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The "joys" (aka. trials) of being a gun doctor!

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Old April 17th, 2006, 11:57   #1
CDN_Stalker
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The "joys" (aka. trials) of being a gun doctor!

Ok, this is an anti-solution I'm posting here.

Just started working on a TM M4A1 that a team mate purchased cheap in non-working condition. No problem, he's buying parts for it and I can fix it no problem.

Here's the joy I encountered so far. In trying to get the mechbox out, I take the motor out and start unscrewing the grip to mechbox screws. Hmm, ok, they were loose. Kept unscrewing, never came out. Try to pull the grip off, it won't budge even a half millimeter. Take a look around the edge of the grip that meets up with the lower receiver, the freaking thing has been Krazy glue'd in place!!! Took a good hour of slicing and prying to get the grip off and the mechbox out. After the previous owner either tried to upgrade it or his "doctor" did, the screw's threads in the mechbox that hold the grip on stripped, grip was obviously loose, so he used a pile of instant glue on the mechbox, inside of the grip and lower receiver to "fix" the problem. NEVER DO THIS (pointing at noobs)!!!!! Luckily the new owner is buying a new grip and metal body, but still, is gonna be a bitch to get the stock nylon bevel gear bushings out of it's holes, and have to tap new threads in the mechbox to mount the new grip. Also have to take a chisel to the mechbox to strip away a large area of glue to clean it up.

Anyone else have "anti-solutions" they've experienced? I thought this funny, yet pathetic, enough to post on here. I've had other oddities on my bench before, but this is a new one I never would have even thought of!
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Old April 17th, 2006, 12:09   #2
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Even to me Crazy Glue just seems like a bad idea considering it tends to find its way everywhere.

And how did you learn gun doctoring ? I'm wondering because it might be good to know for when i get a gun. ( that and i've always treated my stuff well and always like to know how to treat/fix problems)
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Old April 17th, 2006, 12:28   #3
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The worst ones I've seen were from 6mm Imports... springs so strong they've been cut so they're barely long enough to keep the piston at battery, shims thrown in at random, shims completely ignored, many feet of wire clumped in the foregrip, then going outside the gun to a battery bag attached to the stock...

And hey, I've got my motor plate temporarily JB-Welded to the grip until I fix the screw holes. It's fine as long as it's in a spot that'll be easy to remove.
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Old April 17th, 2006, 13:26   #4
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first big mistake i made was with my TM SR-16. the rear body pin kept falling out, so i put a drop of crazy glue on it, hoping it would hold it to the body.
when i needed to take it apart, i punched the tab (with a punch) and it came out. unfourtunatly the left body tab and been glued to the lower body. i tried to get it apart with out breaking it, but the left tab got broken.

the other thing i did was some how striped the mechbox threads for the screws that hold the grip on (like stalker said). i tried to find longer, but similar screws in my dads jars and stuff. i found some longer similar ones and jamed them in there. it works now. i think the mech box was soft enough that i cut new threads. 8O
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Old April 17th, 2006, 14:37   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gato
Even to me Crazy Glue just seems like a bad idea considering it tends to find its way everywhere.

And how did you learn gun doctoring ? I'm wondering because it might be good to know for when i get a gun. ( that and i've always treated my stuff well and always like to know how to treat/fix problems)
Pretty much expereince and learning how things are supposed to work in relation to each other, then dealing with all kinds of issues that'd make a gun not work. Gets more interesting when dealing with other people's work (as inmy thread) but also when dealing with lots of different upgraded parts (like finding the new piston doesn't fit the rails of the reineforced mechbox, have to shave plastic from inside the grooves on the pistons to keep it from jamming up). That sort of thing. Learn the basics, then it's all about fine tuning and troubleshooting from there.

Only good place I've seen Krazy Glue work well is to glue the motor adjustment disk on a V2 mechbox to the backside of the motor, it's pointless to have that disk floating around, and since it LOVES to run off when you aren't expecting it to............ glue it and forget about it.
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Old April 17th, 2006, 14:47   #6
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hehe, thats pretty much how i learned.
i read a few guids and then took my mech box apart.
the school of hard knocks has alot of fun with my i think.
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Old April 17th, 2006, 14:51   #7
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Sometimes the best way to learn is from frustration!
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Old April 17th, 2006, 16:04   #8
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if you need some type of glue thats less than perminet try clear nail polish not crazy glue its cheap thread locker

lock tight red very strong break it or cut it out
" " blue temp hold can be removed
" " yellow electrical (nail polish is better)
" " orange resistant to oil
" " Black same as red but works if there is still oil present

Jb weld Ok the stuff is vodo Magic but its still not a great fix

Bottom line know what your about to do and remember that it works today but you may still want to take it apart again some day when it doesn't any more
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Old March 13th, 2007, 18:46   #9
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The worst moment I had with a friends V2 mechbox in his TM MP5 SD5 was when his tappet plate broke due to him unscrewing the mech box screws and not knowing what to expect when prying on it. I ended up melting it back together with a butane soldiering gun I have just so he could play the next day. It worked great for a week until he got the new Guarder one in and we still couldn't brake the solidered one. We sanded it and it looks new. Actually done this twice to be honest. Just don't want to be the laughing stock of the boards.

Don't put a Area 1000 Systema tappet in a TM V2 mechbox
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Old June 16th, 2007, 14:31   #10
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I recently worked on an AUG where the mechbox was held in by a saw blade wrapped in electrical tape and the mechbox wiring was hot glued together!
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Old June 17th, 2007, 02:50   #11
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My "Frakengun" C7A2 is wired with stereo wire...

No bullshit...
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Old June 17th, 2007, 03:04   #12
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I once took apart a jammed gearbox and found a mangled shim jammed between the sector and step gear. The stalled configuration resulted in a damaged step and sector gear and a stripped bevel gear. 3 gears, 1 loose shim...

I've taken apart leaky mags and found a desperation attempt to fix with window caulking. The telltale smell of vinegar and uncured clear goo. Caulking relies in evaporative curing so it's not suitable between impermeable mag walls. The schmoo had gotten everywhere in the mag and even contaminated the fire valve.
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Old June 17th, 2007, 10:40   #13
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Lol, best thing I've found to fix leaking GBB mags is the blue Automotive Gasket Sealer from Canadian Tire. I've fixed a good half dozen gas mags with the stuff, works like a charm.................. if you let it cure overnight before putting gas in! Made the mistake of putting gas in it a few hours after I did the fix on the last mag I did a couple months ago. Few weeks later my G19 was getting clear gummy crap on the inside of the slide, top of the mag, etc. Clean it all out, still getting problems with it shooting properly. A few replacement parts (and hours) from my parts gun, stil just not working right, so I decided to swab the barrel since GBBs love a clean barrel. Whaddaya know, there is a bunch of clear rubbery shit inside the barrel too! Frack! Swabs with lighter fluid clears it all out, quick soapy wash and oiling again, not only did it work for two mags worth (of gas) again, it was crazy accurate, best group l got was about 2" x 4" at 30ft!
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Old June 17th, 2007, 12:43   #14
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Oh yeah Stalker, I'm pretty sure theres some speaker wire in the handguard of the HK417 of mine you have. Wasn't me, got it that way.

I'm no gun doctor but got an MP5k used that wasn't working. Took the handguard off and someone had, instead of soldering the wire, taken a copper bar, drilled holes in both ends, and wrapped each piece of wire around one hole. Bandaided wiring job with no soldering required. Also found out the fuse holder had been glued together with no fuse in it, just to complete the connection (guess they couldn't find a fuse.) The exposed fuse holder and the copper bar would touch sometimes and there was charring on both.
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Old June 17th, 2007, 17:08   #15
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LMFAO!
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