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KWA Cansoft G36C

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Old April 4th, 2010, 02:13   #1
Indianajohns
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KWA Cansoft G36C

I got this gun in December 09. I run an Intellect 10.8v 2000mAH battery in it and used the CAS white 0.20g BBs at first but I have switched over to Excel .25g Bio BBs.

Pros:
- High ROF
- Accurate out of the box, much tighter spread than G&G guns (Even the M16 RAS advanced) because of the superior hop up quality and the 6.05mm bore inner barrel.
- Compression is consistent.
- Fully ambidexterous.
- Lots of rails for optics/accesories
- Sturdy V3 gearbox
- EXTREMELY simple breakdown
- Parts easy to find
- Folding stock is nice for storage/transport
- Comfortable to hold. Some M4/16s have a sharp corner on the grip that hurts your hand. This does not.
- Super easy to maneuver.
- Lots of room for a huge battery. And easy to put in and take out.
- The rail is nice and high so with a red dot sight I can easily use this gun with a paintball mask.
- The fact that it's not a metal body drops the price. It's the quality of a full metal KWA M4 with a massively smaller price tag.
- You look like Gerard Butler in Gamer the second you pick the gun up. Ladies dig it.

Cons:
- Common glitch for V3 mechbox where the trigger glitches in semi.
- Broken tappet plate. The stock KWA one blows.
- Cylinder head has fantastic compression but SUCKS. The stock piston head breaks. It's made from a two piece mold and half of it shears off. This is only a $20 fix but highly annoying and KWA really needs to remedy this.
- The clear receiver and magwell are weak. I've broken 2 of the stock magwells. First one was from over tightening the body pin, second was from it hitting a wooden fence. The clear receiver has cracked simply from day to day use, this however hasn't effected performance in any way and can be covered up with some black paint.
- Magazines are hard to find and expensive. As well as finding vests with mag pouches that will fit them. Usually a double stack M4 pouch will only hold one G36 mag.
- The short barrel makes it so this gun won't be as accurate as say an M16 with the same barrel/hop/compression system.

Neutral:
- High FPS (chrono'd with 0.20g BBs at ~385 +/- 10 FPS) Is good for outdoors games but much too hot for most indoor, QCB courses. Which is funny since it's the G36C which is designed for closer quarters.
- Get an M4 Magwell adaptor. You will love your gun even more.

Overall, this gun has had a few issues, when the cylinder head breaks your gun is done until you can get it fixed. It is however, only around $20 for a new cylinder head depending on what model you get. It's got pretty awesome range as well.

Verdict: I really like this gun. Despite a few issues it is really effective on the field. I would recommend it.




Last edited by Indianajohns; May 22nd, 2010 at 15:08..
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Old April 4th, 2010, 09:44   #2
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Can you elaborate on the "Common glitch for V3 mechbox where the trigger glitches in semi"?

I just ask because most of the time I see a trigger "glitching" in semi is because of an improper trigger pull rather than design.
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Old April 4th, 2010, 11:05   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalnaren View Post
Can you elaborate on the "Common glitch for V3 mechbox where the trigger glitches in semi"?

I just ask because most of the time I see a trigger "glitching" in semi is because of an improper trigger pull rather than design.
I usually just blame you when mine doesn't work

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Old April 4th, 2010, 11:13   #4
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Haha.. fair enough.

Since I switched to a 9.6v in mine the trigger has yet to "glitch".
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Old April 4th, 2010, 16:15   #5
Indianajohns
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Well, from my understanding just V3 trigger glitchieness is pretty common in general. But what it's done is that when I first got it, it would be shooting semi and then decide it wanted to go full auto for a few seconds. No big deal. Put the gun on auto and let out a 2 second or so burst and it usually went back to normal.

The other thing was that it just doesn't like going to semi auto. I have to go to full auto and then back to semi. No big deal though. At first I thought it was that I had spun the trigger gears off their timing when I put it back together but I fixed that as best I could and it still doesn't work quite right. Just a little nuisance. I don't usually use semi auto anyways.
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Old April 4th, 2010, 19:06   #6
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Thats interesting.. I actually encounter that more on a V2 than a V3.

The problem isn't related to the trigger though, that's something up with the selector assembly.
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Old May 22nd, 2010, 15:08   #7
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Updated a little bit, I've had more experience with it so I made a few minor changes to the review.
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Old May 30th, 2010, 21:21   #8
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Originally Posted by Indianajohns View Post
Updated a little bit, I've had more experience with it so I made a few minor changes to the review.
My friend bought this gun recently and gamed it yesterday for the first time 1k rounds so far still running great i'll update though as well.
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Old May 30th, 2010, 21:22   #9
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Would you explain what you meant by EXTREMELY simple breakdown? How difficult it is to remove the receiver for a paint job?
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Old May 30th, 2010, 22:57   #10
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1) Remove handguard pin and handguard.
2) Remove magwell pin & Magwell by holding in mag release and pivoting magwell down & forward.
3) Unplug internal wiring harness.
4) Remove 3 x #1 Phillips screws and nuts that secure gas tube & barrel assembly.
5) Carefully slide gas tube & barrel assembly forward out of the gun.
6) Unlock and fold stock.
7) Remove 3mm hex screw from back of gun.
8) Pivot handgrip & mechbox assembly down and to the rear to remove from receiver.

Done.

Actual disassembly time, less than 5 minutes. About two if you do it as much as I do.
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Old May 31st, 2010, 01:58   #11
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I think in the third point of your cons section you mixed up cylinder and piston head.
I say this because I've seen a KWA G36C cansoft go down to this problem, and heard they were all doing that.
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Old May 31st, 2010, 14:58   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrath144 View Post
I think in the third point of your cons section you mixed up cylinder and piston head.
I say this because I've seen a KWA G36C cansoft go down to this problem, and heard they were all doing that.
I've replaced 6 of them this month alone. I even replaced one from a US KWA G36 that was purchased several years ago. Blew the entire cylinder head and tappet plate apart!
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Old June 21st, 2010, 13:07   #13
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I actually had the cylinder head break on mine too. my own fault you really have to use quality bb's with this thing, i was trying some bio bb's that looked good and ended up firing through a jam....whoooops
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Old July 26th, 2010, 21:57   #14
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G36c

I'm a little late to add my 2 cents here but I'm going to do it anyway.
I have this gun and I must say out of the box it fired over 400fps. I had to replace the piston and the piston head because it over powered the cheap plastic parts. The other problem was the body breaking down where the holes are for the pins and screws. Having fixed the internals this gun rocks, it's a great performing gun and your right it is very easy to strip it down. I really need to replace the body. Do any of you know if another companies body will fit?
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Old July 26th, 2010, 22:37   #15
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Yea, mine blew a cylinder head in less than 1,000 rounds. The body is showing signs of stress cracks around the pin holes. I have a Classic Army G36 body I'm tempted to see how well it fits.
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