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Old March 3rd, 2009, 12:06   #16
Jimski
 
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personnaly I don't like Krylon.
I've used tons of different paints and Krylon aren't very good, they melt away like nothing and the color range sux.
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Old March 3rd, 2009, 15:50   #17
Trapper1
 
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Sweat will eat it away a bit especially on the stock since you hold your cheek to it But on the receiver this should not be a problem. Again it comes down to surface preparation, the cleaner the part the, the better the paint will bond, the better it will hold up. It is just paint after all, not a parkerized finish.
I think the color selection is good. Black, Brown, Tan, and OD green. What other colors do you need for airsoft?
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Old March 3rd, 2009, 15:57   #18
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I think the color selection is good. Black, Brown, Tan, and OD green. What other colors do you need for airsoft?
Coyote Brown! Their brown is way too dark and the tan is too light to get away with it being a brown. Other than that I love Krylon Fusion Camo. As for sweat eating it, the only time I have seen worn paint in a stock is when its really old and naturally worn, when the surface wasn't prepared properly, or when it was used before the paint cured. I find Krylon can take up to a week to cure properly so it doesn't peel or anything. I painted my motorcycle with Krylon tan but it started to peel around the exhaust (on the plastic side panel covering the exhaust), I repainted it after a light sanding with Krylon Fusion and I hope it fares better...still too cold to ride.
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Old March 3rd, 2009, 16:26   #19
MadMorbius
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I was sure I posted a full tutorial on this at some point...
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what if it model after his?
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Old March 3rd, 2009, 21:50   #20
RockinShaun
 
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If you just want the selector switch markings I found a picture of the ones I wanted on the internet and printed it Photo quality and took it to Sign O rama pretty much any sign making store should be able to do the same. I got them to print it off for me in vinyl stickers. The vinyl stickers I got were just the markings in colour not painted clear stickers. I just wiped down the area with alcohol pads applied the decal and then used a hairdryer on low to seperate the vinyl from the clear screen the decals came on. It was similar to but a lot easier then the stickers that come with a model building kit. It looks great very durable I haven't had any peeling or chips on the first one I did and its around 1 year old with lots of field time. Best part is my gun is a MP5 i got a 8 x 11 page for each side each with 8 decals and it only cost me about $30 and 20 min to apply
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Old March 3rd, 2009, 23:21   #21
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When i'm painting stuff (like anything) and it had a decal or a marking i don't want painted i tape over it. yup that's what masking tape is for.
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Old March 4th, 2009, 03:30   #22
sortie39
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i m feeling so regretful that i pained those clears .....otherwise i can show them off shooting in public....
so for me ,keep evything clear!!
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Old March 4th, 2009, 10:47   #23
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What i do is first of all, Take the entire gun apart or at least the remove the parts to be painted. Before painting, i would wipe down the surfaces with alcohol pads to remove dirt, grease, oil, etc, that could fubar your project.
Paint, i would recommend the krylon camo paint from crappy tire (AKA Canadian tire).

For the trades i have come up with this solution but you need a pretty steady hand. Fist sand down the area on the magwell where the decal is. otherwise it will kinda show through the paint as a raised area and look shitty. Then you find a picture of the firearm with the trades you want and carefully Draw them onto your painted reciever with a white ( or other easy to see color) pencil crayon.

Once this looks to your satisfaction, very very carfully engrave the trades using a handheld DREMEL ROTARY TOOL. Don't fuck up cause if you do you just ruined a receiver.

p.s not sure but you could check to see if an engraving shop, like the ones you see in the mall will do plastic. Probably not tho

Good luck
Been having some trouble with my internet and thought I'd posted, but I guess it vanished into that singularity where my ISP sends non-spam emails.

Laser engraving has become very popular for trophy shops...
The only thing you would need to do is to provide some reasonable evidence that the gun had the trade on it already, and you're restoring it and not just ripping it off...

You could just take a digital pic of the trade, convert to black and white, clean it up and deskew it and scale it to the correct size.
A laser engraver shouldn't have any problem burning it into the surface for a nice embossed effect. It could be done before or after painting and on metal or plastic receivers.

I've used higher power lasers to burn part and serial numbers as well as branding parts with a logo. It does a really tidy job, very crisp. Plastic and paint don't require more than about a 25 watt laser though. Very common in trophy shops these days for engraving plastic and wood.
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Old March 4th, 2009, 21:31   #24
Trapper1
 
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Hmmm, I didn't know you could laser engrave plastic but that makes sense. It's a pretty good idea, maybe ill try it next time.
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