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WIP: Upgrading Your Tokyo Marui Glock

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Old June 13th, 2012, 20:12   #31
Moonschlagen
 
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Well e-luder, I just installed the PGC metal slide and barrel as per your recommendations. Everything fit perfect except for the rear sight block which was a little bit of a bitch to get in. Gun cycles very well with the Guarder 150% recoil spring in there. Thanks for the guide again and keep 'er going!
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Old June 15th, 2012, 01:59   #32
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Put some shock buffers on that thing and you're ready to go go go!
Protect you're front screw post at all costs!!! 2 of my frames just obliterated my screw posts and I'm super angry right now...
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Old June 15th, 2012, 10:58   #33
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Originally Posted by e-luder View Post
Put some shock buffers on that thing and you're ready to go go go!
Protect you're front screw post at all costs!!! 2 of my frames just obliterated my screw posts and I'm super angry right now...
Where do you find shock buffers for these in Canada? I've only seen the Nine Ball recoil spring and buffer setup offered overseas. I remember airsoftparts.ca used to have them but they are gone now from the stock list.
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Old June 15th, 2012, 11:04   #34
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Seeing as how I may be purchasing a Glock as my first sidearm.... I'm really glad you made this write-up, it is incredibly useful!
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Old June 15th, 2012, 12:23   #35
e-luder
 
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Originally Posted by Moonschlagen View Post
Where do you find shock buffers for these in Canada? I've only seen the Nine Ball recoil spring and buffer setup offered overseas. I remember airsoftparts.ca used to have them but they are gone now from the stock list.
Havent seen one in Canada for a while. ehobby had some left. i just put in a a big prder for them and some orher parts.

The permanant fix is i to JB WEld you're inner front chassis to the frame. This should distribute the weight of the slide's force to the frame. the downside is tou wont be able to take your chasis off since it'll be 'welded' to the frame.
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Old June 23rd, 2012, 04:20   #36
golomons
 
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Thank you for this awesome guide! I am a complete noobie and I recently bought a TM Glock 18c after dreaming about it for a year. I had a few questions, and would really appreciate your responses.

1) How do I JR weld my front screw post (what is this.. sorry)?
2) How can I install shock buffers on my recoil spring? Where can I buy buffers?

I would like to keep my gun in stock condition (can't afford upgrades) but would like to use propane gas due to its cheaper price (i've used two bottles of duster gas but its really expensive and finding the 134a version is so hard now)

Your help is most appreciated! Thank you!
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Old June 23rd, 2012, 07:08   #37
MaybeStopCalling
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JB Weld. It's a metal based epoxy that has very good bonding properties for this sort of application. You can find it in the auto section of Canadian Tire or Walmart.
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Old June 23rd, 2012, 07:36   #38
e-luder
 
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Originally Posted by golomons View Post
Thank you for this awesome guide! I am a complete noobie and I recently bought a TM Glock 18c after dreaming about it for a year. I had a few questions, and would really appreciate your responses.

1) How do I JR weld my front screw post (what is this.. sorry)?
2) How can I install shock buffers on my recoil spring? Where can I buy buffers?

I would like to keep my gun in stock condition (can't afford upgrades) but would like to use propane gas due to its cheaper price (i've used two bottles of duster gas but its really expensive and finding the 134a version is so hard now)

Your help is most appreciated! Thank you!

1). JB Weld can be bought at your local hardware shop. It's pretty much like putty and glue mixed into one. lol.

You have to disassemble your front chasis (the part where the slide rails are) and putting the JB Welding under neath. This method was invented and popularized by another ASC User with the callsign RacingManiac. The idea is to offshoot the brute kinetic force of the slide movement directly onto the chassis, skipping the front screw all together. By JB Welding the frame to the chassis, it will remove the stress from the front screw itself since the chassis will no longer be held in place by that screw. I've experimented with other methods, but this method seems to work best. I'm still trying to get it right, TBH.

PLEASE NOTE THAT ONCE YOU JB WELD, YOU WILL PERMANENTLY AFFIX YOUR CHASIS TO YOUR FRAME. YOU WON'T BE ABLE TO TAKE THEM APART ONCE YOU LET THEM BOND TOGETHER.

2). Unfortunately, without the proper age verification, I can not disclose information regarding acquisition of anything airsoft. Forum rules...unless someone corrects me and in which case I will answer your question. In any case, a typical shock absorption system will look something like this that I custom made for a client of mine:

photo.JPG

The side effect of having shock buffers on a spring guide (depending on how much you put on) is that it will disengage your slide catch (short stroking). You'll have to count your shots or BB trace every shot to know when the magazine is empty.

This DOES NOT guarantee the safety of your screw post but it will pro long its longetivity and the longevity of the stock slide since the force of the slide movements will be dampened.

3). If you're running a stock form with green gas, I definitely suggest installing some shock buffers. You will break your front screw post running on Green Gas especially at the full-auto rate of fire of your G18c.

But you may want to consider switching your slide to a metal one just because if it's not that screw post that messes up, it's the slide.

If you want to run on stock without mods, keep using duster gas. I think The Source carries some cheap ones. Though it's been a while since I made a visit there. They're dodgy little bastards...
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Old June 24th, 2012, 02:57   #39
golomons
 
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Thank you so much for your response!

It clear now that I should upgrade my gun. The much cheaper cost of propane will save me money over time.

I've decided to purchase the following:
- PGC CNC Glock 18C Metal Slide Set
- FIREFLY Cylinder Valve
- Guarder Enhanced Recoil Spring Guide

If you don't mind, could you please answer a few more questions:

1) Are these upgrades (after JB welding) enough to use propane on my gun for a long time?

2) Are magazine high output valves necessary for the heavier slide? Is it possible for me to bore the original valve holes larger for similar results?

Thank you so much again for sharing your knowledge!
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Old June 24th, 2012, 07:21   #40
e-luder
 
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Originally Posted by golomons View Post
Thank you so much for your response!

It clear now that I should upgrade my gun. The much cheaper cost of propane will save me money over time.

I've decided to purchase the following:
- PGC CNC Glock 18C Metal Slide Set
- FIREFLY Cylinder Valve
- Guarder Enhanced Recoil Spring Guide

If you don't mind, could you please answer a few more questions:

1) Are these upgrades (after JB welding) enough to use propane on my gun for a long time?

2) Are magazine high output valves necessary for the heavier slide? Is it possible for me to bore the original valve holes larger for similar results?

Thank you so much again for sharing your knowledge!
1) Yes, these upgrades are sufficient for use with propane/green gas. The only thing I would add to your list is an enhanced loading nozzle. With a metal cylinder valve, the stock loading nozzle may crack under the pressure of the gas. The stock nozzle is designed for use with the weaker plastic valve. Using a metal may not necessarily break this stock nozzle but will speed up its deterioration. The Guarder replacement is a sufficient replacement and has less flex and generally lasts longer with the Firefly Rocket valve you plan on installing. That setup has lasted me more than a year and its still going strong. You may also want to invest in a few extra piston heads by Guarder as these are very brittle and tends to be the first to break.

2) High output blowoff valve are not really necessary to move your metal slide. What makes it 'move' is primarily the recoil spring and the airseals/airflow of your gun. You can put a stock recoil spring on metal slide with a high blowoff valve and the gun still wont have a nice crisp slide return than a stock valve with an upgraded recoil spring. Also, for maximum gas output with these blowoff valves, you'll need a stronger hammer spring to create an efficient valve strike.

Your PGC slide and barrel set is lightweight aluminum. It's even further lightened by having a ported topside. You won't need a upgrade your blowoff valve but you will need to, at least, put some buffers on your recoil spring guide especially if its a strengthened spring. Or if you don't mind a sluggish slide return, purchase the NineBall recoil spring and spring guide with the buffers already preinstalled. The spring is not strengthened and shock buffers short strokes your pistol. This is designed for use with the stock plastic slide that's why you won't get a nice slide return like you would on the stronger Guarder springs.

There is no way to check to status of that screw post once you JB Weld your chassis to your frame since it will bond the two together. How long your pistol will last depends solely on how vigilant you maintain it. Lubrication, cleaning, and spotting any performance drops and so on, all contribute to its longevity. Thus, I can not answer "how long your pistol will last" based on this philosophy but I can tell you that the set-up you described above will be enough for you to run your pistol on green gas.
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Last edited by e-luder; June 24th, 2012 at 07:49..
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Old July 2nd, 2012, 06:29   #41
Xtcy
 
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I've been a lurker all this time and found this guide very very useful!

I have just installed the following parts:

Gunsmodify Slide Kit (includes the tritium sight and matching tags)
Nineball Feather light BBU
Guarder Enhanced Loading Nozzle
Guarder Enhanced Piston Lid
Guarder Reinforced Frame
Nineball 6.03mm Tight Bore Barrel
A+ Studio Hopup Rubber

Now with the firefly rocket valve, I could only shoot 10 rounds with it so I changed it back to factory and now the gun is shooting efficiently like it used to.

Loving every moment of it at the moment and it really looks like a real 18C.
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Old July 5th, 2012, 01:10   #42
h33t
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Very nice write-up. Love the RPG style attributes!!
What he said. Love the way you simplified it using RPG style attributes.
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Old July 10th, 2012, 15:07   #43
al4milsim
 
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Does anyone know if RS sights fit on the New World Order Commemorative slide? Particularly TruGlo ones.
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Old July 11th, 2012, 00:50   #44
e-luder
 
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Does anyone know if RS sights fit on the New World Order Commemorative slide? Particularly TruGlo ones.
Don't think so.

The rear sight of the TM Glock needs to accommodate the screw that holds the BBU housing into place. Without the sight post, the screw has nothing to latch onto. Thus, it has a larger rear sight post than RS sights. That rear sight post also locks the BBU into place from the top side of the slide preventing the BBU from moving back and forth. The RS TruGlow, if I recall, can't accommodate that screw.

Unless, you modify it or something. AFAIK, KSC/KWA Glocks were the only ones that can take some RS parts. But I could be wrong.
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Old July 25th, 2012, 19:13   #45
hattrick
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After two grusome years I couldn't take NOT owning a glock anymore. Picked up my third (2 already long gone) tm glock 17. Reasonable price used with an authentic GL-10

Took out the BBU to install the nightsights.
Noticed there is only ONE nozzle return spring. (two groves provided)
I seem to recall there is supposed to be another.
Someone comfirm this for me please?
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