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Old March 27th, 2011, 20:43   #16
Morfiuss
 
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Originally Posted by venture View Post
i recommend everyone using nimh or nicad to switch to lipo. if your iq tests below 85 then maybe stick with nimh or nicad. otherwise just keep the voltages in range and balance charge and you are good to go with more power AND less weight.
Haha. Iq test below 85. Thanks all make me feel confident now and very happy with the thought of running almost any stock I want. Now just gotta get a lipo.
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Old March 27th, 2011, 20:50   #17
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It's also expensive to make the switch, there's really no point in running LiPo unless your running a MOSFET switch.
Why get a battery that's 20% better when for less than the cost of the charger alone you can get 20% better performance out of your current system?
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i never understood why the oil refinery had a brothel... i never see them at the refineries i work at this is bull!
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Old March 27th, 2011, 21:18   #18
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I have both rear wiring and am switching to Lipo so i can use whatever stocks i want..
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Old March 28th, 2011, 01:08   #19
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Rear Wired
ABSOLUTELY NO Visible Wiring, all internal routing... 11.1v Lipo AND wiring is in the buffer tube.
Yes, she's a work in progress, thats Elcan Spectre 4x replica, Quiksilver suppressor, I already have a bipod.
And yes, the CTR stock closes all the way, I just like how it looks fully extended.
The pic is shady I know, but it gets the point across. (Its an iPhone 3g for frock's sake!)
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File Type: jpg Airsoft AEG Lucille.JPG (619.0 KB, 41 views)
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Old March 28th, 2011, 05:59   #20
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Rear wired, its easier I had a front one with a peq last time it was really clean looking but taking it apart is a bitch. Now I have a crane stock with a 2000 mah nimh. Although I have the charger/balancer to support a lipo and pretty sure the internals Of my current setup are built for lipo use Im still staying away from Lipo.

There is a reason why Liposacks were made. Look em up so you would know what it means.  One less thing to worry about. Remember electronics occasionally fails, fans die and FETs fry.
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Old December 8th, 2011, 23:20   #21
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Sorry for the necro post but I thought it seemed fitting. I am currently running an M4 with a front wired 11.1v lipo. The gun is second hand to me and I have fried 2 switches in the two games I have had it out. I have a MOSFET installed but I think there was something wrong with the way it was wired (there was a wire from the battery connecting directly to the switch which I believe is wrong).

I am considering down grading to a 7.4 buffer tube lipo or a crane stock NiMH. If I were to go the buffer tube route would I need to replace my buffer tube? I am aware that there are some after market tubes that have a slightly larger diameter but I dont know if it is necessary.
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Old December 8th, 2011, 23:40   #22
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Originally Posted by Noob7_0 View Post
Sorry for the necro post but I thought it seemed fitting. I am currently running an M4 with a front wired 11.1v lipo. The gun is second hand to me and I have fried 2 switches in the two games I have had it out. I have a MOSFET installed but I think there was something wrong with the way it was wired (there was a wire from the battery connecting directly to the switch which I believe is wrong).

I am considering down grading to a 7.4 buffer tube lipo or a crane stock NiMH. If I were to go the buffer tube route would I need to replace my buffer tube? I am aware that there are some after market tubes that have a slightly larger diameter but I dont know if it is necessary.
Definitely go with the buffer tube LiPo. It will open all sorts of options and LiPos have a lot of nice qualities in general.

For size and fitment, you should be ok as long as you use a small stick-type 7.4, like the G&P 1000mAh 7.4V LiPo (for example -- there are a couple others out there that fit this profile). It fits in some really small places, I have not yet seen a buffer tube that it didn't fit into. A teammate of mine has managed to fit the 1200mAh G&P stick into his buffer tube on his G&P CQB MOE, so there's definitely some room in these buffer tubes.

Side note, the G&P stick is small enough that I've managed to cram it into a KAC PDW handguard (albeit after some modifcations). Try to spot the Deans-wired 1000mAh battery!

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Old December 9th, 2011, 03:48   #23
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Originally Posted by MaciekA View Post
Side note, the G&P stick is small enough that I've managed to cram it into a KAC PDW handguard (albeit after some modifcations). Try to spot the Deans-wired 1000mAh battery!

Holy crap! No need for a PEQ box then eh? I'm totally sold on the PDW now....

@Noob:

As for the buffer tube there are 2 types. "Mil spec" and "Commercial spec". Milspec is smaller in diameter while commercial spec is larger in diameter. Googling it milspec is 1.148" dia. while commercial is 1.168" dia. In your case a firefox 7.4V "Short Stick" will work (tested in my G&P M4 buffer tube which I believe to be milspec):

http://airsoftgear.ca/index.php?main...roducts_id=683

Either that or you can try a 9.9V LiFePO4 battery like this one:

http://airsoftgear.ca/index.php?main...roducts_id=689

I honestly believe in the LiFe battery, mainly because it can take a bit more abuse than a standard LiPo (it'll probably still catch fire if you stab it with a knife but is less susceptible to undervolting and balance issues) and it's "easier" on the internals of your gun compared to an 11.1V so no more burnt trigger contacts for you. It hasn't gained much traction in the RC world and they're lightyears ahead of us but I think for most airsofters that LiFe is the way to go especially if you're prone to abusing your batteries.
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Old December 9th, 2011, 04:34   #24
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First things first, get your MOSFET wired properly. If your burning trigger switches with a MOSFET switch, something is definitely not right

Use 2a of this diagram for simple switches
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i never understood why the oil refinery had a brothel... i never see them at the refineries i work at this is bull!
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Old December 9th, 2011, 07:32   #25
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Originally Posted by The Chad View Post
Rear, battery can be anything you want.

Attachment 23186
You can tape any battery you want to the front of your gun too. But I prefer rear since I can get the performance I desire from my AEG with a 11.1v cranestock lipo which coincidentally fits in cranestocks very well without being an eyesore.
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Old December 9th, 2011, 07:53   #26
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Originally Posted by Exhopek View Post
There is a reason why Liposacks were made. Look em up so you would know what it means.  One less thing to worry about. Remember electronics occasionally fails, fans die and FETs fry.
AATV vs. LiPo Battery - YouTube
Lipos are batteries, not volatile ticking time bombs. Sure there's always some story about how a lipo just randomly caught on fire and exploded and thus unsafe but ALL batteries can be susceptible to this. I treat my lipos the same way i treat my NiMHs, with care and common sense. If you're incompetent enough to overcharge/discharge your lipo or constantly abuse them, then I can assure you that you will get exploded batteries regardless of the type. Like one of the previous posters said, lipos are great to use if you're not retarded.
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Old December 9th, 2011, 19:48   #27
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Thanks for the input guys it is greatly appreciated.

I will look into the batteries suggested I would like to just confirm the size of my buffer tube however I dont have an accurate measuring device at home so that might wait a few days.

@ Cactus - After review of the diagram my wiring was different. My positive feeder from the battery was sharing the same contact point on the switch as the wire from the MOSFET. Is this the cause of the short? How would it be different if the positive feeder is connected to the motor side of the switch as shown (obviously because the diagram says so but and understanding goes a long way)?
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Old December 9th, 2011, 23:04   #28
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If the MOSFET and battery lead are on the same post, and your motor is on the opposite post, then you still have 100% current going through the trigger contacts

You don't want your motor current going through your trigger switch, so the positive from the battery and from the motor must be on the same post, then it doesn't go through the switch. Your MOSFET lead is on the other side of your trigger contact.

Then your negative battery lead goes to the MOSFET switch, and from the MOSFET to the motor.

How this thing works is that your MOSFET is your switch that controls the power going to the motor, so 100% current goes through the MOSFET. And your trigger contacts simply tell the MOSFET switch when to open and close. The big difference is that your trigger contacts are running high voltage, almost no amperage (so no frying chunks out of the contacts), and your MOSFET is running high voltage, full amperage.

Your gun was wired in the normal fashion, but with a MOSFET lead on one side of your switch, so when you pulled the trigger, all your motor current went through your MOSFET AND your trigger contacts at the same time. So it wasn't doing anything at all other than being in the way.
Once you have it wired up properly, you should be able to hear a noticeable difference in your rate of fire, and you'll never burn out your trigger contacts ever again
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i never understood why the oil refinery had a brothel... i never see them at the refineries i work at this is bull!
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Old December 10th, 2011, 21:50   #29
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Originally Posted by L473ncy View Post
Holy crap! No need for a PEQ box then eh? I'm totally sold on the PDW now....
And here she is charging



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