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Old January 3rd, 2012, 08:59   #12
MaciekA's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Portland, Oregon, USA
Originally Posted by ThunderCactus View Post
More importantly, figure out what you did wrong before you break another motor lol
Follow ThunderCactus's advice, it's really important cause you'll never actually need to hammer your motor in, that's just a sign you've caught an end of the motor on something

Originally Posted by ThunderCactus View Post
fire the gun, and tighten by 1/6 of a turn at a time until it stops making that whiny gear clacking noise. If you hear a high pitch squeal, you've gone too far, back it off a bit.
After Yogurting two G&P pinion gears using this method, I don't recommend it anymore. You never know precisely what result you're getting. The way I do it now is to take the "empty" half of the gearbox shell and to stage the bevel gear in there (fat side down), attach the pistol grip to the shell half, put the motor grip in and adjust the height of the motor and the bevel gear (with shims) until the contact is perfect. Perfect means that you can press the motor in until the pinion is past the outer (fat part) diameter of the bevel and it doesn't "disturb" the bevel's axial tilt by pushing it down, and adding height to the bevel until it does disturb it, then backing off (and testing).

This has given me some amazing (and very quiet!) results, the exception being when the pistol grip doesn't make a flush connection to the gearbox after the lower receiver is involved, in which case, you guessed it, I do crazy stuff like this:

(The pistol grip is attached in this pic and I'm about to put the motor in to test the shimming + motor height adjustment meshing combo. This method is a ton of work but gets really perfect results).

I should really get around to writing a more in-depth post about my experiences with this method and its potential pitfalls..
"Mah check"

Now you know

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