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Old September 12th, 2009, 18:25   #1
henoch
 
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The right type of lubricant

Im looking for an all-airsoftpurpose lubricant or grease, for making anyhitng slick. I want one that can be bought at canadian tire or walmart (dont want to order online). i be using it for a lot of different things and i don't care about the price. another question. how rough would sandpaper have to be to remove spray paint on an airsoft gun without leaving any traces or scratches.
any advice for either of these questions would be helpful.
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Old September 12th, 2009, 18:33   #2
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For oil, RC shock oil at hobby shops, various thicknesses, go for 10 or 20 weight ig they have. For grease, hit up Canadian Tire in the garage door section, they have tubes of white lithium grease for $5, use that for gears, etc.
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Old September 12th, 2009, 18:37   #3
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Theres different types of lubricants for everything.

Motor oil is a lubricant and used in car engines.
White/Lithium grease metals and stuff like that
Silicone Oil for rubber products

There is no such thing as a general lubricant that can be used on different things that I'm aware of.

Also never use WD-40 as a lubricant. I actually found this out pretty recently but you're not supposed to use it as a lubricant because it's actually supposed to be used to strip off rust. However a lot of people do use it as a lubricant.
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Old September 12th, 2009, 19:13   #4
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As far as I know about removing paint with sandpaper, if its plastic that have been painted, with sandpaper... you cant do a thing about it, if you take the sand paper too rough (like 150-200) it'll leave some pretty nasty marking, but if you use sandpaper thats too fine (400 and more), it will just get dirty and wont be able to sand anything very VERY fast.

You may be able to do something with paint thinner, but i don't know enough about it to give you any advice that would be usefull.

If its metal that has been painted, you MAY be able to work something out, by using some metal grade fine and very fine sandpaper, but even after that, you'll need to do a polishing job. And the best way to do it is by using a cotton wheel (i don't actually know how its called) and, depending on the ''toughness'' of your metal part, some polishing paste.

But if there is a lot marking or ''parts'' fixed on what you want to sand (like a rail) you wont be able to do anything good and it will end up looking like if you did a dry brush job on it, leaving paints in the ''deepest'' parts and with the ''top'' parts clean.

Last edited by Magus; September 12th, 2009 at 19:17..
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Old September 12th, 2009, 20:40   #5
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paint thinner melts plastic, i've been told to use castrol super clean, and possibly brake fluid.
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Old September 12th, 2009, 20:59   #6
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If you have an AEG w/ a plastic receiver, you need to accept that you will never be able to strip all the paint off, unlike a metal receiver.

Your best bet is to disassemble your AEG, and take some steel wool to each part one at a time. You're not looking to remove all the paint completely, just take off any "texture" left behind by previous coats and to make the surface uniform. Then you'll want to wash these parts off in a sink, let them air dry and reassemble the next day.

Once your AEG is back together, hang it up w/ a wire coathanger and block the muzzle and magwell so paint doesn't get inside. Then spray your AEG w/ thin coats of Krylon Camo Black.

You should end up with something that looks as "stock" as you're likely to get.

Hope that helps.
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Old September 12th, 2009, 21:33   #7
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If you want lube for the mechbox you can buy locally you can always check out your local sex shop and get some anal lube.
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Old September 12th, 2009, 22:09   #8
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Also never use WD-40 as a lubricant. I actually found this out pretty recently but you're not supposed to use it as a lubricant because it's actually supposed to be used to strip off rust. However a lot of people do use it as a lubricant.
People did that? wow... I was always told to use it only on metal to help loosen bolts/screws and to help take off oil/grease.
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Old September 12th, 2009, 22:12   #9
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If you want lube for the mechbox you can buy locally you can always check out your local sex shop and get some anal lube.

sigged for truth :P
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Old September 12th, 2009, 23:08   #10
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WD-40 stands for Water Displacement #40 it was originally meant to displace water off of electrical things... at least that is what I've been told.

For awesome greases check out

www.airsoftparts.ca and check out ARS Sticky-G and cylinder grease.. I've been using these lately and they are fantastic.
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Old September 13th, 2009, 11:28   #11
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WD-40 stands for Water Displacement #40 it was originally meant to displace water off of electrical things... at least that is what I've been told.

For awesome greases check out

www.airsoftparts.ca and check out ARS Sticky-G and cylinder grease.. I've been using these lately and they are fantastic.
+1 on ARS Sticky-G. Great stuff.

I also have used SuperLube for many years.
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Old September 14th, 2009, 10:38   #12
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After not being able to find superlube anywhere in barrie I gave up. For those of you who do not know what the hell superlube is, its a syntetic based lube that contains PTFE and is probalby the best AEG gearbox gear and piston/cylinder head lube available. You can use it everywhere in a gearbox and wont turn grungy looking like lithuim grease.

Anyways the stuff is pretty hard to find but today I was wandering trough the parts department of my dads GM dealer when I spot this tube of AC delco syntetic lube, it looked exactly like the 3 oz tubes superlube comes in. I tore off the packageing to find super lube written under it.

So if your looking for the stuff go to your local GM dealer and ask for part #10953437

Retails for 13$ a tube, one tube should last you a pretty long time too
If you want something "all purpose", this is it. works well on everything, metal, rubber and plastic!
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Old September 14th, 2009, 12:41   #13
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superlube for gears and rc silcone damper oil for those with rubber parts.
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Old September 14th, 2009, 16:03   #14
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I've used Superlube to lube entire AEG's. It's too thick for GBB/NBB guns though. While you can use it for most AEG's, you're better off using specific types of lube for various parts. Kinda of like you could use engine oil in a manual transmission (in some anyway), but proper gear oil will work much better.

A list of what I've used for several years in AEG's and they work very well.

Superlube: Piston Oring, piston and cylinder piston rails, tappet plate, nozzle, piston and spring guide ball bearings.

Super O Lube (different from Superlube, much thicker): Cylinder head. Use mostly on highly upgraded guns for a better seal. Not sure how much of a difference it makes but seems to do some better sealing at higher FPS.

Locktite White Lithium grease: All gears, gear bearings and bushings, antireversal latch, trigger.

10 weight Silicone shock oil: light coating on the trigger switch slide, hopup bucking/sleeve assembly. Use the odd time on the safety switch.
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Old September 14th, 2009, 16:33   #15
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10 weight Silicone shock oil: light coating on the trigger switch slide, hopup bucking/sleeve assembly. Use the odd time on the safety switch.
I avoid ANY conductive oil near the trigger switch.. any oil gets in there it'll cause MASSIVE fowling of the contacts...

Aaaand I'd avoid using oil on the hop-up rubber, silly oil tends to swell hop-up rubbers (depending on material) and impregnating them with oil... making the whole hop-up deign useless (Oiling something that relies on friction to work)
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