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Need some help estimating range.

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Old January 3rd, 2011, 00:59   #16
CDN_Stalker
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Ya, it is. I typically just run it full hop up (screws out) and go for the heaviest ammo I can get a flat trajectory out of. Guarder clear rubber, set on stun, 0.36g Bastards flying out at around 300fps seems to be my magic combination.
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Old January 3rd, 2011, 03:21   #17
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The 650mm barrel will reduce your accuracy, 610 is the max efficient barrel on the standard cylinders, you need a bore up for 650
AND, I can personally attest to the fact that a 430mm barrel and 650mm barrel have absolutely ZERO freaking difference in range or accuracy.
As long as the bore is consistent, it's a good barrel no matter what length it is.
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Old January 3rd, 2011, 03:56   #18
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Originally Posted by CDN_Stalker View Post
I typically just run it full hop up (screws out) and go for the heaviest ammo I can get a flat trajectory out of.
That actually a really great idea! I would love to give that a try next time I'm out on a field.


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you need a bore up for 650
I didn't know they made a special cylinder for bolt action. I always thought that only affects AEGs, not BA... Damn... Anyone want a 650mm AEG barrel? haha.....


Oh boy! All these tips are a real eye opener! Thanks a lot!

Last edited by highny; January 3rd, 2011 at 04:02..
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Old January 3rd, 2011, 12:32   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by highny View Post
That actually a really great idea! I would love to give that a try next time I'm out on a field.




I didn't know they made a special cylinder for bolt action. I always thought that only affects AEGs, not BA... Damn... Anyone want a 650mm AEG barrel? haha.....


Oh boy! All these tips are a real eye opener! Thanks a lot!
It affects anything that has a cylinder, piston and barrel. A no brainer actually

Gas is unaffected though.
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Old January 3rd, 2011, 17:07   #20
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CRAP! So that means I won't be able to use that 650mm inner barrel! Gees, there goes $80...
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Old January 3rd, 2011, 17:15   #21
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Originally Posted by highny View Post
CRAP! So that means I won't be able to use that 650mm inner barrel! Gees, there goes $80...
Spend another $8 and you can recover your $80 investment.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en

BTW, what rifle platform did you buy anyways? I seem to recall the CA M24, but has been a while. If so, cut it down to 515mm and you are golden.

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Old January 3rd, 2011, 17:27   #22
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Originally Posted by CDN_Stalker View Post
Spend another $8 and you can recover your $80 investment.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en

BTW, what rifle platform did you buy anyways? I seem to recall the CA M24, but has been a while. If so, cut it down to 515mm and you are golden.
I'm running a Well L96. I was told that the cylinder to inner barrel length only effects AEG as BA don't have full auto there won't be any air draw back(forgot the proper term) before the BB is out of the inner barrel.
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Old January 3rd, 2011, 17:48   #23
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I think the term you're looking for is "Barrel suck effect". Think about it though, there's only so much air the piston can push the BB so you're not really using the piston effectively if it's not a bore up (at least in theory/my mind). Remember, there's no replacement for displacement. It doesn't only work for car engines it works for anything with a piston, a 1.3 Litre I4 engine probably will never get as much power as a 3.0 Litre I6 (that is unless a shitload of things are done to it like porting, balancing, breathing mods, stage 3 turbo, etc. but even then.....).

Also if you decide to cut the barrel I believe you have to do something special with it, I forget the name of it but basically it involves jamming in a "cone" shaped thing into the end of the cut side of the barrel to make sure that the tube hasn't bent in on itself.
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Old January 3rd, 2011, 19:19   #24
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Also if you decide to cut the barrel I believe you have to do something special with it, I forget the name of it but basically it involves jamming in a "cone" shaped thing into the end of the cut side of the barrel to make sure that the tube hasn't bent in on itself.
It's called "crowning"
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Old January 3rd, 2011, 19:39   #25
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Countersinking or deburring is preferable
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Old January 3rd, 2011, 19:51   #26
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Barrel suck involves any projectile moving down a barrel propelled by air. It involves the lower amount of air from the cylinder not being able to equal or excede the volume of the barrel. So it doesn't matter if it's one shot per minute or 800, barrel suck occurs due to the barrel volume being much higher than the cylinder volume. It doesn't come from the piston moving backwards, it comes from the vacuum created when air volume behind a moving BB excedes available air volume from the cylinder.

And yes, deburring, crowning, etc. needs to be done on the barrel if you cut it, you can put the hop up end into a drill to spin it and use a small fine file or large drill bit to do it cleanly.

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Old January 12th, 2011, 16:20   #27
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To the OP: I was looking for these after you asked your question and was finally able to find it:

http://www.vendian.org/mncharity/dir3/anglechart/

http://www.vendian.org/mncharity/dir3/anglecard/

hope they help. Second link is the better of the two.
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