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Gear ratio to battery

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Old June 10th, 2018, 11:50   #1
BobbyDangerous
 
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Gear ratio to battery

So I was running 13:1 gears and they would run way too quick for an 11.1 and would lock up. With a 7.4 runs smoothly. I got rid of those gears and went with 100:300 helical torque gears for longevity and quieter gearbox. But the same thing is happening with the 11.1 and the 7.4. I tried a delayer chip as well. I did the AOE correction. Everything lines up perfect. I’m guessing this is cutoff lever issue. This is with a G&P gearbox so it is a contactless selector plate which strictly relies on cutoff lever to control the fire selection. Would it be worth it to go with a BTC or Titan? Or just keep it safe with the 7.4. I would like a quicker responce


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Old June 10th, 2018, 14:47   #2
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If the gears are locking up have you looked into why? Try swapping a lighter/heavier piston and/or spring.
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Old June 10th, 2018, 15:51   #3
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I have a Swiss cheese SHS. The probem is the cutoff lever sticking. Once I open the gun and push the selector plate it releases it. It’s weird. I’m pretty sure has to do with the G&P contactless selector and trigger causing it to over spin
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Old June 10th, 2018, 16:17   #4
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I had this problem with some off-brand gears. Remove the bevel and spur gear and run a few cycles with just the sector gear. If it locks up remove the cutoff lever and try it again. If it locks up after the cutoff lever is removed, there are a few possibilities.

Usually the problem will either be that you're SOL and the gear is misaligned/off axis and is now garbage, or that you've shimmed the sector gear too tight/low to the cutoff lever.

Only ONCE have i seen a case where a TM sector gear was causing the gearbox to lock up because the sector chip was too tall and interfered with the gearbox shell during rotation.
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Old June 10th, 2018, 17:45   #5
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Yeah but it doesn’t lock up with a 7.4. With an 11 it does. I think it’s just over spinning and the cutoff lever just can’t handle it. I’ll investigate further
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Old June 10th, 2018, 21:34   #6
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What kind of motor are you running?
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Old June 11th, 2018, 08:56   #7
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What kind of motor are you running?

SHS high torque
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Old June 14th, 2018, 01:23   #8
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I'm thinking that it might not have strong enough springs for the Tappet, the contact and the anti-reversal for the 11.1V battery: rapping the voltage 150% like that will also put 150% stress on your motor's coils. When you add in the resistance from the piston spring, it'll also add a few more percentages to that load. With parts spinning faster, the time for things to travel have to decrease too in order for them to work, but doing that will require more tension and more friction on your parts. Unless the thing has a heavy amount of grease on it, it may also cause faster wearing.

Personally, I'd either stick to the 7.4V LiPo or get one of those sector gears that pre-cocks your piston or partial cocks it so that the time you have pulling the trigger to when it fires feels much closer and it'll reset sooner from displaced reaction time.
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Old June 14th, 2018, 05:23   #9
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I had a delayer chip on it but was making it worse. I don’t have any grease on it either thank silicone oil. It’s relatively clean in the gearbox. The torque gears are helical like systema gears. I’ll stick with the 7 until I can get a better Fet I guess and I am able to program.
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Old June 15th, 2018, 10:53   #10
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silicone oil is not a good lubricant for sliding parts. It runs off too easily. So unless you're reapplying it every 3 games or so, just use a synthetic grease.
Not that gears really need lubrication, but the tappet works better with grease than oil.

You might need a new cutoff lever, G&P metal parts in general are not typically very good in terms of accuracy.
Make sure it moves freely, but doesn't wobble around. If it's TOO loose, it could be binding, so you'll have to shim it down.
If the gears are just overspinning to where the sector sits on the cutoff lever, you'll need a slightly slower motor like a tienly 25k, or just a different spring.

Most guns these days have mechanical selector plates. Technically, all the old guns did too. The contacts are just there to break the circuit when it's in safe. Every non-mosfet V2 platform relies on the cutoff lever for fire selection: It either bumps the trigger contacts off after one cycle, or it doesn't.

But, if you're looking for trigger response, titan or btc would be the way to go anyway.
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Old June 15th, 2018, 12:09   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderCactus View Post
silicone oil is not a good lubricant for sliding parts. It runs off too easily. So unless you're reapplying it every 3 games or so, just use a synthetic grease.
Not that gears really need lubrication, but the tappet works better with grease than oil.

You might need a new cutoff lever, G&P metal parts in general are not typically very good in terms of accuracy.
Make sure it moves freely, but doesn't wobble around. If it's TOO loose, it could be binding, so you'll have to shim it down.
If the gears are just overspinning to where the sector sits on the cutoff lever, you'll need a slightly slower motor like a tienly 25k, or just a different spring.

Most guns these days have mechanical selector plates. Technically, all the old guns did too. The contacts are just there to break the circuit when it's in safe. Every non-mosfet V2 platform relies on the cutoff lever for fire selection: It either bumps the trigger contacts off after one cycle, or it doesn't.

But, if you're looking for trigger response, titan or btc would be the way to go anyway.

Yeah I replaced the cutoff lever with a steel one because the G&P one was broke when I had 13:1 gears in it. Iíll look at the motor you mentioned. Im most likely gonna get a titan v2
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