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First spring change.

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Old April 10th, 2013, 03:28   #1
nichtessen
 
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First spring change.

It was going ok till it was time to put new spring in and was about to close it and it exploded every where! Took me an hour or so to find all the parts and then another 30mins to line everything up again. I finally just got it back together and tested it out before putting it back into the frame of the gun. It fires on any mode even safety... I noticed I missed a spring to latch around the trigger is this the problem or is it something more??
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Old April 10th, 2013, 03:31   #2
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Assuming you have a V2, in the far right corner of the mechbox there is a little plastic latch secured on with a screw. Did you take this off?
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Old April 10th, 2013, 03:45   #3
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your selector was just not properly installed when you put the mechbox in
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Old April 10th, 2013, 03:51   #4
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Yes everything is important.....
There aren't random spare parts in a mechbox.
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Old April 10th, 2013, 04:02   #5
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I believe it's a v3 mech box. In the morning I'm going to re-open it and make sure the spring get's latched around and maybe find a step by step for the full trigger assembly and the selector switch inside the mechbox.
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Old April 10th, 2013, 04:03   #6
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what platform and what brand?
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Old April 10th, 2013, 04:10   #7
nichtessen
 
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Cyma AKM full metal/wood. Gearbox is full metal nothing plastic which I think means V3
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Old April 10th, 2013, 04:14   #8
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CYMA Gearbox ver.3 dissasemble pt.1 - YouTube
and a bunch of manuals here
http://www.greekairsoft.gr/manuals/l...9&Section_ID=1
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Old April 10th, 2013, 04:16   #9
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THanks benny I think that's the video I was using for a step by step. I think what's causing this is that little spring that goes around the trigger. It's in the hole but not around the trigger. So the trigger is almost always engaged.
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Old April 10th, 2013, 17:33   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nichtessen View Post
Cyma AKM full metal/wood. Gearbox is full metal nothing plastic which I think means V3
Aside from cheap electric pistols and Wal-Mart clear special guns, most gearboxes versions are made of metal. Version 1, 2, 6... doesn't matter. Full metal doesn't mean everything in the gearbox is metal. Usually it means everything that generally should be metal, is. I say generally because as your setup changes, the parts that need to be metal change.

These commonly metal parts include the gearbox shell, the gears, the bushings (although many times these are plastic), the trigger, the anti-reversal latch, and the spring guide (also sometimes plastic instead).

Yours will probably have a number plastic/composite components such as the tappet plate, piston (most of the time), piston head (sometimes metal), cylinder head (sometimes metal), and the nozzle.

I could go into more detail but I think you get the idea.

I am confused as to which spring you are talking about.

This one?

Or this one pictured in the bottom left?


If it is the second one, that spring is very important as it pulls back on the trigger sled and disengages it from the trigger contacts. Without it, your trigger will likely get lodged between the contacts on the first pull of the trigger (or sooner) and provide continuous power to the motor. A.K.A. FULL AUTO DEATH MODE

Happy tinkering!
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Last edited by Anthology; April 10th, 2013 at 17:36.. Reason: Spring info
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Old April 10th, 2013, 19:47   #11
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THe one in the first picture, the trigger spring. So the trigger goes back into place each time it is pulled. Spent an hour cleaning the gear box and lubing it today before work. Took it fully apart and put everything back into place one part at a time. Made sure everything was inplace as per a picture and a video and this time went I went to do it. Everything went back together smoothly!

The other issue I was having with it firing on safety mode was because I hadn't put the selector switch fully back into place yet on the outside. So nothing was there to stop the trigger pulls.

Happy to say tho gearbox and the back half of the gun is back together and worknig correctly. When I get home I'll put it back fully together and test fire it. Tho I don't know how much the spring will change it.

Put in a spring that should change it too under 400 from 350-380 they said. But it's about one inch longer then the one I took out :/ Is it just because it's been decompressed more?

THanks for the help again Benny and Anthology.
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Old April 10th, 2013, 20:24   #12
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Different springs will have different lengths. It doesn't correlate to power.
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Old April 11th, 2013, 11:58   #13
nichtessen
 
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Got it back together just set it into place and fired it a couple times. It worked perfect for all of 10-20 shots then stoped firing. Re-opened it up to see the spring on the trigger connector to fire had come off. I think it came off because I had it upside down. Now it's back to trying to put it back together again.

Trail and error only way to learn.
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Old April 11th, 2013, 13:36   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nichtessen View Post
Got it back together just set it into place and fired it a couple times. It worked perfect for all of 10-20 shots then stoped firing. Re-opened it up to see the spring on the trigger connector to fire had come off. I think it came off because I had it upside down. Now it's back to trying to put it back together again.

Trail and error only way to learn.
And double checking everything. Do not rush. I did once and broke the plastic piece that covers the sector gear behind the trigger.

As for the spring length, the spring is probably not wound as tight than the stock one and/or made of a thinner, less resistant metal. This is how it can be longer but produces less force.
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Old April 11th, 2013, 14:01   #15
nichtessen
 
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Yea going to double/triple check everything, and slowly put it back together. FInd out how it goes when I get home from work today. Thanks Anthology
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