|May 23rd, 2012, 18:02||#1|
Adjustable FPS revolver modification (turotial)
Welcome one and all to my first turotial.
First off, I must point out that this modification was made on a WG 703. The principle is the same on Dan Wessons, which are rebrands of WinGuns. Can even work on Rugers, but not 100% sure.
Today, an issue most people face when they come across the decision of buying themselves a revolver. And that is, the FPS. We all know these revolvers mostly dish out around 450 FPS. So, instead of putting a scope on it, and having it count as a sniper, i'm going to show you how to modify your very own revolver, so the FPS output will be (you heard it right!) adjustable!
This is the key word that differenciates my tutorial from other workarounds.
Although MY VERSION is not 100% reversible, it is safer than most proceedures.
BUT! WAIT! With some creativity, you can copy my modification, and make it entirely reversible. It is all up to you. I did it this way because I don't intend to go back.
Other proceedures (although I very much DO NOT recommend them)
SUCH AS (But not limited to) : Modifying your shells, glueing a washer between the co2 release valve and it's pushing cylinder...
As you will see by reading on, it is possible to do it more than one way with some creativity. The principle stays the same.
LET'S RECAP :
The way i've done this, DOESN'T NECESSARILY HAVE TO BE THE WAY YOU DO IT. I was just lazy.
You can simply replace the metal box holding the spring guide by a metal cylinder (tubing, thank you Venture for the correct term!), with two metal plates on each end, with one drilled. AS LONG AS IT'S SHORTER THAN THE BOX.
Let's start by having your big beast in front of you.
DAT EDIT : OR YOU CAN TOTALLY WATCH MY DISASSEMBLY VIDEO ON YOUTOOB
Airsoft Therapy Ward - WG 703 Revolver DISASSEMBLY - YouTube
Assemble your tools. You're going to need, and only need, one star-head screwdriver. And maybe patience, if you're short on that. Don't worry, this is a piece of cake. It is maybe the simplest system ever to completely take apart, and put back together. So far.
1. Opening the sucker up.
Taking your revolver apart is one easy task. But as you go, NOTICE how things are put. If you are one to forget, take pictures! But in this case, i've taken plenty already.
Start by removing your handle, just slide it out, it'll come right out.
Then, remove the plastic cover that retains the handle. It is held in place by four small "hooks" that are part of the metal body. You might need to bend it just a tad to take them off the first time. Then, just slide it off.
Now you have your Co2 cartridge screw-up-to-pierce-it-and-shoot-pew-pew thing. Simply lift it, the entire small assembly will come out. Put that aside, and don't lose any part of it. (I have really NO idea what it's called).
Now, you're going to remove the barrel, just open it up, and push towards the front of the gun, it'll slide right out.
Alright, put those away. Now, as you can see here, there are FOUR screws you need to undo to gain access to the hammer spring. Don't worry, this isn't a gearbox, so nothing will pop out at your face and try to gouge you.
After removing the screws, simply lift it towards the front sight, then pull a little. First time might require some jiggling.
Put your screws with your plate, so not to lose them.
When opened, this is what it'll look like.
2. Inside the beast
Please note that most pictures have been taken AFTER i've done my modification. Watch closely the hammer spring. It rests on an O-ring on the spring guide.
DO NOT, and I mean, DO NOT, lose that damn o-ring. It prevents the spring from going haywire and up the guide.
Now, see how the guide goes into the metal box? This is the metal box we'll be cutting down in half. You can be more fancy, and replace it by a small cylinder with a hole cut in it, and be creative. The principle is the same. I'll be showing how I did it.
First off, I took the rectangular part, by taking out the hammer assembly. It's pretty straightforward, simply pull on the hammer, and the whole thing should just pop out. The trigger assembly might want to jump out with it's friend, so make sure you keep a finger on it.
3. Smithing it up
Now, bring the part to a metal saw, or any metal cutting tool you might have.
If you have no tools, this is where it gets complicated.
That is when you'll have to get creative. Note that your assembly (if applicable) will need to be SHORTER than the actual rectangle part. This is where we reduce our FPS.
Now, I put in a screw, and only a screw. I bought metric 5 bolts and screw, and unfortunately, the bolt was too big to fit in the factory hole that is PROVIDED. Shown here.
So I simply screwed that screw in, and it held, so I left it there. I'm guessing the right size should be a Metric 3.
Alright, back to the metal box. IF YOU HAVE THE PROPER TOOLS, read on.
What we need to do is cut the thing straight in half. Don't screw it up, or cut it too much. THE SIDE WITH THE HOLE SHOULD BE A TAD BIT LONGER THAN THE OTHER HALF.
The smaller half (with no hole), we're going to cut it even more, and grind it down, so it comes a single, well-grounded plate that will PUSH UP (or down) onto the other half. The square "sits" on a small "rail" at the bottom of the frame, so it slides.
See here how when the hammer is cocked, the spring guide pushes down into the box. This is why the hole half needs to be longer than the other one.
Note : You can see the screw is grinded down because the handle (that closes up on the handle frame) will have trouble fitting it's fat ass in there. THEREFORE, if you have handy a headless screw, it would be the best. Else, grind that screw real good so it doesn't interfere with handle operation.
After all is done and grinded, and you have the parts in your hands, insert your screw in the bottom (here), then put the plate in front of it, insert the spring guide into the hole half, and bam. It's done. Put the whole thing back together, and it's done!
Enjoy your adjustable FPS revolver!
Just as a last note, i've experienced FPS as low as 210, and as high as 450. I conclude that it is a very sensible screw, and that a quarter of a turn is around +40 FPS. I don't have a chrony at home, so i've measured it at a game.
I know, my pictures are horrible. The vomitory that is my cell's picture taking capabilities is an affront to photographs everywhere.
A small note on WinGun barrels : I had a slight difficulty putting back the barrel assembly back into it's hole, for some reason, and only went in when the plate was off. Don't know if it is a design flaw, or my own gun's flaw, just thought i'd point it out. Second time around didn't screw with me though.
Enormous note : I would feel bad not to give credit to our France Airsoft brothers, who gave me the idea to make this tutorial, and make my own version of their idea. Big thanks to them!
Now, for some legal crap.
I take no responsability on how you do your modifications. Once you start opening up your gun, it is entirely in your hands. I only serve an idea, a guide for such modifications.
If any of you who are in the 450 area, I can do it for you, minding a small fee, or a few beers
MORE REVOLVER RELATED NOTES
On my particular model, must be the way it is constructed, if you are too slow to pull the trigger, it clicks, but not all the way, therefore releasing less co2 even in single-fire mode (cocking hammer manually). If you are careful, you can get it to click, and it will stick in between being released and cocked. It's odd.
EDIT ON THIS : I've been led to believe that the double action... action... interferes with the single action, which is pulling the hammer backwards more, as it comes back when firing. Still don't know if this is a rampant issues with WG, or certain models, or just mine.
Double-action seems to reduce FPS by at least 50 FPS.
GIT GUD OR STAY PLEB
Last edited by Xedilian; August 4th, 2013 at 07:29..
|November 23rd, 2012, 12:31||#2|
Join Date: Nov 2012
woah, this is exactly what ive been looking for.
do you have any idea, if its possible to buy one of those "boxes" wich you cut in half?
I've been looking over by spare parts at home, and cant find anything like it. I mean it has to be the same size of the gun, or the spring wont be 100% fixed,
(i've got a dan wesson 6" silver 6mm bb gun that i want to shoot at 109/ms but want to be able to send it back to the factory in case something breakes or whatever)
|November 23rd, 2012, 13:32||#3|
I believe cutting the box voids your warranty.
OR you could just get that spare part from another revolver
Then you could swap back your modified box with the original one.
Dan Wesson = WinGun anyway hehe
GIT GUD OR STAY PLEB
|November 23rd, 2012, 16:09||#4|
Join Date: Jun 2005
10mm tubing. Aluminum, steel or copper. I did this mod myself and after much fussing with the lengths of the tube, etc. I ended up with adjustable fps from 130 - 400 fps.
Another problem: I set fps at approximately 350. When the gun is cocked (ie single action) I get 350 no problem. If I use double action, it shoots over 400 again.
Visit us at :www.ventureairsoft.ca
|November 23rd, 2012, 16:23||#5|
But ain't that odd. Should be the other way around. I know mine is made that way, and drops about 50 fps in double action. I think it has something to do with the plastic piece that does the contact with the hammer and the trigger. It's a poorly made mechanism, to be honest.
I've had issues with it even in single action, unless i slam the trigger to make sure it doesnt 'click' and slow down the hammer itself.
Maybe check that out. I know it's not easy doing so while it's open, i've tried
See if there's anything that's worn out in there that could enable it to go faster up than it should.
GIT GUD OR STAY PLEB
|November 24th, 2012, 09:00||#7|
Join Date: Jun 2005
Visit us at :www.ventureairsoft.ca