That would be the best solution.
Your gun is always going to joule creep up... it will never go down.
For example, my g36 creeps. It does 380 with a .2 which is 1.42 or something like that.
It does 305-310, which is 1.46 or whatever.
You're always going to get the higher joule reading from the heavier ammo. It will never work the other way around, so your velocity with a .2 almost becomes irrelevant because it will be well under 400 in those kinds of setups.
In a graph you'd expect the J to be a constant flat line as you go through the weights of the BBs, with J creep you're going to get a / bias, so if the heaviest weight is still under 1.48J your lowest weight is going to be well below.
I doubt you'd ever see a \ bias graph where the left would be over 1.48J and the heavier weight would be well below. That would probably indicate some sort of major compression failure or bleeding of your air charge somewhere. At least, I have not observed one come through my hands, built by me or handed to me that way. So I can't say I've observed it happening.
Also it becomes harder to fool the chrono with joule creep and adjusting your hopup. More hop which slows lighter bbs down actually has the reverse effect on a well sealed joule creep setup... the pressure builds more, the acceleration is faster in the same amount of distance, you get more joules when you dial up the hop. I've tested this with my g36 on my chrono. It oddly builds more fps the higher I dial the hop and then eventually it will just compression jam and not shoot.
In reality I think it would probably make most sense to chrono a game organizer provided high and a low weight to be on the safe side.
at 1.5 J there's almost no need to be shooting heavier than .32 or .36 I've yet to try .36s but 300fps with a .32 is plenty slow enough for me. lol.
I futz with V2s, V3s and V6s. I could be wrong... but probably, most likely not, as far as I know.
Last edited by lurkingknight; September 13th, 2014 at 00:34..