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G&P Metal body switching?

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Old May 19th, 2009, 10:09   #1
StripesReaper
 
Join Date: May 2009
G&P Metal body switching?

Greetings and salutations to you from the similiar-climate-like Finland!

I have a problem that is difficult for me yet probably easy for you people. I am no airsoft "blacksmith", I have ruined one G&P M16A3 and it is spread in pieces all over my room (thanks to my initiative acting and lousy repairing skills since I haven't found any kind of instructions).

Well then, I have taken my gearbox out of my G&P M4 and now I'm suposed to switch it into another metal body... The problem is... How on earth does the fire selector go on again? I tried for hours solving this mystery but the gearbox just didn't fit in after I tried. I have spent hundreds of euros.. nearing to 600 euros by now on spare parts because I am a LOUSY airsoft "blacksmith" so detailed instructions would be nice.

Usually I would send my weapon to be fixed: "no problem!", but there is a problem...The problem is I have a scenario in a month and I don't trust the guys at a certain shop on delivering it back to me in time...

So the options are...

1. Help me solve the mystery of the fire selector
2. Force me to buy a new M4. :banghead:

Pictures would be appreciated aswell, and if someone wishes I can take pictures of my weapon too to help solving this problem.

Thank you. *Bow*
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Old May 19th, 2009, 13:49   #2
Azathoth
 
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I am a little confused. Are you talking about the fire selector plate on the gearbox or the safe/semi/auto selector on the outside of the body?

On the inside of the body take a allan Key and push out the dummy selector on the Right side of the body, usually the fire selector is held in place by a screw on the inside of the body unscrew it and done.

You can find a TM M733 take down tutorial video that should help you on mechbox.com
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Old May 19th, 2009, 14:10   #3
StripesReaper
 
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In the m733 video on mechbox.com he didn't seem to even touch the fire selector.

http://www.mechbox.com/m4m16/m733-disassembly.html

I'm meaning on how to reattach the fire selector? The one that you flip to change from safe to semi or to full auto.

Maybe I should post some pictures...


1. In the first picture is the piece rounded with a red circle, I'm trying to figure out which way this goes in.

2. The picture of the metal body.

3. That way I'm trying to attach it, but when I attach it that way, it's too stiff and the fire selector wont move. But when I loosen the screw, the fire selector moves but the metal piece doesn't.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg helpmeee1.jpg (111.8 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg metal body2.jpg (144.4 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg thisishowimattachingit.jpg (145.3 KB, 3 views)
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Old May 19th, 2009, 15:22   #4
m102404
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There's really only one way to attach the selector disk to the selector lever. If you look closely at the other side (the side that is facing down on the table in the first pic) you'll see a semi-circle/dome indent on the disk. That should match up with the stub on the selector lever. Basically, if the arm of the lever is down (semi-auto position), the disk is up. In your third pic, the disk is pretty much in semi-auto position...the lever should be pointed down.

If the stub on the selector lever doesn't fit nicely into the indent...you're going to have a wonky selector. The fit should be tight, but not that you need much force to push the two together (you'll strip the screw hole or split the lip of the indent if you force it).

When tightened up...the selector should move relatively easily from position to position. If not, check that the rim of the disk/indent is a good fit to the hole in the body (I've had a few that weren't really round and would bind in the hole).

Good luck,

Tys
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Old May 19th, 2009, 15:32   #5
Drake
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Agree with m102404. Also there's usually a spring-loaded pin or ball-bearing underneath the selector, so it "clicks" into each position. Make sure you re-inserted that properly (specially the pin) or it'll get locked into the holes on the receiver and you won't be able to move it.

And what did you break on the gun? It looks okay in the pics.
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Old May 19th, 2009, 15:47   #6
m102404
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Oh...good eyes...

From the parts in the first pic...you're missing the tiny/tiny little spring that sits in the hole of the selector lever. The pin goes onto of the spring and, as said, clicks into each of the position holes on the body. Hopefully it hasn't dropped out and it's still in the selector lever.

If you've lost that spring...good luck fiding a replacement. However you can use a little bit of silicone wire insulation that's springy...but won't be the same as a spring. (a tiny dab of grease keeps the spring and pin in the lever while you're putting it together).
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Old May 20th, 2009, 08:05   #7
StripesReaper
 
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Thanks for clearing that up, seems to me I actually were doing it right... but it wasn't the problem in my skills, it was the problem in the metalbody. The hole in the crane was too small but I solved the problem and I now have my gearbox in, yuippee!

Unfortunately now I have another problem with the metalbody and would ask for your opinions on what to do.

The wireing wont fit back into the cranestock because the metalbody is missing this hole which the wires are suposed to go through.

So, should I drill a hole to it or what? I'm open for suggestions before I'll go medieval on it.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg New metalbody.jpg (94.3 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg old metalbody.jpg (89.2 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg redlined old metalbody.JPG (64.6 KB, 4 views)
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Old May 20th, 2009, 09:23   #8
m102404
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There's a couple of good threads around here already about rear wiring or setting up a crane stock.

Basically you can either run the wires along the outside of the receiver stub (at the 6 o'clock position). Between the stub and the stock pipe...if there is a channel cut into the stock pipe. You may need to file down the stub so there's enough room.

Or

You can cut up into the receiver stub and run the wires inside the stub and through the stock pipe that way.

The first way is cleaner, neater and less work...but if you don't have a stock pipe with the channel, you're out of luck.

Tys
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Old May 21st, 2009, 10:05   #9
StripesReaper
 
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Ok, thanks. I quess I'll just drill the hole, but that'll be after the scenario.

Thank you guys for your help, I'm very satisfied on this forum and intend on spending more time here from now on. Airsoftforums.com didn't really warm my heart. :sad:

Now, I have my LAST question... How do you take the pin off from the triggerguard? Picture below along with the picture of my M4 in playable condition.
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File Type: jpg howtoremove.jpg (118.4 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg Here she is.jpg (88.2 KB, 8 views)
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Old May 21st, 2009, 10:22   #10
m102404
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DON"T just wack it with a hammer/punch...you stand a good chance of snapping your body/trigger guard if you do that.

Use either a proper pin punch (the punch is cylindrical and not tapered like a finnishing nail punch) that is the right diameter. Since I can never find mine ...I usually end up using a cut off allen key.

Place a piece of soft wood (i.e. pine) under the trigger guard. Or a piece of hardwood with a hole drilled in it. This will be the backer that supports the trigger guard as you punch out the pin. Be sure that the trigger guard is laying flat on the backer...and that the body/etc... isn't touching it or the sturdy surface you're working on. The punch needs to be a good fit. It CANNOT be too small or you're just going to drive it into the center of the roll pin.

Some roll pins are tapered on both ends...some are just tapered on one. Take a close look...obviously, drive it out in the opposite direction it was put in.

Align your punch and give it one sharp tap with a metal hammer (not a 20oz framing hammer, not a rubber mallet...a 10oz finish hammer or a regular 16oz hammer works well). If the pin moves...you're good. If it's really stubborn, check that your punch is really big enough, that your backer is fully supporting the piece, that you're properly aligned...and hit it harder. It should move. If it doesn't...turn it over and try hitting it from the other side.

A little penetrating oil might help.

If it's really bad...I've used a socket as a backer and a punch (it was a cut off allen key ) in a wood block. I juggled it all into a vice and sqeezed the pin out. A royal pain in the ass...but it works.

Use a backer when you're putting it back into your new receiver. Work on a solid table/bench. File the ends of the pin so there's a taper and no burrs.

Best of luck...
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Old May 21st, 2009, 10:53   #11
StripesReaper
 
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Awww... I already had my battlehammer ready... Oh well.

Thanks for the detailed instructions, I'll try that later when I have the time.
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