Just want to add, no matter how good the paint is, it's the prep that makes a paint-job.
First of all, the surface must be conditioned, for the paint / primer to mechanically grip. Shiney surfaces must be "keyed-up" (tooth added, via abrasives). Sand papers, abrasive pads, etc.
Second, these guns are usually laced with silicone lubricants. These must be totally removed," for the paint to stick. Dish detergent for plastics that are solvent based, thinners, reducers, acetones, etc. for metals, and fully cross-linked or thermal-based plastics.
With a good prep, any paint, even the low partical / solvent evapourant paints will work.
Always, ALWAYS test your paint system / method, on a sample part!