I won't be completing my review today as I only received it july 2nd. Stay tuned for further updates.
- Jing gong M16A4 WITHOUT orange flash hider;
- 8.4v 1500mah NiCD battery, large connector;
- Orange plastic muzzle comdon;
- 300bbs metal high-cap mag;
- Cleaning/Unjamming rod;
- M16 manual (engrish /chinese);
- Hop-up and motor plate adjustment tools;
- 200 crappy 0.20g BBs;
- Euro charger
In stock form, it's shooting 349-350fps steady in 10 shots, with 0.25g, so converted to joules and joules to 0.20g it's 390-391fps
! Even if it's stated 330-340fps with 0.20g on the box...
BATTERY AND PERFORMANCE
The 8.4v 1500mah NiCD
is punching pretty well. Nice ROF (calculated at 720-780rpm with a microphone and a WaveEditor)
and fast trigger response. The difference between this one and one 8.4v 3500mah NiMH with deans is noticeable. I got 840rpm.
It also tells me it has a pretty good motor to pull EASILY
a 390fps spring. (we will see it in few days).
Now, let's talk about motor and mechbox wind-up sound. The motor is as quiet as a fine adjusted Marui. But the thing I hear the most is the piston head punching
on the cylinder head. Punching is a right word. I also feel it in the stock. It woulb be a good idea to insulate the beginning of the stock. This sound is pretty as lound as the Sentinel's M16a2 review. Putting a silent head set is recommended as you could break-up your mechbox....It's shooting 390fps with a marui clone piston head!!!!
It's a little less heavy as I thought. Compared to my (was mine) metal G3-sg1, maybe 1 pound less. Will be better with a metal body. Weight is pretty balanced front and rear. Stated 3350g, so 3.35kg, 7.4 pounds.
RANGE AND GROUPING
The range is about 1-2 metres more a m4a1 with a tightbore. The grouping is pretty bad as we can get some bbs falling 50% off the regular stance and some are way to high. A bucket change is needed and a 509mm tightbore is a must.
Not creaking at all. maybe a small play on the handguard (1/16 or less). The side rail covers are a little loosen but the bottom and top covers are fixed.??? Plastic body is pretty strong and nice finish on it. Plastic stock is looking cheap, pretty light weight but solid. The front rails are made with extra light-weight alu. As light as I thought at first sight they were plastic. Black coating on rails is not bad.
The cocking rack bolt is well made. Metal and stiff. Bolt door open as we pull the rack. Rear sight adjustment is also pretty well made, all metal and accurate (height and sides). Plastic carry handle but metal rails on the top of the body (A4 version).
HIGH-CAP MAG AND FEEDING
Metal made, light-weight. Good finish. Feeds pretty fine but 4 bbs remains in hop-up when mag is empty. Lows or Mids would reduce remaining bbs in hop-up from 4-5 to 2-3. (Will check metal King Arms lows fitting when I'll receive them). Mag insert easily in mag well and no play at all.
DEEP IN THE MECHBOX
To be continued...
As well as other Tokyo Marui clones, there's plenty of parts available, from cheapo to more valuable of this JG M16A4. What I would recommend (if you want to upgrade it, it's not necessary), is :
- droping a 509mm lenght thightbore;
- better hop-up bucket;
- improved piston with head and cylinder head according with quality cylinder;
- bearing spring guide;
- For metal bushings, I'll check the mechbox and take pictures.
For the M16 cylinder kit and spring guide, I would recommend the Guarder brand, Deep Fire or Guarder for the 509mm thightbore (6.04mm dia and smaller, use quality BBs
). Changing the gears is not necessary in my opinion, but you may keep a spare gear set near you if you don't take care your Jing Gong. This may change or not in the long term test.
If you don't have some more cash or don't want to put more money on it, I would recommend to downgrade the spring to 350fps and bellow. It's my opinion, I prefer to stay safe and more chances
it lasts longer.
The thing is IF you pu all these together, the m16a4 will probably
(as I'll receive some parts later this week) overpass the 400fps field limits. So you'll probably needs to downgrade the spring. From the end of the week, I'll test a prometheus ms110sp spring that would be your best bet in my opinion.
This review will be updated regularly as I use it, so stay tuned!