   #20
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^ bingo!
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Old October 13th, 2009, 05:14   #21
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Its a riot to see the flippant remarks made by them noobs, an elitist I'll be if they stay away!

So Indiana, I found that my Sig 552 worked fine in the cold (-5 C) but that included wind chill. Next day it was a few degrees higher with no wind and I feared it would crack as everything seemed stiff and untrustworthy. Basically I tried and chickened out but my gun is still smoking sexy and shoots like a charm
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Old October 13th, 2009, 06:09   #22
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remember as metal gets cold it shrinks which means your tolerences will be tighter. If you already have a gun that is tight that means you will be creating more friction. Think of it as starting up a vehicle cold, it takes a few seconds to get the oil going and warm up right? now think about shutting that vehicle off ever 3-4 seconds, wait 20 seconds, and start it back up for 3-4 seconds... the wear and tear on it is going to be huge in the cold weather.


Your aeg is will not experience it as bad a motor but ... well lets just say tomorrow is the last day for our small club here. 1 no daylite when we normaly play 2... I only want one Ak47 not 2 ak23.5's *half a 47*
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Old October 13th, 2009, 06:55   #23
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Old October 13th, 2009, 07:58   #24
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Missed the V5 and the V8

V5 was plastic, and used in the Uzi.

V8 was used in the type 89, it was the first mechbox with a reliable 3-round burst feature

Quote:
Originally Posted by L473ncy View Post
Again I'm sorry about accusing you of things. It's just this week has kind of been bad for trolls and assholes who "just don't get it" (that they should probably listen to the people who have the experience). Heck I wouldn't call myself experienced either. I just sling pieces of plastic at other people, I let my gundoc do repair work for me. Not to mention the time that you joined and posted was pretty much right after some noob who wouldn't listen and was trolling got banned. So again sorry.

I'm sure there was a Mechbox FAQ in the FAQ section but it's really cluttered and theres a lot of information there. Anyways, this is from what I understand about the mechboxes so information may not be entirely accurate and is pretty generalized so without further ado,

V1: This is the first electric mechbox that came out. As such guns like the FAMAS (one of the first Electric airsoft guns) use it. Supposedly they're prone to breaking (as it's the first generation and iteration of what would become the "AEG revolution") and harder to find replacement parts for.

Note: before "classic" airsoft guns were pretty much the same as paintball guns (except sling 6mm BB's) in that they were powered with an external tank and line. Electric guns came out and made it more realistic, no external line/tank, it was all contained in the gun itself, the battery powers the motor, which spins the gears which pulls back the spring and when it releases pushes the piston forward transferring energy into the BB which shoots out the barrel. See? All contained in the gun itself. The new ones are GBBR's and are pretty new. I'd like to try one out but I want to see if theres any problems before I jump on the GBBR boat. It's most likely the next evolution in airsoft since you get a "blow back" action however I'll stick to my AEG for now.

V2: This is by far probably the most common mechbox. M4/16 and MP5's are the main ones that use this. I believe it's the second iteration of the electric gearbox (as it's a V2). Really common and a lot of problems from the V1 got fixed. There are many aftermarket parts available and many companies to choose from (Deep Fire, Guarder, Prometheus, SystemA, Modify, etc.) Honestly I don't see this going any time soon. Lots of gundocs who know it and have/can work on it

V3: Probably the second most common version. AK, and G36 are the big models that use this version. Supposedly more hardy to cold stress however it's still not advised to play with one of these out in the cold. Lots of aftermarket parts and, again lots of gundocs who know it and have/can work on it.

V4: PSG-1, that's all I know pretty much, very uncommon especially to find one in Canada.

V5: I don't think any guns use this, the number may have been skipped.

V6: P90 and Thompson. Not very common however they're REALLY durable and are very unlikely to break on you. Hard to find a P90 or Thompson though although there are a few up in the Classifieds from time to time.

V7: M14. Really hard to work on unless you have lots of manual dexterity or 4 hands. Haven't heard much about it other than that though.

Hope this helps you out. Just remember this. Upgrade the player not the gun. You could have the best gear available but still get whooped by other people. Also don't get a clearsoft from Walmart or Canadian Tire or whatever they're crap. Kind of hypocritical to my last sentence right? Well there is a minimum investment required (not to mention Walmart crap is going to most likely break on you in the first ~1000 rounds or so and even then uses non standard parts so you can't repair). For me I say the minimum investments is about $500 for baseline gear (BDU's, mask, gun, a few mags and some sort of vest or chestrig to hold your stuff) then another $400-500 over the next few months (killrag, radio, more mags, basically "extras").

It's OK to borrow your first few games but at least try to make an effort to get most of the gear required. It's one thing to show up and say "I forgot my mask at home" or "I need to borrow one or two mags" but it's an entirely different ballpark if you come without anything and basically need everyone to share their, mags, extra mask, etc. However don't push it too much don't come to every game and say "I need to borrow your mask again". After a while you should get an idea if you like the sport or not and either pack up and sell your gun (if it's a high quality one (TM, CA, G&P etc.) it will retain a lot of value (eg. you buy for $550 sell it for $525) however if it's a Kraken or something like that the value depreciates A LOT eg. buy for $200 sell for ~$120))

Another option is going to a surplus store and picking up BDU's and ask on your local club forum if someone is willing to rent you a gun/equipment for the day. You don't have to buy/use a crap gun and get to enjoy a high quality working gun (hopefully), AND you can get a taste of what the sport is about (try before you buy).

EDIT: Wow.... that's probably one of the longest posts I've ever made.
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Old October 13th, 2009, 15:34   #25
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Then V1 through V8 are nestled here thanks to THE GUY, wanna hero cookie?
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Old October 14th, 2009, 14:02   #26
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Originally Posted by Kokanee View Post
@Indianajohns: http://www.mechbox.com
Awesome site, thank you.

Thanks a ton for clearing all that stuff up.
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Old October 14th, 2009, 18:12   #27
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Originally Posted by Con Murder View Post
Then V1 through V8 are nestled here thanks to THE GUY, wanna hero cookie?
don't forget about the V9, used in the new SOPMOD M4s.



Lmao, sorry guys, cant help myself :P
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Old October 25th, 2009, 01:58   #28
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Sorry to bump this back up, but I just remembered to ask this.

Are there any parts I can replace (not that I'm gunning to do that, but if I decide the need is there.) that will make my gun more cold tolerant? Like stronger gears or something?

Edit: And I'll try and get AV'd sometime. I'm just really busy right now.
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Old October 25th, 2009, 02:00   #29
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Originally Posted by Indianajohns View Post
Sorry to bump this back up, but I just remembered to ask this.

Are there any parts I can replace (not that I'm gunning to do that, but if I decide the need is there.) that will make my gun more cold tolerant? Like stronger gears or something?
The biggest issue with a standard V2 mechbox in the cold is breaking your shell, up at the front by the air nozzle. This isn't a overly expensive part, and the risk can be lowered by either buying a good brand to start with, Installing a sorbo pad, using a lower FPS spring or buying a gun that uses a V3 mechbox.
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Old October 25th, 2009, 02:01   #30
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If it's an armalite they've got things you can put on that brace your mechbox. lemme see if I can find the link.
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